Dean_Fuller

When starting off from a stop turning left or right I hear a single pop sound...like something is loose. This sound happens when I'm into the turn maybe a second or two...NOT the second I'm rolling. I have checked the exhaust...its tight. Sound comes from underneath the rear of the car. Just started after I changed new wheels and tires. Any ideas as to what it may be??? Where to even start to look? Its just a single sound that does not repeat until the next stop and turn. Nothing like a CV joint. Any ideas would be appreciated.

tailpipe

check for a broken spring maybe?

mcholdfast

We can take a look at it on the lift at Peachstate Dyno Day. Were you able to schedule your time off to make it to the event?

Mrmerlin

you would do well to investigate the CV bolts to trans output shafts for proper torque and also check the rear axle center nut and the wheel lug nuts for proper torque 94 ft/lbs........from your description it could also be in the E brake system, or a sticking brake pad, But check the bolts first. Some more thoughts check the heat shields and the backing plates on the brakes

toofast928

Sway bar bushings. Bushings are loose/worn (see air gap between swaybar and bushing) or clamp is loose.

Dean_Fuller

Thanks guys...will check all of that.

Dean_Fuller

Still not sure...It may come down to late this week knowing for sure. That how things go when your self-employed....EVERY one is your boss.

jon928se

Check the camber and toe eccentrics. I had a random pop/clack/clunk noise - turned out the eccentrics werent tight enough and were slipping from one end of the slack to the other.

Daniel Dudley

Same here.

Dean_Fuller

Sound turned out to be from the front...not rear as I thought.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

Loose front wheel bearing. Replaced with new bearings and a new used lock bolt and all is quite on the western front....really!



First photo is the old lock nut. You can see the shinny area directly across from the gap where the load was applied. The nut would not even screw back on it was so distorted.

Second pic shows the inside wear on the front tires after 3 alignments....Maybe 3000 miles. Thought I would share the results in case others experience this in the future.

Some back ground... Checked all torqued bolts...after first alignment they too were loose. When asked how they torque alignment bolts at the shop....I was told they "just tighten them down. No measurement". GOOD GOD! These were about 50ft-lbs in stead of 88. Had them realign correctly at the proper specs. Their machine does not lift the suspension so that was not the problem. If the OS wheel bearing is loose...It makes sense to me that the tire would lean out under load and actually wobble with the correct maneuvers. I did a lot of reading and the "proper torque" on this U shaped nut can not be measured. The manual states to tighten until the thrust washer can barely be moved with a screw driver. WTF? How obscure is that??? In one write up the author states that is too loose and to go a tad farther when the washer can be moved.....This wheel nut is the oddest thing I have seen on this car yet. At any rate...its an area that looking at the design and specs...should be checked ever so often. Checking this would only take a few minutes. Tightening was done by loosening the hex bolt and tapping the nut with a flat screw driver and a ...hammer.

WallyP

The design goal for tapered wheel bearings is zero clearance and zero preload. Sounds as if you now have too much preload...

One way of installing these is to rotate the hub as you firmly tighten the nut. Stop rotating the hub, loosen the nut, then tighten it as much as you can with your fingers. Check for any free play, repeating the process if there is any detectable free play.

Dean_Fuller

After doing even MORE reading...I agree I might have this too tight. Just did this over the weekend and have driven maybe 50 miles total...do you think I can just repack them in the morning??? I have to be 400 miles away tomorrow night so I don't want to burn them up or ruin the races or spendal.......much less see a wheel fly off.

JHowell37

It takes a lot to ruin a spindle. I just replaced a wheel bearing last week. The bearing was really bad. You could hear it the moment you started moving the car. As for the races, those should be replaced when you replace the bearing.

WallyP

No need to repack - just pull the wheel and hub cover and readjust. Should only take a few minutes per side.

Dean_Fuller

POP IS BACK!!!!
One pop at start off straight ahead or turning now....and its popping one time at braking to a stop now as well.

Could this be the brake caliper moving????