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My new (to me) '85 928 won't start :(

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Old 09-09-2008, 08:52 PM
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goffaramma
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Question My new (to me) '85 928 won't start :(

I've been driving my '85 almost every day since I got it about three weeks ago. It starts every time and runs beautifully. I LOVE it. But today when I went to drive it, I turned the key, the lights and gauges sprung to life, but nothing happened. It's as if the engine isn't there. There was no ticking or clicking or anything.

I tried searching for this problem on this board but didn't find anything. I apologize if I'm asking about a common problem, but I'm clueless. Does anyone have any idea what I can do?

Thanks!!
Dave
Old 09-09-2008, 08:58 PM
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DANdeMAN
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Well, you had a good run with it; so forget about the car and dump it.....:
Old 09-09-2008, 09:10 PM
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Leslie 928 S2
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Not a lot of information to go on in your post....Is it auto or manual?

Maybe it's the neutral safety switch? Or the starter switch on the clutch pedal? Starter selenoid? Ignition switch? Dead battery? Those are the things that have caused the problem you describe in our cars' experiences....

More info please!
Old 09-09-2008, 09:10 PM
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Leon Speed
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Silly suggestion: is the lever in P or N?
Old 09-09-2008, 09:37 PM
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blitz928
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Does, the car have an factory alarm?
Old 09-09-2008, 09:48 PM
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sidehatch
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that photo of joann is very classy with the 20's 30's theme, very well done, it gives just enough of sexieness without going overboard ,sorry im talking about rennlist calender in the above post
Old 09-09-2008, 10:04 PM
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sjfarbs
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Well, I am no expert................but I will be the first to say it:

relay, relay,relay
fuse,fuse,fuse

Here is a link:

https://www.928gt.com/t-8586fuse.aspx

Also sounds like possible alarm issue.

Good luck.........I am sure the experts will chime in shortly.
Old 09-09-2008, 10:26 PM
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90s2
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EXACT same thing happen to my also new to me S4...it was a relay
reach the relay box and push in and move about your relays..it did it for me
Old 09-09-2008, 10:35 PM
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sjfarbs
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Oh and just in case it needs to be said, fuse/relay panel is located on the passenger side front seat, peel back the carpet, find the long wood panel and pop open the cover..............

Also wise prior to pulling relays/fuses and general messing around by the fuse panel.................disconnect the battery ground!!!!
Rear hatch, behind tool panel................black battery strap will be found!!!!

Last edited by sjfarbs; 09-09-2008 at 10:37 PM. Reason: more info needed..........
Old 09-09-2008, 10:43 PM
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goffaramma
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Thanks! I thought it could be a relay issue. I'll check them tomorrow. The car is an auto, and it is in park, so I can rule out 'I'm an idiot' at this point... but we'll see...

The dash lights and gauges come to life when I turn the key, so it's not the battery.

Matt P. Mentioned the alarm. It does indeed have a factory alarm. Do you think it may be related to that? I've only heard it go off once when I opened the passenger door after locking the driver's door.

Any other ideas?
Thanks!!!
Dave
Old 09-10-2008, 12:46 AM
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Alan
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The alarm doesn't stop the starter - just the fuel pump, there is no fuse for the starter. Change the starter relay for another (horn). Move the trans selector a bit (wiggle) - there is a (park) transmission safety switch that disables the starter. Have you been working on anything (near the battery perhaps? or rear transmission/suspension?).

Alan
Old 09-10-2008, 07:10 AM
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medipedicman
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I would defer to Alan on all things electrical. That being said I will share a recent no start/charging issue. Replaced battery of unknown age late spring due to starting issues. Over the summer I was getting progressively slower cranks when starting. It still started, but it sounded tired. Then a couple of weeks ago --no start. **The battery had enough power to turn on lights and radio in the power on key postion, but not enough "cranking amps" to turn it over** OK, new battery , was fine, but now 4 months later a no start. Sounds like a charging issue and a need for a new alternator, right.?.? Well, sort of. Charging issue yes, alternator no. Car would jump easily from the front, but with the jumper cables attatched to the battery posts I was not getting enough power to start from back. Closer inspection revealed a cracked connector on my positive cable (the one that provides power to the car). So all this time my battery was fine, my alternator was fine but because of the cracked metal connector my battery could not send or recieve power in the way in which it was designed. $2.99 part-- problem solved--

Hope this helps

Last edited by medipedicman; 09-10-2008 at 07:11 AM. Reason: clarification
Old 09-10-2008, 11:33 AM
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First: Go to an auto parts store, Walmart, etc., and buy an electrical tester that looks like an old-fashioned icepick with a lighted clear handle and an attached wire and alligator clip. Required equipment for a 928 owner...

