NEW COST EFFECTIVE PRODUCT - Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge
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Sean but what if you were bolting on wheels with straight lug holes rather than the acorn Porsche holes but still used the acorn Porsche nuts ? I have seen them come in like that and the wheels were still on the car.....guess that makes it O K .
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the only part of adding the ball with a hole is that the nut wont screw down as far on the threads as the inside of the gauge threads will probably hit the ball first.
Jim is correct about tapping the nut to NPT standards as well as having the gauge with corresponding tapered threads. The only caution here is that the taper thats cut into the nut must be a certain size as a NPT tap will make a bigger set of threads if its turned too far into the nut. (so test fitting each gauge to nut must be done)
That said it might be a better solution to add a copper sealing washer to the threaded portion of the fuel rail then install the nut/gauge this should seal unless the gauge was screwed too far into the nut then the gauge will contact the threaded portion/ball seat area of the fuel rail and possibly deform it so you wont be able to install another cap nut if you cant get the gauge/nut to seal. I had a time getting my gauge to seal but no leaks in 4 years . I have a Summit racing gauge and the only thing with it is the face of the dial is now turning lite brown, or maybe its the oil in the gauge, The gauge was originally white
Jim is correct about tapping the nut to NPT standards as well as having the gauge with corresponding tapered threads. The only caution here is that the taper thats cut into the nut must be a certain size as a NPT tap will make a bigger set of threads if its turned too far into the nut. (so test fitting each gauge to nut must be done)
That said it might be a better solution to add a copper sealing washer to the threaded portion of the fuel rail then install the nut/gauge this should seal unless the gauge was screwed too far into the nut then the gauge will contact the threaded portion/ball seat area of the fuel rail and possibly deform it so you wont be able to install another cap nut if you cant get the gauge/nut to seal. I had a time getting my gauge to seal but no leaks in 4 years . I have a Summit racing gauge and the only thing with it is the face of the dial is now turning lite brown, or maybe its the oil in the gauge, The gauge was originally white
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C'mon guys, there's no reason to beat up anyone for being cautious-- remember that were talking about 40psi fuel here and "blackened shark" is definitely not on the menu.
The fitting in question is intended for the same type of metric ball-end fitting used elsewhere in the fuel system, and Porsche capped it with a ball-- simple and reliable. If we want to maintain the same standard for reliability and safety then we need to do something as good as the factory did. A well-accepted alternative is fine-- but teflon (tape or goop) is not intended for use on untapered threads. An o-ring is reliable provided that it is properly compressed, i.e. fitted to a carefully-machined groove so that it cannot be over-compressed and squeeze out.
The right solution is a "magic fitting" with a metric ball-end on one side and a 1/8" female pipe thread on the other. It's been discussed here before (we may be new here but "search is my friend") and is not readily available for a reasonable price.
We all get to make our own choices, it's a wonderful thing. And Roger is my hero, he should get a Nobel prize for his fuel-line kit alone. And fuel pressure is important, it would be very nice to be able to monitor it. But when it comes to fuel I get very conservative, so we'll keep looking for that magic fitting.
Cheers, Jim
The fitting in question is intended for the same type of metric ball-end fitting used elsewhere in the fuel system, and Porsche capped it with a ball-- simple and reliable. If we want to maintain the same standard for reliability and safety then we need to do something as good as the factory did. A well-accepted alternative is fine-- but teflon (tape or goop) is not intended for use on untapered threads. An o-ring is reliable provided that it is properly compressed, i.e. fitted to a carefully-machined groove so that it cannot be over-compressed and squeeze out.
The right solution is a "magic fitting" with a metric ball-end on one side and a 1/8" female pipe thread on the other. It's been discussed here before (we may be new here but "search is my friend") and is not readily available for a reasonable price.
We all get to make our own choices, it's a wonderful thing. And Roger is my hero, he should get a Nobel prize for his fuel-line kit alone. And fuel pressure is important, it would be very nice to be able to monitor it. But when it comes to fuel I get very conservative, so we'll keep looking for that magic fitting.
Cheers, Jim
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Back to the topic please for my sake 8>)
I take Jim's comments seriously and have tried to make that clear in my response.
However it is pretty obvious that there is a market and we just have to double check the design.
Looking at it this morning. Post later.
I take Jim's comments seriously and have tried to make that clear in my response.
However it is pretty obvious that there is a market and we just have to double check the design.
Looking at it this morning. Post later.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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I have been assembling some of the gauges to the nut and the nut to the rail.
Found some interesting results and will post pictures later.
To much product to ship 8>)
Found some interesting results and will post pictures later.
To much product to ship 8>)
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I am the one who has been making and providing the fuel rail gauge kits to 928 Motorsports for a number of years now.
It comes with an o-ring to seal against the flat on the fuel rail because that is "one" of the proper methods of ensuring a leak free seal. The use of teflon tape is fine on the tapered gauge threads but it SHOULD NOT be used on the straight threads of the fuel rail. The chances for a leak are probably better than 50% and chance of an engine fire way to high to even risk, unless using the gauge for test and then immediately removing it after. Still might be too much of a risk.
I have not dealt with Roger but I hear all kinds of good things about him and I am by no means trying to pick on anyone here, just trying to keep everyone safe.
It comes with an o-ring to seal against the flat on the fuel rail because that is "one" of the proper methods of ensuring a leak free seal. The use of teflon tape is fine on the tapered gauge threads but it SHOULD NOT be used on the straight threads of the fuel rail. The chances for a leak are probably better than 50% and chance of an engine fire way to high to even risk, unless using the gauge for test and then immediately removing it after. Still might be too much of a risk.
I have not dealt with Roger but I hear all kinds of good things about him and I am by no means trying to pick on anyone here, just trying to keep everyone safe.
Last edited by Tim Murphy; 01-06-2013 at 10:03 PM.
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UPDATE - well I have decided to err on the side of caution and produce an adapter to connect the gauge to the fuel rail and allow the right amount of compression to an O ring seal.
Once I get them back from the machine shop I will start filling the orders.
Price will be the same and no core charge.
Jim - thanks for your good council on the basics of safety for the masses. This needs to be foolproof.
Once I get them back from the machine shop I will start filling the orders.
Price will be the same and no core charge.
Jim - thanks for your good council on the basics of safety for the masses. This needs to be foolproof.
Last edited by ROG100; 09-03-2008 at 10:52 AM.
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Roger............do you know if the thread sizes are the same for your FP guage is the same as Carl's? If so perhaps there's a ready made solution.