Dash Lights / Instrument Cluster
#1
Track Day
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Car is new to me, no manual. It is now driving after sitting for 14 years. I have moved on to try to tackle other issues with my car like the dash lights. Lights do not come on behind the speedo and tach. It seems that all warning lights and such come on. I am having a problem with power which I am pretty sure I need a new battery and alternator, but thats another problem. I cannot seem to find the dimmer switch? Also is there a fuse that I might need to replace to get these working?
#2
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Glad to see it back on the road, 14 years sitting is long time!
I would replace every fuse on the panel.
I assume you know where the fuse panel is?
Here is a link to a chart, pick your model year on the top:
https://www.928gt.com/t-8788fuse.aspx
Dimmer is on a wheel, underside of dash on your left I believe.
Grope around or just stick your head under there, you will see it.
What kind of power problems? Charging? Have you put your multi meter on the batt to see if it holds charge and accepts charge from the ALT?
I would replace every fuse on the panel.
I assume you know where the fuse panel is?
Here is a link to a chart, pick your model year on the top:
https://www.928gt.com/t-8788fuse.aspx
Dimmer is on a wheel, underside of dash on your left I believe.
Grope around or just stick your head under there, you will see it.
What kind of power problems? Charging? Have you put your multi meter on the batt to see if it holds charge and accepts charge from the ALT?
Last edited by sjfarbs; 11-08-2008 at 08:56 PM. Reason: spelling, duh
#3
Track Day
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I believe the battery is not getting charged. I use a portable battery pack to jump it and just let it run for a while. Then maybe 10 minutes later you can hear it start dying and just shuts off. Only fuse on that panel I have changed so far has been the fuel pump relay. I don't have a multi meter, is there another way to check it?
#4
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I'd start by cleaning all the ground points and cleaning all of the fuses and replacing the fuses. My car had been neglected and not driven much for about 3-5 years when I got it and cleaning all of the electrical connections helped a lot. I can't even imagine what kind of corrosion must be going on if it's been sitting for 14.
Buying a cheap digital meter will help you a lot in diagnosing and solving the problems you're bound to encounter.
Buying a cheap digital meter will help you a lot in diagnosing and solving the problems you're bound to encounter.
#5
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Hey bro if YOU want to fix your car YOUR gonna need a bunch of tools, and a set of workshop manuals. At this point a muti meter will cost a lot less than a new battery or alternator.
B4 you start replacing parts by guessing.................... if you dont want to spring for the multi then remove both of these parts and take them to an auto supply store they can usually test the batt and alt................But really, come on here if you want to fix your car your gonna have to buy a bunch of tools, and a multi meter is a prime tool for a car that has lots of elex systems
B4 you start replacing parts by guessing.................... if you dont want to spring for the multi then remove both of these parts and take them to an auto supply store they can usually test the batt and alt................But really, come on here if you want to fix your car your gonna have to buy a bunch of tools, and a multi meter is a prime tool for a car that has lots of elex systems
#6
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Good advise from Merlin and the Devil.
You need a multi meter, digital. Go to Harbor Freight or even Walmart and pick one up, $20 should get you there and you will be using it over and over again. This will allow you to test the batt and ALT without pulling either from the car.
FUSES!!!!! I would pull them and change them, also make sure there is no corrosion on the fuse holders and elec panel. If so, clean it! Also, always a good idea to disconnect the batt when working on the fuse/relay panel. Behind the tool kit in the hatch, if facing the hatch, just left of the latch you will see a black ground strap, disconnect it. This is also 1 of the ground points to clean.
New Visitor Thread, post #33. This will get you started on cleaning the grounds. It is a must.
The problem you are posting about in this thread sounds like an easy one to chase, also very inexpensive!!! Fuses, maybe .50 ea, cleaning the grounds----free, just labor.
I would get on it, Sunday is a good day for that project!
You need a multi meter, digital. Go to Harbor Freight or even Walmart and pick one up, $20 should get you there and you will be using it over and over again. This will allow you to test the batt and ALT without pulling either from the car.
