Who has a lift?
#76
Chronic Tool Dropper
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All the remaininig spring loading is pushing against that shock seals. They probably won't leak since thay are yours; my luck isn't so good. I think that the major issue for really longer-term (like all winter) storage is corrosion on the polished shafts of the shocks. Any pitting or flaking will trash the seals in a heartbeat, so better to keep the shocks at normal extension. I used to grease the exposed polished shaft surfaces when storing a car on stands, and put blocks under the suspensionso the suspension wasn't hanging from the shocks. Wheels/tires come off, get black-bagged and live under the stored car until they are needed. Keep in mind that the last car I winter-stored was a then-three year old 356SC cab. The last cars I long-term stored are still in long-term storage. One still has the original cosmoline coating on everything. The other has the mechanicals pickled, and the rest was sprayed thoroughly with marine preservative to fend off the corrosion devils. The scooters are preserved the same way. All the rubber bits will need likely to be replaced when they are brought out of storage, more for safety than any other reason. I have most of the rubber bike bits bagged in nitrogen, but no telling how well that will really help. The scooters that are on display tour are maintained in better-than-new condition and appearance, but the mechanicals are all pickled inside. Realistically, a month of 'storage' is nothing in the big picture. The two Lotus cars were built in 1964, and one has been in the original crate since then.
#77
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Bob,
While it is never recommended to NOT "lower to locks" I can say I have accidently left cars all the way up off the upper locks for weeks at a time. I also do this a lot when it is just me for the extra height since I am 6'2" plus boots. In the 6 years or so of daily use I have had mine, the cylinders have never leaked. One good safety feature that I think all of them have is that if it does start to go down it will catch on the closest mechanical locks. BUT even those few inches could mean an arm or worse.
On a related subject, NEVER bleed your cylinders with a car or weight on it, even up just a few inches. In my rush doing a routine bled check I did this and the second I turned the bleed screw it shot fluid all over the windshield of the car AND about 30 feet or more into the next room... GRRRRRR.
While it is never recommended to NOT "lower to locks" I can say I have accidently left cars all the way up off the upper locks for weeks at a time. I also do this a lot when it is just me for the extra height since I am 6'2" plus boots. In the 6 years or so of daily use I have had mine, the cylinders have never leaked. One good safety feature that I think all of them have is that if it does start to go down it will catch on the closest mechanical locks. BUT even those few inches could mean an arm or worse.
On a related subject, NEVER bleed your cylinders with a car or weight on it, even up just a few inches. In my rush doing a routine bled check I did this and the second I turned the bleed screw it shot fluid all over the windshield of the car AND about 30 feet or more into the next room... GRRRRRR.
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#78
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On a related subject, NEVER bleed your cylinders with a car or weight on it, even up just a few inches. In my rush doing a routine bled check I did this and the second I turned the bleed screw it shot fluid all over the windshield of the car AND about 30 feet or more into the next room... GRRRRRR.
#79
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You would win that bet. It all happened in a split second, because I was quick to turn the screw tight.
Funny thing is if Jeannie had been standing in the parts room she would have had an A/T fluid "skin conditioner" shower :-)
Funny thing is if Jeannie had been standing in the parts room she would have had an A/T fluid "skin conditioner" shower :-)
#80
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Dave, maybe a few plywood shims are needed under the lift legs....
Seriously though, we install heavy machinery regularly on studs, so the height and alignment with other equipment can be tweaked. Once the height and position are set, the pads are grouted with reinforced epoxy for final support. You can do this with a hot concrete mix too if you have to. This would take care of the height issue for you, assuming that the carriages would still go low enough to pick the car. If not, a few removable ramps would spot the car at whatever the needed height might be. I'm thinking two or three 2-by-whatevers sandwiched to make the needed extra height. Less chance of bumping yer noggin on the lift arms too.
The simple ramps would take care of another writer's problem with tall lift pads on his too-hevy-duty lift.
