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Taylor "drilled" crank for sale--plus a whole lot more

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Old 05-26-2009, 11:54 PM
  #31  
ptuomov
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Originally Posted by Red
Russ sent me a PM letting me know the crank was sold. The thread as far as selling things is done, I assume, so fair game. BUT, I'm in the same boat as you... possibly in the market for a drilled crank.
Let's beat the drum a bit together and maybe some drilled cranks start appearing from the shadows, given the state of the economy...
Old 05-27-2009, 12:12 AM
  #32  
IcemanG17
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Originally Posted by Red
Stealing the deals from me, Brian. Was your crank toast? What all does Greg Brown do as far as windage? I'm eyeing the I-J setup, but that is so much money for some laser cut steel.
Red
Clearly we both are addressing same issues in our track 928's...granted yours is FAR prettier than mine...but I'm slowly working on that!

Doc does not like the full IJ setup....he prefers his design

http://precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm

Which has a proven track record on most of the strokers he builds (all ones for the track anyway)....

There are so many "issues" that contribute to premature 2-6 failure....even with dry sumped systems.... heres is the lengthy steps I did to prevent a future issue:

1: Taylor drilled cranks
2: Loose rod bearings (min spec is around .0019...0025" is much better)
3: Full Doc Brown windage-spacer
4: GTS baffle (why not since its apart)
5: slight mods to the girdle oil passageways
6: 3 Qt high pressure accusump with 55-60 psi EPC valve wired to a dash switch
7: 19 row Setrab oil cooler, in radiator cooler bypassed
8: Oil temp gauge
9: Improved breathers on other side routed to catch can
10: oil analysis by blackstone after 5 hours, then as needed per anaylsis

after a couple oil changes (I only run amsoil racing 15-50) I will have a good idea of the condition of the engine based off the results....I'm also considering hooking up the accusump to my datalogger or a light on the dash so I will know when it engages & for how long
Old 05-27-2009, 01:57 AM
  #33  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
Red
Clearly we both are addressing same issues in our track 928's...granted yours is FAR prettier than mine...but I'm slowly working on that!

Doc does not like the full IJ setup....he prefers his design

http://precisionmtrwerks.com/products/products.htm

Which has a proven track record on most of the strokers he builds (all ones for the track anyway)....

There are so many "issues" that contribute to premature 2-6 failure....even with dry sumped systems.... heres is the lengthy steps I did to prevent a future issue:

1: Taylor drilled cranks
2: Loose rod bearings (min spec is around .0019...0025" is much better)
3: Full Doc Brown windage-spacer
4: GTS baffle (why not since its apart)
5: slight mods to the girdle oil passageways
6: 3 Qt high pressure accusump with 55-60 psi EPC valve wired to a dash switch
7: 19 row Setrab oil cooler, in radiator cooler bypassed
8: Oil temp gauge
9: Improved breathers on other side routed to catch can
10: oil analysis by blackstone after 5 hours, then as needed per anaylsis

after a couple oil changes (I only run amsoil racing 15-50) I will have a good idea of the condition of the engine based off the results....I'm also considering hooking up the accusump to my datalogger or a light on the dash so I will know when it engages & for how long
My spacers for the pickup will push it closer to the oil pan...which is what we want. Just make sure the screen doesn't hit the pan itself and that's the clearance you want. Attack the oil pan with a 2" sanding disc on a 90 degree die grinder to remove material from the oil pan, as needed. Don't use a pan gasket.

I always use the GTS baffle, with my spacer and windage stuff.

Buy a Sharktuner and keep the knocks very low, so that the uber "soft" 928 rod bearings don't get pounded.

Use the oil filler neck from a GTS and convert the hoses to GTS.

We make valve cover "breather elbow" extentions for the heads with the "narrow" gaps. This helps keep the oil from getting directly into the elbows on those two positions. We'll have "new" breathers for all 4 positions in a month.

Buy Mark Anderson's customer's oil thingy for under the oil filler neck.
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Old 05-27-2009, 10:34 AM
  #34  
Rick Carter
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
My spacers for the pickup will push it closer to the oil pan...which is what we want. Just make sure the screen doesn't hit the pan itself and that's the clearance you want. Attack the oil pan with a 2" sanding disc on a 90 degree die grinder to remove material from the oil pan, as needed. Don't use a pan gasket.

I always use the GTS baffle, with my spacer and windage stuff.

Buy a Sharktuner and keep the knocks very low, so that the uber "soft" 928 rod bearings don't get pounded.

Use the oil filler neck from a GTS and convert the hoses to GTS.

We make valve cover "breather elbow" extentions for the heads with the "narrow" gaps. This helps keep the oil from getting directly into the elbows on those two positions. We'll have "new" breathers for all 4 positions in a month.

Buy Mark Anderson's customer's oil thingy for under the oil filler neck.
Greg,
Email sent.



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