You didn't tell us wheter the car is auto or five speed - makes a difference. I will assume for the moment that it is an auto.

Some possibilities:
- The link between the ignition switch lock section and the electrical section can wear so that the electrical section switch doesn't get turned enough to make contact with the starter contacts.
- The starter relay is faulty.
- The neutral safety switch is faulty or maladjusted. (Autos only)
- There is a bad connection on the yellow wire that triggers the starter solenoid - the 14-pin connector near the jump start terminal (right fender panel) is the prime suspect.
- The starter solenoid (on the starter) is faulty.

Go to the Central Electric Panel (passenger toe-board). Find Relay XIV, the Starter Relay. Use a good flashlight - the relays are identified on the board - note the little pointer.

Look on the relay and carefully identify the terminal connections in the relay socket. These numbers are DIN standards, so get used to them.

- Connect your tester clip to a good ground - the connection with all of the brown wires near the panel is the best place. Check for 12 vdc on terminal 30. Must always be live.

- Check for 12 vdc on terminal 86 when you turn the ignition switch to the START position. If there is power here, the ignition switch is OK - go to the next step.

- Change the tester clip to the red 12 vdc connections on the panel. Touch the ground point to make sure that you have 12 vdc on the tester. Check for ground on terminal 85 in the relay socket. If there is no ground (the test light remains off), then the neutral safety switch is not made or is faulty. The switch is on the transmission where the shift cable attaches.

- Use a short piece of insulated wire to jump from terminal 30 (battery power) to terminal 87 (load) in the relay socket. If the starter operates, the relay is faulty. Swap it with the Defrost Relay until you can get a new one. If the starter doesn't operate with the jumper, reinstall the relay and go to the next step.

- Under the hood, find the jump start terminal on the right fender panel. Caution - this is a direct connection to the battery, and is always live! If the plastic box covering the connections is missing, you need to replace it. The cover keeps rain and wash water out of the connections, helping to prevent corrosion.

Very near the jump start terminal you will find a flat 14-pin electrical connector. The yellow wire in terminal 14 is the starter trigger wire. Carefully separate the connector. Caution! The wires can easily pop out of the connector, and getting them back in the right places can be a problem! Clean the connections. Use the short insulated jumper wire to connect the yellow wire that runs down to the starter to the jump start terminal. If the starter operates, the starter solenoid and starter are OK. Reconnect the 14-pin connector and try the starter.
Old 09-10-2008, 12:07 PM
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SteveG
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Wally is always on target and comprehensive. I would add, if you are removing a relay or doing anything to the 14-pin connector, disconnet the batt. Of course you can't check the voltages that way. But the relays can be a bitch to remove and you may find yourself swearing and contorting yourself til you learn the "circular" twist and pry method. Don't stick anything that conducts under a relay for prying.

Wally also has a description for a jumper made from 2 feet of zip cord with a simple on/off switch: you can turn the jumper on and off, which is invaluable if you are on the road and the FP relay dies (and you don't have a spare).
Old 09-10-2008, 08:18 PM
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goffaramma
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Awesome info! Thanks for all the feedback from everyone. This is why I want to make a documentary on the 928 and it's owners around the world. I will be doing this someday.... I just have to find the time...

Update:

ALL your feedback has helped. It seems it was a relay issue. I pulled XIV and IV... and a couple of others. Man, they are TOUGH to move. And then I just put them all back.... it started right up .

Of course I want to be more thorough, so I'm going to use Wally's advice and get familiar with the panel of fuses and relays and purchase the equipment he suggested (thanks again for that info Wally). Until I know for sure what happened, I can't feel comfortable.

Thanks again!
Dave


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