Tampa 928s

Thanks for the pictures:
Looks like when it hit something underneath it bent a few things, I got the condenser to fit after a lot of work but have a few more questions.

I know this vacuum canister does not go here, any idea where it should be mounted if you follow the hoses its apparent its in the wrong place.

The rear is shaking when placed in gear and making a noise. I believe its bad 1/2 shafts, look at the picture of the boot travel and you can see a lot of play in and out.

He also need a radiator any one have one to sell?

largecar379

yes to the radiator

yes to the half shafts (2 pairs)


PM me--

--Russ

Leslie 928 S2

If that's the carbon canister there, Kevin's was mounted to the undercarriage shield on the passenger side. It's not there anymore, though, so he can't give you a pic of it.

Tampa 928s

Running new vacuum lines and need a little info:
Where is the automatic switch I can't find it to attach the line to it.
We are eliminating the air pump and have a question about two sensors that did contain a vacuum line and a venting port. First do I need them and second which vacuum line goes on which vacuum post. The lines were broken and disconnected is a lot of the runs.

Leslie 928 S2

That's temp sender II with all the pretty wires. You definitely need that one. It's part of your fuel and ignition system, and tells the computer the engine temperature to adjust fuel and ignition. We don't think it runs without it.

[edit: on further inspection, you just have the rubber around the wire end of it broken, not the sender itself. just tape it for now, and get a replacement end when you can.)

The thing with the two ports...we've seen that go two ways. Once, it was hooked up to the fuel regulators and dampeners and we bypassed it with no problem. We also have seen it run to the riser valve in the passenger side exhaust manifold (the butterfly that closes) to help engine warm up. You could just send vacuum to it, to open it. Connect the vacuum lines that used to go to the switch together to bypass it and that oughta fix you up as long as they hold vacuum.

Tampa 928s

We changed the caps and buttons and plugs and it now seems the ignition is breaking down. I told my friend to take it easy on the spark plug wires they are 21 years old, that is the only variable I can think of that could cause this.

My previous question did not pertain to the temp two sensor it was the mechanical sensor that had the two vacuum ports, near it. Actually there are two and I could not find the auto transmission solenoid. I just connected the Fuel pressure regulators and dampeners from the vacuum port on the back of the throttle body only. Could this be in any way related to my braking down. I have a ton of vacuum lines and connectors left over from the kit and I cannot find anything else to hook it to. The air pump is off but was bypassed when we picked up the car. There is a vacuum solenoid located near the passenger side header that was disconnected by |P.O. I also found the one way valve broken and black taped and disconnected with an open T, nice.

I have been trying to find some diagrams of vacuum, component locations and general pictures to no avail and Rogers kit instructions was to generic. This is my first Euro and it differs from my 86 32valve so I'm a little in the dark.

Leslie 928 S2

The fuel pressure regulator should be connected to the port on the back of the throttle body (the higher one) closer to the drivers side of the car. If you hooked up to that, that should not be your problem. If you connected to the other port, that doesn't see vacuum at idle, and would cause you to run richer.

Did you ever check the internal dual distributor belt? Check also to see if the distributor is positioned properly.

Did you check the temp II sensor with an ohm meter using the wsm instructions? What about the mass air flow? And the ignition wires? They should have about 3 ohms resistance each.

Are there screens in the mass air flow? Turbulence without them would cause a misfire or misrunning engine also.

Then check for corrosion on the two coils, where the wires goes into the coils. That's always a good. Check 16 pin connector by the jump start post, too, while you're there. If the cover isn't there, it's probably corroded. Heck, it's probably corroded even if the cover is there.

What other vacuum connections or pics do you need?

Leslie 928 S2

One more thing, is there a vacuum line going to the ignition computer? It's hooked to the front of the intake manifold...any intake manifold that sees vacuum at idle and on will do. It's usually hooked up to the front of the center intake.

Tampa 928s

The fuel pressure regulator should be connected to the port on the back of the throttle body (the higher one) closer to the drivers side of the car. If you hooked up to that, that should not be your problem. If you connected to the other port, that doesn't see vacuum at idle, and would cause you to run richer.

It's connected correctly it loops to all Dampeners also.

Did you ever check the internal dual distributor belt? Check also to see if the distributor is positioned properly.

Distributors have not been moved belt is fine, just replaced the caps, rotor and plugs doubled checked the sequence on the plug wires.

Did you check the temp II sensor with an ohm meter using the wsm instructions? What about the mass air flow? And the ignition wires? They should have about 3 ohms resistance each.
No not yet!
The wires are the only variable he may have damaged some when removing the coils or plugs new ones are on the way, car ran fine before the ignition work.
Are there screens in the mass air flow? Turbulence without them would cause a misfire or misrunning engine also.

Then check for corrosion on the two coils, where the wires goes into the coils. That's always a good. Check 16 pin connector by the jump start post, too, while you're there. If the cover isn't there, it's probably corroded. Heck, it's probably corroded even if the cover is there.
See above on running Ok, my motto fix it until it's broke!

What other vacuum connections or pics do you need?
Trying to locate all the locations of the vacuum related components, there should not be that much left over from the kit, never did find the Auto transmission solenoid.

Leslie 928 S2

Right side rear above the pan (passenger side), but to the rear of the trans, by the fluid reservoir.

As to vacuum connections, this is how Kevin's car looks now , so I'm sorry but I can't provide you with pics that will help you in this area, so you will have to send yours and we will try to help from them.

Fabio421

Mark, if you have an indictive timing light you can easily test the wires. Put the clamp of the timing light around one plug wire at a time and shine the timing light at the underside of the hood. You will get a flash every time that cylinder fires. If one cylinder is missing you will see it in the flash pattern. If the wire is completely bad you wount get any flashing at all.

Leslie 928 S2

Hey Tampa...how's the project going?

Tampa 928s

iSSUE OF THE DAY!

I have rebuilt the cv joints, replaced the Vacuum lines and added an x-pipe. Car and the is still making a creaking sound in the pass rear I need to look at the brakes next.

The issue now is I replaced the caps, rotor and plugs, working on the wires next. It seems like several plugs are not firing car is breaking down under laod like 1/2 the motor is running. I pulled a couple of plugs and can see they have been firing and ohmed out the coil and a few wires they seem ok. I used a timing light per Shawn's recommendation and looks like they are all firing steady. Car idles fine, I listened to each injector and they are firing, Fuel pressure is good and when lifting the Vacuum line pressure goes up. The vacuum port for the F/R Etc are all connected on the high port of the TB. This seems like a breakdown under load and I was wondering where to look next. This happened after we changed the caps etc worked fine before this, any feedback?

sharknoob

Did you make sure firing order is right

Tampa 928s

Yes 3-times!