Tom in Austin

So my dig dash proclaims every time I turn on the lights. I looked and one of the four taillights was indeed so dim it was barely visible. I pulled it out, rummaged through my drawer and found a clear bulb that was larger, but had the right base and fit in the socket fine. Turned the lights on and that spot is now brighly lit.

But ... the silly dash warning persists. Could Porsche have been so **** that the bulb control systems detects the new bulb is not the specified wattage? Or maybe just that it isn't same as other three? Does anyone know the correct bulb number for the (inner) taillight, so if I go to Pep Boys I can get the exact type that's specified (don't recall seeing bulb numbers in the owner's manual).

Lizard928

side lights are part of that circuit, as well the housings list what wattage should be in every spot.

Tom in Austin

Looking at some parts catalogs it seems the gas cylinders holding up the hood and rear hatch may be the same part? So since I bought new ones for the hood but need better ones in back for the hatch, I thought, hey, just swap em around and the hatch will stay up on its own!

Didn't work. With the new cylinders in the back, the hatch won't even begin to stay up on its own (the old ones from in back seem to have no trouble with the hood). I did notice their positions are reversed in terms of the rod being up in one application and down in the other.

So, do I actually need different cylinders for the hatch?

Tom in Austin

Odd, thought that last was a new post but appended to the tail lamp post ...

Lizard928

Tom, do NOT put the hatch shocks on the hood, you will warp your hood!

the hood shocks are around 40lbs, and the hatch are around 100lbs iirc

SharkSkin

I don't think you'll find the correct bulb at Pep Boys. You should change them all at the same time, as even the resistance between an old and a new bulb can trigger the warning. Also, IIRC the license plate lights may be monitored on that circuit as well.

sidehatch

I ruined the whole side of my car not knowing how to change the side marker

SeanR

Call Rog, he's got all of it in stock.

Did you get the door lock issue fixed?

sidehatch

How can i tell what shocks are on the hood they have the same blue label as the hatch ones?

sidehatch

What happened i killed it,didnt mean too.

Mrmerlin

to test for the correct hood/hatch shocks take the shock in one hand and try to press it into the ground if you press the shock holding it in one hand then the odds are good that its a hood shock.
OTOH if you have a hatch shock you will need 2 hands to hold it whilst you try to press it into the ground.

That said dont use hatch shocks on the hood, damage to the hood will occur, NOW if your hatch shocks are worn out and wont hold the hatch open it is possible to use the worn hatch shocks o0n the hood, BUT FIRST I would get a bathroom scale and try to compress the end into the scale if its more that 35 pounds then the shock is to strong

Alan

The license plate is not monitored - only the brakes & rear markers are (including rear side markers and central brake light if equipped) - and yes it does check for the correct wattage within limits.

You need a 4W/5W single filament bayonet style - (a BA15s type base) but the bulb type you need to match has a small glass capsule - and is called a 5007 type or equivalent - designations of 5W12 BA15S are acceptable equivalents.

You should be able to find 5007 or equivalents in basically any car parts store.

I recommend you replace them all at the same time - for the marker/brake combo you will need a 7225 type 21W/4W12 BAz15D base these are harder to find in the USA and 1157 21W/5W12 BAz15D bases should work as acceptable equivalents.

Alan

SharkSkin

OK Alan, the later cars must have easier-to-find bulbs. I tried Pep Boys and IIRC they could only provide equivalents for the side markers and brake lights. I'm sure that some have more selection than others too.

ROG100

My Hood shocks say 40Lb and my hatch shocks say 100Lbs and they are a steal at $12 each.

Tom in Austin

Thanks all!