FUSES!!!!! I would pull them and change them, also make sure there is no corrosion on the fuse holders and elec panel. If so, clean it! Also, always a good idea to disconnect the batt when working on the fuse/relay panel. Behind the tool kit in the hatch, if facing the hatch, just left of the latch you will see a black ground strap, disconnect it. This is also 1 of the ground points to clean.
New Visitor Thread, post #33. This will get you started on cleaning the grounds. It is a must.
The problem you are posting about in this thread sounds like an easy one to chase, also very inexpensive!!! Fuses, maybe .50 ea, cleaning the grounds----free, just labor.
I would get on it, Sunday is a good day for that project!
#7
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If you are going to the trouble of replacing all the fuses take some extra time and buy the good brass ones not the aluminium ones. The aluminium ones just corrode and cause more problems then they are worth you will not save any money buying them you might have to go to a VW specialty shop to find the good brass or copper fuses.
paul with 4 79 928s
paul with 4 79 928s
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#8
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Agree with the others here - a multimeter is an invaluable tool to have, and you can get a useful one for like $15.
My guess on the dash lights is that the dimmer (black wheel sticking out under left side of pod) mechanism is shot after so many years. First, try turning the dimmer wheel and see if the pod lights come on at all. If not, remove the plastic cover piece (you got a screwdriver, right?! j/k...) and use a piece of wire to connect the two wires connecting to the dimmer mechanism (don't remove the dimmer yet). If the lights go on, get a new dimmer mechanism... $60 or so, and 10 minutes to replace.
Good luck!!!
My guess on the dash lights is that the dimmer (black wheel sticking out under left side of pod) mechanism is shot after so many years. First, try turning the dimmer wheel and see if the pod lights come on at all. If not, remove the plastic cover piece (you got a screwdriver, right?! j/k...) and use a piece of wire to connect the two wires connecting to the dimmer mechanism (don't remove the dimmer yet). If the lights go on, get a new dimmer mechanism... $60 or so, and 10 minutes to replace.
Good luck!!!
#9
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No hijack intended here, but..................
I just jumped in the 928 to pick up some pizza's for the family, and I noticed I have the dimmer wheel on the left, works great!!!
But I also have another wheel on the right side, not sure what it does??
Any body know, '84 model year US.
I just jumped in the 928 to pick up some pizza's for the family, and I noticed I have the dimmer wheel on the left, works great!!!
But I also have another wheel on the right side, not sure what it does??
Any body know, '84 model year US.
#10
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No hijack intended here, but..................
I just jumped in the 928 to pick up some pizza's for the family, and I noticed I have the dimmer wheel on the left, works great!!!
But I also have another wheel on the right side, not sure what it does??
Any body know, '84 model year US.
I just jumped in the 928 to pick up some pizza's for the family, and I noticed I have the dimmer wheel on the left, works great!!!
But I also have another wheel on the right side, not sure what it does??
Any body know, '84 model year US.
#11
Team Owner
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Angel is correct the wheel on the right side is for setting the interval of the delay when the wiper switch is placed in the intermittant detent.
Since we are talking about things under the pod, there are also 2 more switches ( they are round, push buttons smaller than a dime) on the left is a round switch, this is for resetting the trip odometer,
WARNING only puish this when the car is running BUT NOT moving, if its reset while the car is in motion this seems to be the thing that kills the odometer from working
On the right is for the intensive washer, pushing this one will activate the pump in the small resivour and also activate the wipers to a hi speed with about 4 passes on the windshield
Since we are talking about things under the pod, there are also 2 more switches ( they are round, push buttons smaller than a dime) on the left is a round switch, this is for resetting the trip odometer,
WARNING only puish this when the car is running BUT NOT moving, if its reset while the car is in motion this seems to be the thing that kills the odometer from working
On the right is for the intensive washer, pushing this one will activate the pump in the small resivour and also activate the wipers to a hi speed with about 4 passes on the windshield