Brass bushings for rear shift linkage
#1
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On my way back from Hell my car experienced severe shifter sloppiness. It was like stirring a bowl of water, I didn't know what gear I was in with certainty until I let out the clutch. Last night I had time to go to a friend's garage and look at it. There were no bushings on either side and one set screw was gone. He had some brass and lathe so we made brass bushings; .900 outside diameter and .471 inside diameter (IIRC). Now it shifts very presicely. I don't recommend this "fix" as the bushings are designed to absorb shock and are a "fuse" to prevent transmsission damage from overzealous jamming through the gears. But I do like the way it shifts and don't speed shift so will probably leave it alone.
#2
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The plastic bushings have a slightly elongated hole the same basic coupler is used for the early 911 but has round holes and uses the "other" set screw. The 928 only uses one set screw on the side of the shift rod.
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Saturday I replaced the front shift rod on the old very brown 1980. I had broken the tubing just in front of the welded bracket at the shifter. The tubing is thin wall and not all that strong. I also changed the 928 424 017 05 bearing bracket the one about four inches in front of the shifter. The plastic on mine was gone the good used replacement made a ton of difference as it eliminated the side to side movement of that forward rod making all the motion concentrated on the rear shift rod. Bad news is it is real hard to change that bearing bracket with the torque tube in the car. I pulled the console and made a "magic window" (hole saw) in the tunnel to access the two nuts.
#6
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LOL Jim, I think I will keep the aluminum ones I already have, they are lighter. :P
I know that those pipes are thin wall all too well, I cut and welded the rear one on my car to add my short shifter mechanism in the rear. Was a PITA to get it all welded, but I succeded.
I know that those pipes are thin wall all too well, I cut and welded the rear one on my car to add my short shifter mechanism in the rear. Was a PITA to get it all welded, but I succeded.
#7
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Jim - you could take this "weight reduction with holesaw" thing a bit too far...
But how about adding a convenient filler port for the transmission fluid or a torque tube inspection port under the cassette box (just open up the lid & reach down to check for vibration as you drive...)![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Alan
But how about adding a convenient filler port for the transmission fluid or a torque tube inspection port under the cassette box (just open up the lid & reach down to check for vibration as you drive...)
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Alan
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#8
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The driver's side had two set screws so I assumed the bottom passenger side was missing. The top and bottom set screw holes are offset with, I think, the bottom hole closer to the outside. We placed the bushings in flush and scribed where the set screw would go then drilled set points, greased the inside and put it back together. I didn't locktite the set screws but if they back out I will next time.
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I really do need to take the alloy bumpers off and remove the "excess" metal but if I pull the covers I really should paint the car ..... slippery slope
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The bushings do not have set screws they have a shoulder , you press the cross pin out insert the bushings and press the pin back in....the shoulders are on the inside makes the bushing captive until the plastic falls apart. Sounds like yours may have been customized before
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#11
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The bushings do not have set screws they have a shoulder , you press the cross pin out insert the bushings and press the pin back in....the shoulders are on the inside makes the bushing captive until the plastic falls apart. Sounds like yours may have been customized before ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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