New "green wire" replacement question
UPDATE, see post #17
After having an occassional no start problem, and replacing a few relays and checking the fuel pump with no change, I broke down and bought a new, very expensive "green wire" for my 1983. Last night I planned to replace the wire, but it was harder then I expected. The end of the wire by the passenger fender came off fine, but the connection to the distributor was the problem. It appears that some sort of bracket or brace holds the wire connector to the distributor that has two screws. My questions is, how the heck are you supposed to get the screws out, there is absolutely no way any screw driver appears fit to get the screws out? Do you actually have to remove the distributor, or am I missing something (which is possible it was about midnight when I looked at it)? Help would be appreciated.
After having an occassional no start problem, and replacing a few relays and checking the fuel pump with no change, I broke down and bought a new, very expensive "green wire" for my 1983. Last night I planned to replace the wire, but it was harder then I expected. The end of the wire by the passenger fender came off fine, but the connection to the distributor was the problem. It appears that some sort of bracket or brace holds the wire connector to the distributor that has two screws. My questions is, how the heck are you supposed to get the screws out, there is absolutely no way any screw driver appears fit to get the screws out? Do you actually have to remove the distributor, or am I missing something (which is possible it was about midnight when I looked at it)? Help would be appreciated.
Last edited by sfierle; Aug 28, 2008 at 01:04 PM. Reason: update
When I replaced mine I pulled the distributor. Not sure if you have to but one 13mm bolt and it's out. Just mark where it was before yanking it, probably a good idea to have the engine at TDC.
Pace, Hacker, but TDC or not makes zero difference. But make sure to mark and/or note the position of the rotor relative to the body of the distributor. I do both - a little drawing and a little bit of paint or nail polish.
Do not loosen the distributor clamp, just unbolt it from the block and lift the dist. out. It will probably rotate as you remove it but that's OK b/c it will rotate the other way as you replace it. Just make sure the engine doesn't rotate between removal and replacement and that the rotor points _exactly_ the same way.
It's a snap. Much easier than torturing your fingers and tools around inaccessible fasteners.
Keep us posted on how it works and test the new and old green wire for continuity and resistance and whatever else you can think of.
Do not loosen the distributor clamp, just unbolt it from the block and lift the dist. out. It will probably rotate as you remove it but that's OK b/c it will rotate the other way as you replace it. Just make sure the engine doesn't rotate between removal and replacement and that the rotor points _exactly_ the same way.
It's a snap. Much easier than torturing your fingers and tools around inaccessible fasteners.
Keep us posted on how it works and test the new and old green wire for continuity and resistance and whatever else you can think of.
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On mine I marked where the distributor was on the adjustment slot at the side, undid the adjustment bolt, removed the cap & rotated the distributor until I could see the screws.
While I was playing around with JDS's brown wire I got to do this a few times - with practice it takes 5/10 minutes.
I also took the opportunity to run the green wire with cable ties along the stabiliser bar (or whatever it is called) that runs across the top of the motor- my idea was to stop the green wire being cooked by the motor.
BTW, one trick is some green wires come with an extra plastic piece at the distributor end that you have to rip off to get the connector to fit correctly.
Marton
While I was playing around with JDS's brown wire I got to do this a few times - with practice it takes 5/10 minutes.
I also took the opportunity to run the green wire with cable ties along the stabiliser bar (or whatever it is called) that runs across the top of the motor- my idea was to stop the green wire being cooked by the motor.
BTW, one trick is some green wires come with an extra plastic piece at the distributor end that you have to rip off to get the connector to fit correctly.
Marton
Steve,
I concur w chris. No need to take out dist. you will need to remove dist. cap to access the clip that holds in the green wire though. Right angle screwdriver, take your time. Use heavy duty zip ties to attatch the green wire on to your wiring harness from distributor all the way to the connector by the jump start post on pass side fender well. Heavy duty should hold up under the engine heat. (The first ones I put on got brittle real quick and came apart) Should take you under an hr. to swap it out.
Good luck!
I concur w chris. No need to take out dist. you will need to remove dist. cap to access the clip that holds in the green wire though. Right angle screwdriver, take your time. Use heavy duty zip ties to attatch the green wire on to your wiring harness from distributor all the way to the connector by the jump start post on pass side fender well. Heavy duty should hold up under the engine heat. (The first ones I put on got brittle real quick and came apart) Should take you under an hr. to swap it out.
Good luck!
I guess I am making a trip to the store for a right angle screwdriver, which I would rather do then risk messing up the timing by pulling the distibutor. Thanks for the input everyone, I will let you know how it turns out.



