Lizard928

Imre, I have never seen one even THINK about failing in this area. Is it possible that the casting could have been affected previously. I have done this several times without incident.

Mrmerlin

IMO, I think from looking at the mess thats going on with that engine he should invest in the updated parts, so they will last as long as the parts on the inside, at this point I can say.... I CANT see one thing that I would reuse on anybodys car......... Its like taking a used bandaid and sticking it back on a infected sore..
But then again I am pretty particular about how I fix my machines.............

As far as the idler bearing goes cruise down to harbor frieght they have sets of inexpensive pullers, it also looks like your gonna need one for the crank gear.
As long as we are talking about the crank gear put a flat edge on the teeth from front to back and see how much is worn down, this will let you know if it should be replaced, If you need or rather want to use the square tooth gears and the cams worn down I have a set of square tooth cam pulleys that will work for a while they are your if you want them

surfdog4

so do the replacment water pumps (even rebuilt ones) usually come with the boss for the pulley? Since this is the only one i've done i don't know what is "normal".

mrmerlin, you have a PM..

Mrmerlin

thye early pumps have the boss for the idler roller and the later pumps still have a threaded hole there but the boss is different as the later idler is held onto the tensioner support arm. Please do a search i think Dwayne has some pictures for this repair

surfdog4

I've got the John Kelly timing belt manual and it shows the pulley basically the same as what i have..the water pump came from 928 Specialists so i'll call them tomorrow and figure this out

Imo000

Anything is possible but the break looked clean and new so I would imagine that it snapped off all at once. I was very new to the 928s back then (’98) so I had no idea how much a replacement pump would have cost, so therefore took the existing pump to a welding shop and they welded/built up a new section for it, the of fit went to have the weld machined to a boss. The entire thing cost me $100 to repair (the pump was in good condition so it was worth saving). As bad as this sounds, the same pump is still on that car and the repair is still holding up like it didn’t back then.

Imo000

If the square toothed gears are not worn, they will be fine. It’s not the same as re installing worn out or failing parts. So I disagree on replacing then just for the sake of “upgrading”. I agree, that picture shows a lot of neglect but if the gears are fine, leave them be.

I have a used WP on my '85, going on almsot 10 years now. I checked it when the timinging belt needed replacing (tensioner bushings failed) and will check it again when the headgasket goes on it (later this winter). I'm a strong beleiver of "if it's not broken, don't fix it" but on the other hand, I do respect your oppinion never the less.

Jim bailey - 928 International

I have seen many pumps with the raised boss broken off...not sure how they did it but they can be broken.

Imo000

Do they usually come for the rust belt? Corrosion of dissimilar metals and the added salt in can cause the idlers to seize on. At least that’s my theory.

In my case the idler would not budge, no matter what, so since a gear puller didn’t really fit in there I decided to use a little prying ( I think it was a small pry bar or a fat flat head screwdriver). Didn’t really take that much pressure for it to snap either and it didn’t show any sign of bending either, it just snapped off in an instant.

surfdog4

Jim,
so the raised boss on the older pumps is part of the casting? If so i definitely have the wrong pump

surfdog4

OK..i found a puller at a local auto parts store that actually worked..if anyone wants to know, i had found it online as "Performance Products" Model W140. The arms got a little bent, but the pulley came off. Here's what i found...it sure looks like the boss that the pulley rides on is part of the casting...even if it isn't, i sure as heck could not get that thing off and re-use it..since there is NO part listing for that, I'm pretty sure it's part of the casting.


and a pic of the new pump..

the number stamped on the new pump is 928.106.122. still looking for a reference on that one..

SharkSkin

There are others here that can recite all the gory details -- they'll be along soon... but IIRC that replacement pump that you have uses a shoulder bolt and plastic bushings in place of the cast boss.

The WP is probably 928.106.015.22, the other one I see in PET is 928.106.015.09

Lizard928

Your replacement is the late pump, the early one does have the raised boss.

You can use the later pump but you will need either a Porkensioner, or an 86.5+ tensioner, pivot arm, bolt, and bearings.

Mrmerlin

and replacing all of the parts LIZ listed even with used will put you close to the price of the Porkensioner, your pump that you have can be used without any of those parts listed except for the porkensioner.
Otherwise you need to get a older version of the pump. If you do use the pump you have with a porkensioner you need to put a bolt into the hole with some sealant on it sometimes the bolt hole goes through to the block IE coolant side

tailpipe

I agree with ImoOOO if the old square toothed gears look fine use them they worked for fine 100 k they should be fine for more if your having issues with getting the right pump I had mine rebuilt here locally for less than $200 with better parts I'm just down the road from you. But definatly do all the seals and anything else that looks suspicious drop me pm if you need a hand I have done a few and i'm very close

paul with 4 79 928s