Clutch pedal won't return all the way
#1
Supercharged
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Clutch pedal won't return all the way
I've been having an issue lately where teh clutch pedal won't return all the way up to the top. If I just lift it a bit with the top-side of my foot, it pops up all the way.
It doesn't do this all the time; pretty much only when I get on it! It seems to stick just after the point of engagement, so it doesn't seem to affect driveability.
I'm thinking it's either the TO beaing (it's been making some noise), the slave, or the master.
Just curious if anyone else has ever experienced this before.
And for the record, this is not an OE clutch. This is on my Spec Stage 3+ clutch.
-Andrew
It doesn't do this all the time; pretty much only when I get on it! It seems to stick just after the point of engagement, so it doesn't seem to affect driveability.
I'm thinking it's either the TO beaing (it's been making some noise), the slave, or the master.
Just curious if anyone else has ever experienced this before.
And for the record, this is not an OE clutch. This is on my Spec Stage 3+ clutch.
-Andrew
#2
Instructor
Hey Andrew !
My clutch pedal is not connected since I have no engine yet, and the spring that is attached to it pulls it right down to the floor when I move it a just few inches inward. My guess is that the pressure in the system pushes it out when you pull back your foot. Could it be that you have some air in the clutch system ?
As I said, I`m only guessing here
My clutch pedal is not connected since I have no engine yet, and the spring that is attached to it pulls it right down to the floor when I move it a just few inches inward. My guess is that the pressure in the system pushes it out when you pull back your foot. Could it be that you have some air in the clutch system ?
As I said, I`m only guessing here
#4
Supercharged
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No fluid. No air. It's more or less like it's cammed and it can't quite overcome the cam. (Does that make sense?) With a slight nudge it will pop right up.
Oh... an additional point. If I let off the gas, it will usually pop back up.
That leads me to think it's the TO bearing, but not sure why.
Oh... an additional point. If I let off the gas, it will usually pop back up.
That leads me to think it's the TO bearing, but not sure why.
#6
Three Wheelin'
I know we are talking about two diff cars here but just my $.02. I help maintain a friend's 951 and 928. He's an attorney, and while he knows which way the front of a courtroom is, he can't tell you which end is which on a screwdriver. He bought a very nice MY 86 951 last year and the clutch pedal was doing the same thing. Before I could get around to looking at it, he spun #2 rod bearing. After redoing the engine, I got to the clutch and tried bleeding it. That wasn't the problem. When I adjusted the clutch, I found that there was a small range where it would not return fully. I ran into the same problem on my 951 when I put a new clutch in it. My 928 is one of those rare 'clutchless' models, so I don't have to worry about this. These are both F&S clutches. Like I said, just my $.02. I'm sure you've tried adjusting already.
#7
Instructor
Maybe it`s the movement of the engine when you let off the gas that causes the pedal to pop back ? Pressure peak in the lines ? I think I know what you meen when you say "cammed"
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#13
Andrew,
Is you clutch pedal adjusted to the old preload spec or the new (as of 91). The old spec didn't hold constant pressure against the pedal like the new preload (one revolution) spec.
Dennis
Is you clutch pedal adjusted to the old preload spec or the new (as of 91). The old spec didn't hold constant pressure against the pedal like the new preload (one revolution) spec.
Dennis
#14
Rennlist Member
Had the problem twice on the 84.
I've had this problem with a rebuilt slave and old master. Had leak-by contained within cylinder.
Replaced master innards and it worked correctly.l
Then, slave rebuild kit failed (rubber seal seemed too hard when being rebuilt). Very similar problem, clutch pedal drop over the cam-point, except had fluid leaking out visibly. Replaced slave, problem gone.
Further note. Sunday, when we installed this new slave, we put nearly a pint of fluid into the reservoir to begin with ( clutch had leaked way down). Bled with helper pumping down, using rubber hose looped under pedal to slowly raise it each time. Bled and Bled. Only got 1/3 pedal.
Then, I did the trick where you release air on master at firewall ( inside car ). Pedal instantly high, over the cam point, didn't even bother bleeding any further. Full pedal. Interesting.
Hope that helps. If no leak, probably master, do bleed at slave first, then bleed master at firewall, might last a while. If not, by new master innards. Just my thoughts. Good luck, fearless leader.
I've had this problem with a rebuilt slave and old master. Had leak-by contained within cylinder.
Replaced master innards and it worked correctly.l
Then, slave rebuild kit failed (rubber seal seemed too hard when being rebuilt). Very similar problem, clutch pedal drop over the cam-point, except had fluid leaking out visibly. Replaced slave, problem gone.
Further note. Sunday, when we installed this new slave, we put nearly a pint of fluid into the reservoir to begin with ( clutch had leaked way down). Bled with helper pumping down, using rubber hose looped under pedal to slowly raise it each time. Bled and Bled. Only got 1/3 pedal.
Then, I did the trick where you release air on master at firewall ( inside car ). Pedal instantly high, over the cam point, didn't even bother bleeding any further. Full pedal. Interesting.
Hope that helps. If no leak, probably master, do bleed at slave first, then bleed master at firewall, might last a while. If not, by new master innards. Just my thoughts. Good luck, fearless leader.