Just got the GT aligned this morning and wanted thoughts from the list. First, here's some particulars:

90GT
Stock D90's with Bridgestone Potenzas 225 front/245 rear, 36psi cold all around
Bilstein/Eibach
Ride height: approx 152MM front, 156MM rear, maybe a couple MM difference side to side
Car has not been corner balanced, but height adjustment collars are set evenly side to side

Regarding the attached specs, you can pretty much ignore the "before" specs as the previous alignment was performed prior to me raising the ride height significantly (particularly in front).

From earlier posts by Kibort and others, my goals were:

Front
Camber: -1.8 degrees
Caster: 4-5 degrees
Toe: 0

Rear
Camber: -1.5 degrees
Toe: Factory setting (IIRC, max .25 degrees in)

I was looking for a fairly aggressive street setup. The tech cautioned me about increased tire wear, but I only drive the car max 2,500 miles/year so wasn't too concerned.

With the exception of the front toe, I got pretty much what I asked for. The car is more sensitive to steering input now, like it's riding on more of an edge due to the additional negative camber. However, it still doesn't seem to have an aggressive turn in. No sense of really carving it up, still seems to want to go straight ahead rather than turn, relatively speaking.

I must admit I may have been spoiled by my previous 90GT which was equipped with Bridgestone SO2 Pole Positions, Devek HD front swaybar, and 928SP poly swaybar bushings on the front. That setup rocked.

Could this car benefit from getting the toe down to 0 degrees and the addition of poly swaybar bushings? (I doubt I can find another Devek bar)

Your thoughts/opinions please, and thanks!

 

A heavy front sway bar with stiff bushings will make a car understeer more. A stiffer rear bar will add oversteer. If you really want to increase turn in, run a little more toe out. I had mine set up at -0.3 degrees for a while. It was nearly undriveable on non-smooth roads though. If you take some castor out of it, the steering will lighten up as well.

 

you might have too much camber for an aggresive street machine. heck, im only at 1.8 degrees front and 2 degrees in the rear. one of the major factors is the toe in in the rear. with the weisach, as you turn in, the rear compression on the outside tire naturally toes in and fights the cars oversteer, or in otherwords, can fight car rotation. taking a little caster out could help as well. taking some toe in out of the front could help as well. .1 degree is a good starting point for the front and about .1 degrees in the rear.

I was 1/8th " toed out in front and it was chewing up the inside 1/4 of my tire. at 1/8 toed in , or near .1 degrees, its about right. I do a lot of hyway miles with race tires too,and it seems to be good for double duty. (race and street use)

 

Not sure where my ride heights are, but here are my alignment specs after Scott at Bob Moore set the ride height where he thinks it works best an then put his aggressive street alignment on the car...

Numbers are current and specified range
Front
Camber -0°40' -0°40' -0°20'
Caster 4°17' 4°00' 5°00'
Toe 0°06' 0°05' 0°10'

Rear
Camber -1°00' -0°50' -0°30'
Toe 0°12' 0°05' 0°15'

Do I need to get more aggressive somewhere?

My avatar picture is after the ride height and alignment.

 

So, the consensus so far seems to suggest I pull a little bit of everything out of the front, say I shoot for:

Front
Camber: -1.3 degrees
Caster: 4 degrees max
Toe: 0

In rear, maybe shoot for 0 toe as well. and leave the camber where it is or take a little out.

BTW, I'm running 36psi all around. I'll edit the OP to reflect this.

Hopefully Bill Ball, Dr. Bob, and some of the others will chime in as well. Thanks everyone for your responses so far.

RKD-if anything, I think I may have overshot for street use. If your GTS feels good, I'd leave it where it is.