Clutch pedal won't return all the way
#16
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Had this problem on my GTS with an OEM unit. Turned out the clutch fork was not the correct rev. Replaced entire unit and problem went away. I know you don't have an OEM, but the symptoms might suggest clutch mechanism. Bent clutch fork or failing pressure plate?
#17
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Detach shaft from pedal, remove snap ring, allow piston assembly to start to come out, a bubble of air and fluid comes-out, quick get piston back-in, replace snap ring, reattach, 5 minutes tops.
Further notes, nose high enough in elevation so that slave is on angle with horizon such that bleeder screw is higher than rest of slave, allows easy bleeding of slave without needing to hand manipulate the slave rod.
Due to inclination of master, no angle is possible that would allow air to work-out completely, thats why the air bleed into cockpit makes sense.
Further notes, nose high enough in elevation so that slave is on angle with horizon such that bleeder screw is higher than rest of slave, allows easy bleeding of slave without needing to hand manipulate the slave rod.
Due to inclination of master, no angle is possible that would allow air to work-out completely, thats why the air bleed into cockpit makes sense.
#18
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Mine started this after I replaced a clutch hose. It been like this for about 12000 miles now. I just let it go. I figgured I do not have it blead correctly
#20
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Mine started doing the same about a month before the master failed. It didn't pop back up when I let off the gas though and it did it all the time regardless of how I was driving it. It's never done it again since I replaced the master and slave.
#21
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Mine is doing it now. The pedal will pop up after a couple of seconds. I believe it is trapped air also. I can barely get it to disengage. Shifting into gear has been an issue which has precipitated ball cup failure in the shifter due to forcing it a bit too much. G
#22
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Thanks all for the responses. Let me re-iterate, that there is no performance issue. The pedal is firm and it shifts fine. It's as-if the clutch helper spring is preventing it from coming up all the way. I'll take a look at it tonight.
![](https://lh4.ggpht.com/AndrewmOlson/SIdKAL3MPwI/AAAAAAAABNI/fpXTvW0e4D0/s800/059.jpg)
#23
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AO,
Did you unscrew (release tension) the helper spring to see if that helps?
I love the helper spring. Lifesaver in traffic.
Did you unscrew (release tension) the helper spring to see if that helps?
I love the helper spring. Lifesaver in traffic.
#25
Team Owner
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AO pay careful attention to the clutch pedal, they like to develop cracks in this area and thus a crack could be starting and this is a first sign that something isnt right
#26
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Exactly like mine. Once I got it over the hump it would clang as it reached the top of the stroke. I tried the helper spring, the release of bubble at the master. No change.
Logically, unless you recently changed something in there the helper spring won't make a difference.
Did you make any changes when you had the engine out?
Going out on a limb here, but I think you need to drop the clutch assembly.![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
[QUOTE=Andrew Olson;5632715]Thanks all for the responses. Let me re-iterate, that there is no performance issue. The pedal is firm and it shifts fine. It's as-if the clutch helper spring is preventing it from coming up all the way. I'll take a look at it tonight.
Logically, unless you recently changed something in there the helper spring won't make a difference.
Did you make any changes when you had the engine out?
Going out on a limb here, but I think you need to drop the clutch assembly.
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
[QUOTE=Andrew Olson;5632715]Thanks all for the responses. Let me re-iterate, that there is no performance issue. The pedal is firm and it shifts fine. It's as-if the clutch helper spring is preventing it from coming up all the way. I'll take a look at it tonight.
#27
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Stan- Thanks for the tip. I will inspect closely.
The TO bearing does rattle a bit. If the spring adjustment doesn't help along with a little lube, then I may try bleeding and then if that doens't help I'll drop the clutch and swap the TO bearing and arm from my GTS clutch.
The TO bearing does rattle a bit. If the spring adjustment doesn't help along with a little lube, then I may try bleeding and then if that doens't help I'll drop the clutch and swap the TO bearing and arm from my GTS clutch.
#28
Burning Brakes
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Andrew
Did you try the old clutch slave cylinder trick to get air out of that area?
Loosen the 2 13mm bolts 3/4 of the way out of the bell housing and push/pump the slave cylinder back into the bell housing. Do this a few times. A small amount of air can get trapped in that area. It worked for me on my last clutch job where the pedal would not return.
Did you try the old clutch slave cylinder trick to get air out of that area?
Loosen the 2 13mm bolts 3/4 of the way out of the bell housing and push/pump the slave cylinder back into the bell housing. Do this a few times. A small amount of air can get trapped in that area. It worked for me on my last clutch job where the pedal would not return.
#29
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Mine also does this occasionally - the pedal sticks and will not move all the way back by itself.
I have adjusted the helper spring, perhaps I adjusted it a bit too tight.
I belive the problem did not occur when doing this "improvement" adjustment, it came later.
Since this is a problem that has occured gradually, I think the cause is something that is wearing out.
May be the problem can be temporarily solved by adjusting the helper spring tension.
The clutch has no other issues.
I have adjusted the helper spring, perhaps I adjusted it a bit too tight.
I belive the problem did not occur when doing this "improvement" adjustment, it came later.
Since this is a problem that has occured gradually, I think the cause is something that is wearing out.
May be the problem can be temporarily solved by adjusting the helper spring tension.
The clutch has no other issues.