I did disconnect the fuel lines from the rails.

As it turns out, I followed Stan's advice on these ( https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...9&goto=newpost ) and let them sit overnight in WD40.

This morning I took a small catsclaw and levered the rails out as gently as possible. 3 of 8 injectors came out with the rails, the remaining 5 are still stuck in the heads after slipping past the rail clips. Now I need advice on extracting the remaining injectors. What tool? I'm thinking about trying channel locks.

Regards,
Scott.

 

I assume you loosened the connections from the fuel rails to the fuel lines? See whether you can rotate each injector slightly in situ, the o-rings can definitely stick to the heads, maybe hit the bottom o-rings with some PB Blaster or similar until you can rotate them slightly. On both my early 32V and my GTS engines, the injectors came out still clipped to the rails as a unit, but I have had one or two lower o-rings stick in the head or tear during removal, which isn't a concern if you are refurbishing/reflowing them anyway. You may be able to rock the rails slightly back and forth to try to unstick them further from the heads. When reinstalling, place motor oil or Vaseline on the o-rings to ease installation and future removal.

 

Interesting time warp there on our posts in this thread...but one can't generally go wrong listening to Stan

I'm still trying to get the bolts loose from my broken upper bellhousing on the GT so I'd trade for injectors stuck in the heads any day...always stupid stuff such as some (non-)professional failing to apply anti-seize that gets in our way on these cars.

Hope the injectors surrender for you soon! I have 8 spares (16 if one counts the engine on the stand) for 85-86 if something goes too far wrong but I'm sure a little tender force will get 'em out.

 

I got all eight of them out this morning. The five that were stuck in surrendered to more WD40 and a small crowbar. I used a piece of 5/8" plywood as a fulcrum to protect the cam covers and gently levered them out. There's a lip on each injector at the base you can slide a crowbar under then pop them out.

I'd been thinking about replacing these stock injectors with the Ford 24# version but after this experience I'm thinking I'd rather have a metal injector body. I don't think plastic injectors would have stood up to being levered out with a crowbar. Anyone else have a dissenting opinion (based on experience of course

Scott.

 

Are you actually planning to remove the injectors again 25 years from now?

There was a recent thread discussing the merits of a now discontinued version of the Ford #24lb injector with the one that is now in production. One view expressed was that the new version takes 27 milliseconds longer to open than the stock Bosch injector and this is supposedly not good. I don't know of anyone who has experience with the new Ford injector. The older version now out of production has been used by several people and is purportedly fine.

 

Just for whatever it may be worth, I have found that a pair of spark plug boot pliers is a good way to controlled-pry stuck injectors out without breaking them or the Pintle caps.

 

Need a clue on how to get the Air Guide out of this thing. I've removed the two obvious nuts holding it down bu it's clear there's another bolt somewhere underneath it on the firewall side right about where the MAF slides in. Can't figure out where the fastener is or how to get at it.

Clues?

Also, does anyone no how to embed a picture in a reply instead of sending as an attachment?

Thanks,
Scott.

 

Yes, there is a 3rd bolt at back (firewall end) directly in the centre on the bottom. Same size as the other two (10mm IIRC) . If you clean the area out, remove some vac and other lines, you should be able to get it at reasonably easy.

 

Steve, thanks for the encouragement I did find the fastener early this morning behind what looks like a vacuum line that runs under the air guide. After moving the line I can see the 10mm bolt back under the curve of the AG. I've spent a couple of hours looking at it and I can't figure the trick. Take a look at the attached picture?

There's a hose bracket blocking access to the bolt head from the firewall side and it also blocks a nut driver from above. There isn't enough room to get my smallest 10 mm box wrench in from the side. I'm stumped.

Regards,
Scott.

 

Scott, that nut is just like the other two, holds the air guide down to the standoffs and then standoffs screw into the valley.

You might try a Gearwrench 10mm box wrench on it. They only need a few degrees of turn to get the ratchet going. I think that's what I used (also great for oil pan bolts). No affiliation.

 

Mike, thanks. My 10mm gear wrench is a little over 6" long and won't get in there. I'll see if I can find a shorter one, maybe with a bit of an angle on the head. I have SAE gear wrenches by Kastar that are a couple inches shorter and angled. If it worked for you I'll give it a try

Regards,
Scott.

 

Mike & Steve, thanks for the moral support. Sometimes it helps just to know that yes, it is a b*tch but that just the way it is. When I see stuff like this I always think "there must be something simple I just can't see here".

As it worked out, a stubby 10mm box end got the nut loose and the rest of it came out by hand. I think that completes my dis-assembly of the intake. Now I begin cleaning parts.

The valley on this engine hasn't seen the light of day in nearly 30 years and its filthy. Does anyone have advice on the best way to clean it? I'm thinking buckets of simple green, a nylon brush and a wet/dry vac. Is that about the best method or does someone have a trick?

Thanks again,
Scott.

 

...and patience and LOTS AND LOTS OF PAPER TOWELS!!!!

You got it.

 

Scott - mine was the same. Just make sure all openings are well plugged. I got in there with brake cleaner and other degreaser and lots of rags, brushing and elbow grease. I just did this over the last few weeks. My wife just shakes her head, but we all know we can't put this back together without a proper cleaning.

Here is some before and after pics. Sorry if the size is large - still a rookie at this picture posting.

 

Steve, you're doing a lot better than me on pictures. I can't figure out how to get them to display in-line like that. My guess is I need to send jpegs instead of pdf files but I can't get my jpegs to upload, I always get an "unsuported format" error so I send pdfs. I use a Mac, o I reduce the image sizes to 640x480 @ 72 dpi (most displays work fine at 72 dpi) with a program called Preview, then post the smaller files.

*** Update *** My problem was using Preview to reduce the jpegs. If I use Photoshop Rennlist will upload the reduced files.

Great job! I like the way you labeled all the cables and hoses. I trusted the parts catalog and I'm beginning to regret that. It seems the catalog doesn't show electrical connections, something I overlooked. I didn't notice the problem until I tried to find a part number for the cable that runs between the passenger side injector harness and the throttle position sensor. Mine has a broken connector on one end and I want to replace it but it isn't in the catalog.

There must be a catalog I don't have that calls out electrical harnesses. Anyone know where I could find it? I've attached a picture of the cable I'm looking for in case someone recognizes it and has a part number.

Regards,
Scott.