Seriously though, we install heavy machinery regularly on studs, so the height and alignment with other equipment can be tweaked. Once the height and position are set, the pads are grouted with reinforced epoxy for final support. You can do this with a hot concrete mix too if you have to. This would take care of the height issue for you, assuming that the carriages would still go low enough to pick the car. If not, a few removable ramps would spot the car at whatever the needed height might be. I'm thinking two or three 2-by-whatevers sandwiched to make the needed extra height. Less chance of bumping yer noggin on the lift arms too.
The simple ramps would take care of another writer's problem with tall lift pads on his too-hevy-duty lift.
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Bob,
Not really a big deal, there are just times when I want a little more height. I have various height riser plates for my lift but too lazy to change them out. Once you lift a 928 you can lower it back down (and as you know it will be higher than it was) and put a taller riser on it, usually not worth the hassle.
Ironically a year after I bought mine Rotary came out with an extended lift version that gives 3 more inches of lift with all other specs being the same. :-(
Hasn't bothered me enough to spring for new taller cylinders etc required for the upgrade.
I do agree about ramps working for the other lister, but that can become tiresome dealing with them and again gets back to floor obstacles.
Not really a big deal, there are just times when I want a little more height. I have various height riser plates for my lift but too lazy to change them out. Once you lift a 928 you can lower it back down (and as you know it will be higher than it was) and put a taller riser on it, usually not worth the hassle.
Ironically a year after I bought mine Rotary came out with an extended lift version that gives 3 more inches of lift with all other specs being the same. :-(
Hasn't bothered me enough to spring for new taller cylinders etc required for the upgrade.
I do agree about ramps working for the other lister, but that can become tiresome dealing with them and again gets back to floor obstacles.
#82
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It does not take much thin oil to make a huge mess.
I used to work at a Valvoline plant, I know spilled oil .
But on the plus side, I never had any of my tools rust while I was there.
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Bob,
I bought my first lift through a dealer, saved $ because I picked up myself; the second lift I purchased "through' BendPak -they arranged for the dealer - BendPak has a contract that prohibits them from selling lifts directly (must go through dealer); BendPak also has lift plates that permit use of floor jack to lift car and/or to use supports. I have both (made myself) and have never had a scare re: the car "falling off" the jacks stands or jack. I have removed the entire rear end (both wheels) while the car was on the jack stands/plates without concern (well, maybe a little concern). For parts BendPak will sell directly. I used my car trailer to pick up the lifts (not together obviously) - they are particularly heavy and stuck out quite a ways past the end of the trailer. We also used the trailer to pick up my buddy's asymetical 2 poster from BendPak he uses for his motorhome (much larger lift capacity). I simply couldn't fit a two poster in the garage so I had to make a 4 post lift work for me and they both work just fine. BendPak people are very nice and responsive and helpful; they even worked extra hard to make sure the lifts were properly and safetly resting on the trailer to take them home. Highly recommend them.
I bought my first lift through a dealer, saved $ because I picked up myself; the second lift I purchased "through' BendPak -they arranged for the dealer - BendPak has a contract that prohibits them from selling lifts directly (must go through dealer); BendPak also has lift plates that permit use of floor jack to lift car and/or to use supports. I have both (made myself) and have never had a scare re: the car "falling off" the jacks stands or jack. I have removed the entire rear end (both wheels) while the car was on the jack stands/plates without concern (well, maybe a little concern). For parts BendPak will sell directly. I used my car trailer to pick up the lifts (not together obviously) - they are particularly heavy and stuck out quite a ways past the end of the trailer. We also used the trailer to pick up my buddy's asymetical 2 poster from BendPak he uses for his motorhome (much larger lift capacity). I simply couldn't fit a two poster in the garage so I had to make a 4 post lift work for me and they both work just fine. BendPak people are very nice and responsive and helpful; they even worked extra hard to make sure the lifts were properly and safetly resting on the trailer to take them home. Highly recommend them.
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#86
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One of the regulars uses one of those in the SF Bay area and swears by it. I'm guessing that it really would take some getting used to. Maybe as a storage lift?? I could line up twice as many cars in the same garage floor space. With my luck though, the ground would move. Or one would go over center and knock the whole row down like dominos. Hello, Allstate?
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I have to say I'm jealous after seeing some of the lift setups you guys have. Would be so nice to be able to get under the car and work on it without crawling under. Would also be nice to have the extra storage space.