1980 No Start... out of ideas
#1
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All, I've run into a spot of trouble with my 1980 model. I can't seem to get it started. I have spark at the distributor, the air flow meter is opening correctly. I just replaced the fuel relay and filter via Roger. I have fuel at the latter end of the filter [so the pump is indeed pumping...]. The car turns over very nicely, but no fire. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
#2
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Before I get into this again, tell me what you started with, and what you've done. What did you adjust, touch, fiddle with, modify, or repair so far.
#3
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Changed the oil, new battery, cleaned starter terminals, ensured air flow sensor/mass air flow were working, added 5 gallons 93 octane fuel, changed fuel relay, change fuel filter, ensured spark was being delivered to distributor [via workshop manual's instructions], no other modifications.
#4
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Have you ever had this car running?
Have you verified your timing belt is on correctly and not off any teeth?
Have you checked you ign timing, and verified it to be correct?
Have you verified your timing belt is on correctly and not off any teeth?
Have you checked you ign timing, and verified it to be correct?
#6
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Are the plugs wet?
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#8
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Oye, this is starting out badly. We just had a small GTG only about 8 miles from your location. There is a very active community of owners in DFW and we'll get you going eventually.
#9
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Indeed... I'm assuming you're speaking about the Einstein's Bagel GTG in Plano. I was there. I was the rather rotund gentleman driving the Excursion [as opposed to a 928]
#10
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first get the basics done check the timing( that is the cams and crank)once the engine is at TDC remove the cap and check the rotor for position it should face the #1 plug wire then check the the rest of the ignition wires for the correct routing. Get a fuse/relay chart here www.928gt.com check the fuses for correct position and corrosion also check the relays for correct part number and condition, any that are corroded should be cleaned with a pink eraser and also opend to check internal condition. Do any elex work with the battery disconnected. Any ideas why the car wasnt running in the first place? A new set of plugs may cure the problem but check timing first
#11
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I just pulled the plug from cylinder #1. It looks to be firing [or at least trying to] as the end isn't wet. However, they do look like they need to be replaced.
I've gone through the most typical of relays, and they seem to be functioning properly. I've cleaned the terminals on most all of them [at least those related to normal vehicle function]. I haven't yet checked the timing. I'm probably going to need some assistance from one of the local DFW-ers to make sure I don't screw it up. A new set of plugs probably wouldn't hurt at this point either.
See [rotten] picture of plug.
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/john.leidel/SLqiDthOEkI/AAAAAAAACVw/Bpc60R3DSjo/s144/dscn1536.jpg)
large version here.
I've gone through the most typical of relays, and they seem to be functioning properly. I've cleaned the terminals on most all of them [at least those related to normal vehicle function]. I haven't yet checked the timing. I'm probably going to need some assistance from one of the local DFW-ers to make sure I don't screw it up. A new set of plugs probably wouldn't hurt at this point either.
See [rotten] picture of plug.
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/john.leidel/SLqiDthOEkI/AAAAAAAACVw/Bpc60R3DSjo/s144/dscn1536.jpg)
large version here.
#15
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If it sounds like it's firing but won't actually run, I'm guessing you have a fairly well timed spark. That leaves you with the fuel delivery.
CIS is a hassle, mostly because no one understands them well. One thing they really don't like is to be left sitting for a long time without being run. At this point, I wouldn't mess with the CIS too much. If you ahve a can of carb cleaner, remove the air inlet housing to the CIS, and spritz the carb cleaner in the damper area while someone cranks the engine. It should fire some, and stumble showing that you have properly timed spark.
If it's been sitting a while, you'll have to do some repair work on the CIS head that is beyond the scope of Rennlist forum. If you locate an injector line, and remove the end at the injector we can test if you are getting fuel out to the injector nozzle. The warm up regulator, injector head, fuel pump and lines all affect how the system runs. once the injector line is off the nozzle, put the line in a baby food jar and turn on the key, then push the damper plate away from the stop briefly. You should get a significant spooge of fuel into the baby food jar.
Let us know how that goes with the carb cleaner first. You can run the car a bit on carb cleaner to see if the FI unit will take over and begin providing fuel, but it's a hassle, and you may get a backfire by using the carb cleaner to run the engine.
CIS is a hassle, mostly because no one understands them well. One thing they really don't like is to be left sitting for a long time without being run. At this point, I wouldn't mess with the CIS too much. If you ahve a can of carb cleaner, remove the air inlet housing to the CIS, and spritz the carb cleaner in the damper area while someone cranks the engine. It should fire some, and stumble showing that you have properly timed spark.
If it's been sitting a while, you'll have to do some repair work on the CIS head that is beyond the scope of Rennlist forum. If you locate an injector line, and remove the end at the injector we can test if you are getting fuel out to the injector nozzle. The warm up regulator, injector head, fuel pump and lines all affect how the system runs. once the injector line is off the nozzle, put the line in a baby food jar and turn on the key, then push the damper plate away from the stop briefly. You should get a significant spooge of fuel into the baby food jar.
Let us know how that goes with the carb cleaner first. You can run the car a bit on carb cleaner to see if the FI unit will take over and begin providing fuel, but it's a hassle, and you may get a backfire by using the carb cleaner to run the engine.