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Took delivery of my 89' s4

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Old 10-08-2008, 02:51 AM
  #31  
Bill Ball
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Classically cars with TBF run OK cold but will die when they warm up and are hard to restart, acting as if the battery is low, but that is just the starter struggling against the load from the failed bearing. The shop should be able to check for preload on the front flexplate that bows it forward and release it if found. Whether they find significant preload or not, it would be good to have them check crank endplay. The wear limit is 0.4mm total play. I'm not suggesting this to alarm you. You're no more likely to have TBF than me. I'm suggesting this because it is good practice to check the front flexplate periodically and the crank endplay at least once to establish a baseline.

There is no rubber gasket around the tailights. Water can get in the bulb housing, but it has drains as well. I did have some problems with water droplets condensing inside my tailights at one point but haven't in a long time.
Old 10-08-2008, 05:52 AM
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Code Option Description
C02 Equipped with catalytic converter
018 Sport steering wheel with elevated hub
139 Seat Heating - Left
158 Radio "Monterey" - 86 "Reno" - 87
220 Locking differential
340 Seat heating - Right
418 Protective side mouldings
513 Lumbar support - right seat
513 Driver's Seat Lumbar Support
570 High output air conditioner
586 Lumbar support - left seat
650 Sunroof
935 Seat cover rear RLL
980 Seat cover - Raff - leather
Old 10-08-2008, 07:55 AM
  #33  
Leon Speed
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Originally Posted by Charley B
Remember, 928 ownership is not for namby pamby's.
Damn, I'm screwed

Sidehatch (how did you come up with that name??), congratulations, welcome to the club. This car is just like a Ford It has a body, an engine, a drive train, suspension, wheels. Nothing mysterious.

Do as suggested:
1. Look for reflections in the oil on a piece of black card board.
2. Release the tension on the torque tube clamp.
3. Look for fireflies under the hood in the dark.
4. Check what the last time was when the oil filter, air filter, spark plugs were changed.

Come back and report to each point and people will guide you from there.

Have fun!!
Old 10-08-2008, 08:58 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Charley B
Metal shavings in the oil are often not very visible to the human eye. That's why Stan suggests some drops on a piece of black card board in the bright sunlight. You don't so much see the shavings as see the reflection of light off of them. You can also try a few drops on your index finger tip and then rub it with your thumb. Not as accurate but if you feel any grit you know you have a problem.
Originally Posted by sidehatch
Thanks but how can a car even drive roughly 16 miles if its thrust bearing failure?oh one other question if its timing belt failure the car wouldnt run at all rite?
my 89 TBF car ran fine till warm. then quit at red lights and cranked like it has a bad bettery. lets stop screwing around and get it checked. It takes less than an hour and will only cost you about $60.00.

I could also see the metal in the oil. but only after it was running for 5-10 min. the oil was metallic looking. like flowing metallic paint. Look 5K for the car. another 5K for an engine.. Still into an 89 at not a bad price.
Old 10-08-2008, 09:50 AM
  #35  
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Quiz time.

1. Do you have a decent amount of disposable income?
2. Do you have mechanical aptitude?

You should answer yes to at least one if not both of these questions to own a 928, IMHO.
Old 10-08-2008, 01:02 PM
  #36  
Jim bailey - 928 International
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Not that any of this applies to THIS CAR .........Cars with thrust bearing failure mimic idle stabilizer and starter problems. The car will stall at stop lights but restart . As it gets worse the starter motor labors to turn the engine. In the later phases , the engine may lock up when warm but cranks ,starts and runs when cold. Often people who sell such cars do NOT KNOW what is wrong, their "mechanics" do not know what is wrong. The car just stalls and leaves them stranded it is unreliable. They stop driving the car then finally dump the car because no one can "fix it" , used to be they were traded in at a dealer....now few dealers will put any money into a 928...
Old 10-08-2008, 01:26 PM
  #37  
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I hate to ask this question now since you are already on the car's title, but did you do a PPI?
Old 10-08-2008, 04:23 PM
  #38  
sjfarbs
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Originally Posted by cold_beer839
I hate to ask this question now since you are already on the car's title, but did you do a PPI?
No PPI from what I can tell from the earlier thread post. Paid $5k for the car.

Hatch..............

The best advice so far is to slow down and asses each issue one at a time.
Best to read through the new owner thread first.

Then, if need be, start a new thread to address each problem individually, I think you will get a lot further that way.

The gamble............
You purchased a 928 from at best a "shady" guy with multiple 928's in some warehouse in the city with no PPI and very little understanding of what to look for in a 928. You paid $5k, which would be a steal if the car was "right", but form your posts, it seems it may not be "right". So now you need to roll up your sleeves and dig in, and understand you may not have a daily driver until the work is done.

The good.........you got an S4 for $5k.


I am surprised that after all your time on the list, you did not opt to go after one of the many 928's being offered for sale here. Seeing as how there would be very little mystery about a car listed here by a 928 enthusiast. Oh well.

