jleidel

relay has been replaced, verified functional, new filter is ~12 hours old [both from Roger]. Will dig into the fuel rail here in a few... first, lunch.

Thanks Doc... I like the wheelies too. I can finally say "nanner, nanner" to the 911 blokes.

docmirror

Fool!

Hey, I coulda been right if it were a Euro, but sadly, I'm wrong - again.

This is me shutting up now.

Shark Attack

LOL. I thought the same thing. I think they may be those ones the 911 guys are always talking about, fuches or something like that. They look like old craigers from the 70's US muscle cars. I bet you get a free bowl of soup when you buy wheels like that..... They look good on his car though.

docmirror

Hey, Brad is a 911 squid and he's offered to help out. I'd go easy with the name calling. You're way ahead of me on the fuel stuff. Remember, the little ball in the end of the fule rail cap. Got yer fire extiguisher handy?

Roger has a ultrasonic cleaner, he may be able to salvage your injectors. Pulling the Bosch connector off the injectors is a hellish job. There's a little spring wire clip around it with a dab of glyptol holding it tight. Remove, or release the spring wire if you can't ge the connectors off the injectors.

One trick that most folks don't know about if you're going to try cleaning them manually is to make up a dummy injector elec connector. Just get two wires sticking out of the Bosch connector, and snap it on the injector. Make an adapter that will fit over the pintle cap, and onto the spritzer end of the carb cleaner. With a 12V car battery, attach one of the wires from the dummy connector to the negative of the battery. Have someone spritz into the pintle(inside) end of the injector while someone else touches the other end of the dummy connector to the positive of the battery. You'll feel the injector pulse, and if the carb cleaner adapter is good enough, you can force some cleaner back up the injector. This also checks the coil on the injector.

Lather rinse repeat, or just drop them in the ultrasonic bath and then try again.

jleidel

I just kid with the 911 guys. I'm actually quite impartial [an old british sportscar nut... turned 928-er]. Just had it running via Berryman's. Timing seems good, no knocks/missing under cold start. Fire extinguisher in hand, time for an injector bath.

hmmm... ultrasonic bath. I might need one of the those :-)

docmirror

We got some elec testing to do before going much further. Once you've got the connector apart, if you have a analog (needle) type meter we'll check for the injector pulses. If you have a digital meter, it's a hassle.

w3lfd

I would make sure you aren't chasing after ghosts on the fuel delivery end before going to a lot of trouble. I bought a 928 and it did not run but ran on ether, but it had a massive intake manifold leak.
Spraying starter fluid etc down it's throat is basically bringing your air/fuel ratio up to where it need sto be to run.

If your engine is getting a lot of "unmetered" air, it will not run / start. Check all of the spider rubber and the boot on the bottom of the spider, if they are dry / cracking at all they need replaced. You will also need to go over the vaccuum on the engine.

Dry, brittle vacuum lines = bad news.

w3lfd

When you say fires and runs, do you mean it runs until it sputters out of berryman's or it keeps on running (like, over a minute?)

docmirror

Lee, it's just running on the carb juice. We are testing compression and spark at this point. Now we'll be digging into the FI system once he comes back with results from delivery to the rails.

jleidel

ok... to answer all, i don't have a multimeter with a needle. Running with a digital version.
I pulled the incoming fuel line from the passenger fuel rail [cylinders 1-4], I started the engine [it instantly started due to the residual berryman's], and no fuel in the cup. When I say no fuel, I mean zero. Bone dry. Can I runs leads directly to the fuel pump terminals to see if I can force it to run? [eg, is it a 12v part?]

*Most* of the rubber is in decent shape under the hood. The manifold sleeve looks to be in good shape. Once I get time, I will be replacing all the vacuum lines with silicon lines.

jleidel

One more answer... w3lfd, it runs for well over a minute as long as i keep spraying berryman's. Fairly smooth too... [for a 30 year old powerplant]

docmirror

Ok, you have no fuel being delivered to the rails. You need to jumper the fuel pump relay, pins 30 to 87.

Locate relay XVII using the diagram on your wood panel, or from the relay board. Carefully remove the relay using a pair of hot dog tongs.
Using a flashlight, locate pins 30 and 87. I think they are on the left and right side.
Push jumper into these pins.
Locate fuse 22, physically remove it from the board and check it. Clean the terminals and reinstall it in the board.
Fuel pump should run.
Try starting the car.

jleidel

Mixed results on jumpering the relay. The car does not want to turn over when jumpered. When it finally does, it starts runs for half a second and dies... indicative that there is still carb cleaner in the manifold.

I've tried two relays using this process, both with the same results.

docmirror

READ and follow label instructions. I did NOT say move relays around, I said "jumper". The FP relay is a special type with other circuitry in it. Jumper, Jumper, Jumper, Jumper, Jumper. and don't forget the fuse 22 refurbishment. The pump should start running and you can hear it. Then if you want to crack the front fitting again fuel should seep out. Then try to start.

jleidel

Indeed, this is the third time I've gone through the jumpering process. Each with the aforementioned results.