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I'm sure you've already tackled this Malcolm but I've learned to check the cheap and easy fixes first. How are your hoses and clamps? They both have a finite life...especially the rubber.
Did that come out right?
Thx Mike...........the rad hoses and the rubber to the coolant tank were replaced when I did the tbelt. Roger will have to remind me, I don't keep all the old receipts but I believe all rubber is new but not the clamps I'll go around them and check.
I know there's an engine noise that wasn't there before; I'll also try the stethescope............-7C this morning so its near time for hibernation
Malcolm,
Hoses were supplied in August 2007.
Roger
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thx Roger................you got water pumps in stock?
I may give serious thought of hauling the engine; rod brgs, silicone sump gasket, valve cover gskts, cam chains and tensioner pads or get the spare motor Garth suggests.
What does the noise sound like? Squeel, grind, rub, fast tick, groan....? If the WP bearing took a dump, it would leak fluid down around the crank and onto the pan. Faulty hoses or clamps make no noises. However, fluid dripping on utility belts do. Of course, do not run the car anymore until you figure it out and fix.
Sorry to hear of this Malcolm, I hope you get it figured out and repaired in the least expensive way.
What does the noise sound like? Squeel, grind, rub, fast tick, groan....? If the WP bearing took a dump, it would leak fluid down around the crank and onto the pan. Faulty hoses or clamps make no noises. However, fluid dripping on utility belts do. Of course, do not run the car anymore until you figure it out and fix.
Sorry to hear of this Malcolm, I hope you get it figured out and repaired in the least expensive way.
thx Keith............it was my decision to not change the WP when I did the tbelt/porkentensioner last year; as mentioned its almost the end of the season so it could be worse and the car is home not stranded (my cup is half full )
The noise is a rub/ groan, more pronounced when cold...........perhaps the WP bearing. I'm quite positive its not a hose, there's no fluid on the belts or at either side of the car, dead centre. Its quite cold this morning so I'll wait a bit before starting and lift her up for a more indepth look.
thats usually not the issue, as i most always dont change the pump unless i feel some movement or its making noise like you suggest. (ive had as much bad luck with changing good pumps as i have with very old pumps.)
the noise is always more pronounced when cold and on start up . It will be an intermittant sound that sounds like a whinning, or belt squeeling sound.
mk
Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
thx Keith............it was my decision to not change the WP when I did the tbelt/porkentensioner last year; as mentioned its almost the end of the season so it could be worse and the car is home not stranded (my cup is half full )
The noise is a rub/ groan, more pronounced when cold...........perhaps the WP bearing. I'm quite positive its not a hose, there's no fluid on the belts or at either side of the car, dead centre. Its quite cold this morning so I'll wait a bit before starting and lift her up for a more indepth look.
Not much time today...........Thanksgiving and all that entails.
I did start the car and got it to full op. temp. with the rad. fans going....................NO leak but noise does seem prevalent.
Is it possible the pump seals itself but still 'groans'? If it is leaking can it be seen by taking off the passenger cam cover?
I had an old 85 BMW that did this, yes it was the pump. AND I ENDED UP WITH BENT VALVES WHEN IT CEASED TO TURN. like our 928's the water pump was also driven by the TB.
like our 928's the water pump was also driven by the TB.
This is what scares me..............the tbelt is new with Kens tensioner but the WP was left as it looked and felt good. The antifreeze is even the 'blue' Audi/Porsche stuff. The hoses are new, the clamps are tight............the bridge is tight from what I can see from the outside.
It seems the consensus is a bad WP bearing. Personally, I would park the car and not start it up until I tore it down and pulled the WP. Because of the impeller clearance to the water channel milled into the block, a WP bearing just completely giving out can potentially shread the channel causing more issues than you would want to deal with. You are lucky right now...take advantage of this and pull it apart and get that WP out of there to inspect and replace if you have to. You should be able to have the WP in your hands in less than 2 hours.
My old '86.5 made a wierd wurr-wurr noise at the front of the engine, which eventually got louder. After removing all the accessory belts, I finally determined it was the old rebuilt water pump (which I also didn't bother to replace when I did the TB).
IIRC, the old pump didn't have any play, but the pulley spun too quickly by hand with the timing belt removed.
I'm going in tomorrow regardless; can't take the chance although I do find it intersting from a tech perspective that it leaked enough to need fluid but its not leaking now.
Malcolm...If you need a hand I can drop by at the end of the month...Between work and a trip to NY that is the earliest available. If you're still considering pulling the motor I have everything you need.
Here's an update; verified with Roger that all hoses were replaced last summer but not the clamps. I went over all clamps and giving each a tweek and when doing so noticed that where the engine number is stamped below the upper rad hose was a very small film of antifreeze.
A thought; when I did the intake R&R I replaced the oil filler tube and cleaned out the engine castings and the LH side had some AF in it. Question is if the upper rad hose had a minor weep would it leak into the casting and eventually down the middle of the engine.............I still need to get the car in the air.
All this thinking doesn't explain the 'noise' that doesn't seem so loud today.
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