I live in Champaign not too far from you, PM me if you need any help and I will try and help you out if I am able.

Search is your friend!!! In fact may be your best friend. Use it.

Good luck.
Shawn
Old 10-08-2008, 07:36 PM
  #39  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by Aryan
Damn, I'm screwed

Sidehatch (how did you come up with that name??), congratulations, welcome to the club. This car is just like a Ford It has a body, an engine, a drive train, suspension, wheels. Nothing mysterious.

Do as suggested:
1. Look for reflections in the oil on a piece of black card board.
2. Release the tension on the torque tube clamp.
3. Look for fireflies under the hood in the dark.
4. Check what the last time was when the oil filter, air filter, spark plugs were changed.

Come back and report to each point and people will guide you from there.

Have fun!!
The name sidehatch came from a song from tenacious d, the songs called sex supreme lol
Old 10-08-2008, 07:37 PM
  #40  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Code Option Description
C02 Equipped with catalytic converter
018 Sport steering wheel with elevated hub
139 Seat Heating - Left
158 Radio "Monterey" - 86 "Reno" - 87
220 Locking differential
340 Seat heating - Right
418 Protective side mouldings
513 Lumbar support - right seat
513 Driver's Seat Lumbar Support
570 High output air conditioner
586 Lumbar support - left seat
650 Sunroof
935 Seat cover rear RLL
980 Seat cover - Raff - leather
thank you for that
Old 10-08-2008, 07:38 PM
  #41  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Classically cars with TBF run OK cold but will die when they warm up and are hard to restart, acting as if the battery is low, but that is just the starter struggling against the load from the failed bearing. The shop should be able to check for preload on the front flexplate that bows it forward and release it if found. Whether they find significant preload or not, it would be good to have them check crank endplay. The wear limit is 0.4mm total play. I'm not suggesting this to alarm you. You're no more likely to have TBF than me. I'm suggesting this because it is good practice to check the front flexplate periodically and the crank endplay at least once to establish a baseline.

There is no rubber gasket around the tailights. Water can get in the bulb housing, but it has drains as well. I did have some problems with water droplets condensing inside my tailights at one point but haven't in a long time.
I wished i lived by you id drop the car off their and give you 3000.00 to bring her back for me.thank you for this great advice
Old 10-08-2008, 07:40 PM
  #42  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by Shark Attack
my 89 TBF car ran fine till warm. then quit at red lights and cranked like it has a bad bettery. lets stop screwing around and get it checked. It takes less than an hour and will only cost you about $60.00.

I could also see the metal in the oil. but only after it was running for 5-10 min. the oil was metallic looking. like flowing metallic paint. Look 5K for the car. another 5K for an engine.. Still into an 89 at not a bad price.
Sammy i cant recall that much shavings in their,but car is going in tuesday to midwest eurosport all they do is work on porsche.
Old 10-08-2008, 07:42 PM
  #43  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Not that any of this applies to THIS CAR .........Cars with thrust bearing failure mimic idle stabilizer and starter problems. The car will stall at stop lights but restart . As it gets worse the starter motor labors to turn the engine. In the later phases , the engine may lock up when warm but cranks ,starts and runs when cold. Often people who sell such cars do NOT KNOW what is wrong, their "mechanics" do not know what is wrong. The car just stalls and leaves them stranded it is unreliable. They stop driving the car then finally dump the car because no one can "fix it" , used to be they were traded in at a dealer....now few dealers will put any money into a 928...
Theirs no way i have these symptoms,car is running on 4 cylinders i think, but i dont want to count her out yet.
Old 10-08-2008, 07:44 PM
  #44  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by cold_beer839
I hate to ask this question now since you are already on the car's title, but did you do a PPI?
No but im getting one this tuesday lol,if the engine is shot im gona have a online raffle on this forum and the winner can have the car im serious.
Old 10-08-2008, 07:45 PM
  #45  
sidehatch
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Originally Posted by sjfarbs
No PPI from what I can tell from the earlier thread post. Paid $5k for the car.

Hatch..............

The best advice so far is to slow down and asses each issue one at a time.
Best to read through the new owner thread first.

Then, if need be, start a new thread to address each problem individually, I think you will get a lot further that way.

The gamble............
You purchased a 928 from at best a "shady" guy with multiple 928's in some warehouse in the city with no PPI and very little understanding of what to look for in a 928. You paid $5k, which would be a steal if the car was "right", but form your posts, it seems it may not be "right". So now you need to roll up your sleeves and dig in, and understand you may not have a daily driver until the work is done.

The good.........you got an S4 for $5k.


I am surprised that after all your time on the list, you did not opt to go after one of the many 928's being offered for sale here. Seeing as how there would be very little mystery about a car listed here by a 928 enthusiast. Oh well.

I live in Champaign not too far from you, PM me if you need any help and I will try and help you out if I am able.

Search is your friend!!! In fact may be your best friend. Use it.

Good luck.
Shawn
thank you, champaign my car will never make it their lol


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