Oil pump removal ?
#2
Rennlist Member
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I rigged a puller. Piece of flat bar with a hole for the shaft, with a pair of screws threaded at the periphery, such that the screws wind down and press against the block. Pretty simple. Rig some rags / cushions underneath so that if it somehow drops the gear isnt scarred.
The body is a little thick all around where it contacts the block, and if it gets canted is hard to remove.
A search should come up with more ideas / discussion on it.
The body is a little thick all around where it contacts the block, and if it gets canted is hard to remove.
A search should come up with more ideas / discussion on it.
#3
Burning Brakes
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The trick is getting it back in. Just be sure to go back in straight and don't let the "O" ring roll or get pinched!
Also I read somewhere to use a little STP on the pump gears, I just used heavy wt. oil and it primed fine after sitting for a month.
There is a good write up somewhere that I used, but can't put my hands on it right now.
Good Luck
Also I read somewhere to use a little STP on the pump gears, I just used heavy wt. oil and it primed fine after sitting for a month.
There is a good write up somewhere that I used, but can't put my hands on it right now.
Good Luck
#4
Race Car
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There was a ton of heavy oil near the crank gear and near the top drivers side that went down the side, could have come from someone missing the oil filler. The oil residue was real thick and black and did not look fresh. The tensioner was empty which would account for a lot of it. I hate to start to replace seals if I don't have to. If I pressurize via the oil filler tube will any leaks be evident, the oil is drained and not sure if air would be the way to go. Won't pressurize it like our air compressor friend to 40 Lbs. I could not see any leaks once everything was cleaned up but thats understandable well because it's cleaned up.
I'm doing this a preventive measure do you think I can just re-bolt the oil pump back up and forget about it? Cam seals look fine so does the crank seal!
I'm doing this a preventive measure do you think I can just re-bolt the oil pump back up and forget about it? Cam seals look fine so does the crank seal!
#5
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I smacked the hell out of mine with a hammer, it fell right out. I knew it was bad though ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Next pump I simply tapped with a rubber mallet around the shaft to work it out. Going back in was a piece of cake. Just covered it in oil, including the seal.
What year car is this on? I found out the hard way there are a few different 928 pumps for the 16V cars.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...1&postcount=17
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Next pump I simply tapped with a rubber mallet around the shaft to work it out. Going back in was a piece of cake. Just covered it in oil, including the seal.
What year car is this on? I found out the hard way there are a few different 928 pumps for the 16V cars.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...1&postcount=17
#6
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Sounds like this engine is longing for maintenance.
Cam ears should come off and thick O-rings behind them plus, cam seal, and cam shaft O-rings be replaced. My leak occured behind the cam ear, but emerged near the crank and oil pump areas. Very hard to see the source to evaluate. Why not replace now while its down?
Oil pump should have big O-ring replaced and 3 blue seals replaced associated with the bolt holes.
Cam ears should come off and thick O-rings behind them plus, cam seal, and cam shaft O-rings be replaced. My leak occured behind the cam ear, but emerged near the crank and oil pump areas. Very hard to see the source to evaluate. Why not replace now while its down?
Oil pump should have big O-ring replaced and 3 blue seals replaced associated with the bolt holes.
#7
Race Car
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82
Humm you may have something there, The oil seems to becoming from the area you described, do I need to remove the cam covers. I ordered the seals for crank, cam and oil do I need something else? On my 86 I just replaced the cam seals.
Humm you may have something there, The oil seems to becoming from the area you described, do I need to remove the cam covers. I ordered the seals for crank, cam and oil do I need something else? On my 86 I just replaced the cam seals.
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#8
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Yes, I think you do.
Each cam has an O-ring that fits into the snout of the cam ear, which then fits over the cam shaft end. (Buy and extra or two, in case you have to put it on/off a few times like I did and score one of them). My O-rings were so hard they looked like carbon and had to be chipped-out with a tiny pick and hammer.
Behind each cover is one or two fat O rings that look like the AJ slicks on the back of an Aurora HO slotcar. Replaced mine and oil leak ceased.
Each cam has an O-ring that fits into the snout of the cam ear, which then fits over the cam shaft end. (Buy and extra or two, in case you have to put it on/off a few times like I did and score one of them). My O-rings were so hard they looked like carbon and had to be chipped-out with a tiny pick and hammer.
Behind each cover is one or two fat O rings that look like the AJ slicks on the back of an Aurora HO slotcar. Replaced mine and oil leak ceased.
#11
Race Car
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Manual says 0.08-0.12 MM what is this in real life; does it equal a wiggle; this is with a dry pump no oil.
I have a hard time believing looking at the pump that it would be real tight "anyone" !
I have a hard time believing looking at the pump that it would be real tight "anyone" !
#12
Team Owner
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biggest thing with the pump is that the ring gear be oriented the correct way as it will seize the pump both of the dot should face the block and the bevel on the ring gear should face the front of the car
#13
Race Car
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When I removed it I painted a dot on all parts for orientation, I find this very useful when taking on a large project. I'm am sure it's placement is correct and maybe over reacting to this wobble. Just looking at the gear arrangement and once it heats up and oil added I am hopeful it will be fine. I just don't recall it being loose before removal.