Taylor "drilled" crank for sale--plus a whole lot more
#31
Nordschleife Master
Let's beat the drum a bit together and maybe some drilled cranks start appearing from the shadows, given the state of the economy...
#32
Race Director
Clearly we both are addressing same issues in our track 928's...granted yours is FAR prettier than mine...but I'm slowly working on that!
Doc does not like the full IJ setup....he prefers his design
http://precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm
Which has a proven track record on most of the strokers he builds (all ones for the track anyway)....
There are so many "issues" that contribute to premature 2-6 failure....even with dry sumped systems.... heres is the lengthy steps I did to prevent a future issue:
1: Taylor drilled cranks
2: Loose rod bearings (min spec is around .0019...0025" is much better)
3: Full Doc Brown windage-spacer
4: GTS baffle (why not since its apart)
5: slight mods to the girdle oil passageways
6: 3 Qt high pressure accusump with 55-60 psi EPC valve wired to a dash switch
7: 19 row Setrab oil cooler, in radiator cooler bypassed
8: Oil temp gauge
9: Improved breathers on other side routed to catch can
10: oil analysis by blackstone after 5 hours, then as needed per anaylsis
after a couple oil changes (I only run amsoil racing 15-50) I will have a good idea of the condition of the engine based off the results....I'm also considering hooking up the accusump to my datalogger or a light on the dash so I will know when it engages & for how long
#33
Rennlist
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Red
Clearly we both are addressing same issues in our track 928's...granted yours is FAR prettier than mine...but I'm slowly working on that!
Doc does not like the full IJ setup....he prefers his design
http://precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm
Which has a proven track record on most of the strokers he builds (all ones for the track anyway)....
There are so many "issues" that contribute to premature 2-6 failure....even with dry sumped systems.... heres is the lengthy steps I did to prevent a future issue:
1: Taylor drilled cranks
2: Loose rod bearings (min spec is around .0019...0025" is much better)
3: Full Doc Brown windage-spacer
4: GTS baffle (why not since its apart)
5: slight mods to the girdle oil passageways
6: 3 Qt high pressure accusump with 55-60 psi EPC valve wired to a dash switch
7: 19 row Setrab oil cooler, in radiator cooler bypassed
8: Oil temp gauge
9: Improved breathers on other side routed to catch can
10: oil analysis by blackstone after 5 hours, then as needed per anaylsis
after a couple oil changes (I only run amsoil racing 15-50) I will have a good idea of the condition of the engine based off the results....I'm also considering hooking up the accusump to my datalogger or a light on the dash so I will know when it engages & for how long
Clearly we both are addressing same issues in our track 928's...granted yours is FAR prettier than mine...but I'm slowly working on that!
Doc does not like the full IJ setup....he prefers his design
http://precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm
Which has a proven track record on most of the strokers he builds (all ones for the track anyway)....
There are so many "issues" that contribute to premature 2-6 failure....even with dry sumped systems.... heres is the lengthy steps I did to prevent a future issue:
1: Taylor drilled cranks
2: Loose rod bearings (min spec is around .0019...0025" is much better)
3: Full Doc Brown windage-spacer
4: GTS baffle (why not since its apart)
5: slight mods to the girdle oil passageways
6: 3 Qt high pressure accusump with 55-60 psi EPC valve wired to a dash switch
7: 19 row Setrab oil cooler, in radiator cooler bypassed
8: Oil temp gauge
9: Improved breathers on other side routed to catch can
10: oil analysis by blackstone after 5 hours, then as needed per anaylsis
after a couple oil changes (I only run amsoil racing 15-50) I will have a good idea of the condition of the engine based off the results....I'm also considering hooking up the accusump to my datalogger or a light on the dash so I will know when it engages & for how long
I always use the GTS baffle, with my spacer and windage stuff.
Buy a Sharktuner and keep the knocks very low, so that the uber "soft" 928 rod bearings don't get pounded.
Use the oil filler neck from a GTS and convert the hoses to GTS.
We make valve cover "breather elbow" extentions for the heads with the "narrow" gaps. This helps keep the oil from getting directly into the elbows on those two positions. We'll have "new" breathers for all 4 positions in a month.
Buy Mark Anderson's customer's oil thingy for under the oil filler neck.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#34
Rennlist Member
My spacers for the pickup will push it closer to the oil pan...which is what we want. Just make sure the screen doesn't hit the pan itself and that's the clearance you want. Attack the oil pan with a 2" sanding disc on a 90 degree die grinder to remove material from the oil pan, as needed. Don't use a pan gasket.
I always use the GTS baffle, with my spacer and windage stuff.
Buy a Sharktuner and keep the knocks very low, so that the uber "soft" 928 rod bearings don't get pounded.
Use the oil filler neck from a GTS and convert the hoses to GTS.
We make valve cover "breather elbow" extentions for the heads with the "narrow" gaps. This helps keep the oil from getting directly into the elbows on those two positions. We'll have "new" breathers for all 4 positions in a month.
Buy Mark Anderson's customer's oil thingy for under the oil filler neck.
I always use the GTS baffle, with my spacer and windage stuff.
Buy a Sharktuner and keep the knocks very low, so that the uber "soft" 928 rod bearings don't get pounded.
Use the oil filler neck from a GTS and convert the hoses to GTS.
We make valve cover "breather elbow" extentions for the heads with the "narrow" gaps. This helps keep the oil from getting directly into the elbows on those two positions. We'll have "new" breathers for all 4 positions in a month.
Buy Mark Anderson's customer's oil thingy for under the oil filler neck.
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