85-86 Intake Removal
#46
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Scott,
Check with Roger at 928sRus. He has a spreadsheet for the top-end refresh and you can just go through and check off the stuff you need. It's got descriptions (I think) and if you ask for the one for the S3 you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on this, it only needs it once every 25 years or so.
If you elect not to replace something on the list I hope it's because you already replaced it. There are lots of parts in there and if it's on his list it's a wear item or susceptible to wear/heat soak or both.
Check with Roger at 928sRus. He has a spreadsheet for the top-end refresh and you can just go through and check off the stuff you need. It's got descriptions (I think) and if you ask for the one for the S3 you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on this, it only needs it once every 25 years or so.
If you elect not to replace something on the list I hope it's because you already replaced it. There are lots of parts in there and if it's on his list it's a wear item or susceptible to wear/heat soak or both.
#47
Scott,
Check with Roger at 928sRus. He has a spreadsheet for the top-end refresh and you can just go through and check off the stuff you need. It's got descriptions (I think) and if you ask for the one for the S3 you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on this, it only needs it once every 25 years or so.
If you elect not to replace something on the list I hope it's because you already replaced it. There are lots of parts in there and if it's on his list it's a wear item or susceptible to wear/heat soak or both.
Check with Roger at 928sRus. He has a spreadsheet for the top-end refresh and you can just go through and check off the stuff you need. It's got descriptions (I think) and if you ask for the one for the S3 you'll be good to go. Don't skimp on this, it only needs it once every 25 years or so.
If you elect not to replace something on the list I hope it's because you already replaced it. There are lots of parts in there and if it's on his list it's a wear item or susceptible to wear/heat soak or both.
The kit I'm working from came from 928 International about a year ago but there were several parts I didn't check, I don't believe the cable is one of them though. So far I haven't found anyone selling that cable but I have sourced a pigtail for the female side of it. Unfortunately I can't find the male end, which is the one that's broken. If I could I'd just make the cable, it's only 16 inches long.
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto...318817&slide=1
#49
I haven't been able to reach Roger this week, but I did find the connectors so I'll be building the cable myself. It's a Bosch style AMP connector called a "Junior Power Timer" (I don't know why). They're available through EFI Express (https://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/) but they aren't cheap.
It occurred to me the connectors looked similar to the Bosch fuel injector terminals, sure enough, they're basically the same but with three conductors instead of two.
It occurred to me the connectors looked similar to the Bosch fuel injector terminals, sure enough, they're basically the same but with three conductors instead of two.
#50
Engine cleaned, vacuum distributor question?
After removing everything for the intake refresh I cleaned the engine up before re-assembling. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be, which was a pleasant surprise. I vacuumed the valley out with a wet/dry vac to get out the mouse nests and acorn shells, then used full strength simple green and a reversible ScotchBright/sponge kitchen pad to take off the rough grime. Then I took a spray bottle of water to rinse things down and repeated three or four times until I got some shiny spots. I switched to an old toothbrush to work over the tight spots with full strength SG and used a brass wire brush on the unfinished areas of the heads. The attached pitcure shows the result. The whole thing took about 6 hours.
Make sure you use full strength simple green in a well ventilated garage. I made the mistake of thinking "Bio-degradable" and "non-toxic" meant something but they don't. I got getting pretty light headed and ended up falling down unexpectedly. Be careful with that stuff.
After the cleaning I started re-assembling and the first thing was to replace the vacuum lines and connectors. I began with the vacuum distributor and got stopped; the replacement distributor I have has a total of seven ports on it, one at the end and three on each side. The distributor in the car looks like two separate parts (see attached picture), one is a 4 way with a port connected to another 4 way, so there's 1 main port with 2 distributor ports and a bridge going into the next 4 way with 3 distributor ports; total of 5 distributor ports. The replacement part has 6 plus the main so I have an extra port it would seem.
Has anyone seen this before? Am I looking at the vacuum distributor or something else entirely? The replacement part looks like the part in the PET, but my car doesn't.
Make sure you use full strength simple green in a well ventilated garage. I made the mistake of thinking "Bio-degradable" and "non-toxic" meant something but they don't. I got getting pretty light headed and ended up falling down unexpectedly. Be careful with that stuff.
After the cleaning I started re-assembling and the first thing was to replace the vacuum lines and connectors. I began with the vacuum distributor and got stopped; the replacement distributor I have has a total of seven ports on it, one at the end and three on each side. The distributor in the car looks like two separate parts (see attached picture), one is a 4 way with a port connected to another 4 way, so there's 1 main port with 2 distributor ports and a bridge going into the next 4 way with 3 distributor ports; total of 5 distributor ports. The replacement part has 6 plus the main so I have an extra port it would seem.
Has anyone seen this before? Am I looking at the vacuum distributor or something else entirely? The replacement part looks like the part in the PET, but my car doesn't.
#51
Race Car
Wow looks great! Now I wish I'd gone in with that much vigor and sharpened up the valley to that extent.
WYAIT.....you must have all of those down already but think carefully before foregoing the standoof posts- the rubber biscuit mounting studds. No big shakes if they fail--- except for the work required to get back at em. And, they're still cheap!
WYAIT.....you must have all of those down already but think carefully before foregoing the standoof posts- the rubber biscuit mounting studds. No big shakes if they fail--- except for the work required to get back at em. And, they're still cheap!
#52
Wow looks great! Now I wish I'd gone in with that much vigor and sharpened up the valley to that extent.
WYAIT.....you must have all of those down already but think carefully before foregoing the standoof posts- the rubber biscuit mounting studds. No big shakes if they fail--- except for the work required to get back at em. And, they're still cheap!
WYAIT.....you must have all of those down already but think carefully before foregoing the standoof posts- the rubber biscuit mounting studds. No big shakes if they fail--- except for the work required to get back at em. And, they're still cheap!