85-86 Intake Removal
#20
Rennlist Member
When I had it apart, I did the cam tower gaskets and the bolts w/the rubberized sealing washers. Get the washers from Fastenall, not Porsche. I wish I had powdered coated the intake while it was out. [edit days later] cam chain tensioner pads. Mine looked OK at 88K, but . . . I knew at the time the tower shoulder bolts were prone stripping. Only two of mine gave me trouble and I put antiseize everywhere, but why tempt Murphy again?
Last edited by SteveG; 07-18-2008 at 11:45 AM. Reason: change is good
#21
Craic Head
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I just used the stock bolt O-rings, the flat washers and then that thin washer that Bill Ball mentioned in a recent thread from a tech service update.
#22
Racer
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Ok, here's some pics of where I'm at I've ordered up some new injectors. I'm going to get a new ISV and maybe some replacement hoses.
Can someone tell me what this component is called? What does it do? It broke off during dissassembly.
Also what are the cable tie thingys called? P/N?
Thanks
Can someone tell me what this component is called? What does it do? It broke off during dissassembly.
Also what are the cable tie thingys called? P/N?
Thanks
#23
Burning Brakes
I believe that is the heater control valve (assuming that is the back of the passenger side of the engine).
There are numerous threads about alternative replacements - some good, some not so.
Change the coolant hose that connects to it while you are there.
Add fuel line replacements to your list - Roger at 928sRus has a kit that includes all the lines and clamps you need for a fair price (much less than Porsche replacements).
There are numerous threads about alternative replacements - some good, some not so.
Change the coolant hose that connects to it while you are there.
Add fuel line replacements to your list - Roger at 928sRus has a kit that includes all the lines and clamps you need for a fair price (much less than Porsche replacements).
#24
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I think the part in the red circle is the vacuum temp switch for the charcoal cannister fuel vapor recovery system. One port goes to the seven-way splitter (full vacuum) and the second port goes to the control valve located on the passenger side inner fender well.
I learned alot about the vacuum hose routing as it was so screwed up on my gold '86.5 when I purchased it. This was one area of the system that was mis-routed - the vacuum switch output was incorrectly hooked up to the transmission vacuum line!
I hope this helps.
Adam
I learned alot about the vacuum hose routing as it was so screwed up on my gold '86.5 when I purchased it. This was one area of the system that was mis-routed - the vacuum switch output was incorrectly hooked up to the transmission vacuum line!
I hope this helps.
Adam
#25
Burning Brakes
The vacuum routing as Adam mentioned sounds correct. I would also replace the gasket under it as it looks like it is leaking.
The connector on the fuel rail looks like a fabricated zip tie. on my MY 85' it has/had smaller yellow plastic connectors to route the injector harnes to the fuel injectors. Be carful W/ the harnes as it can be brittle. Try to reroute it in the same manner it was before.
The connector on the fuel rail looks like a fabricated zip tie. on my MY 85' it has/had smaller yellow plastic connectors to route the injector harnes to the fuel injectors. Be carful W/ the harnes as it can be brittle. Try to reroute it in the same manner it was before.
#26
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Thanks guys.
When I removed the intakes, I ended up with coolant everywhere. I expected the gas lines to
be drained and caught that with a ziplock, but there were brackets on both sides of the block
that were attached by one Socket head screw which also sealed the coolant and the vacume temp
switch. I had to undo that screw to release the bracket and coolant started coming out unexpetedly.
Is that normal?
As far as the fabricated zip tie, what is the intended Porsche method of fastening the FI harness to
the fuel rails?
When I removed the intakes, I ended up with coolant everywhere. I expected the gas lines to
be drained and caught that with a ziplock, but there were brackets on both sides of the block
that were attached by one Socket head screw which also sealed the coolant and the vacume temp
switch. I had to undo that screw to release the bracket and coolant started coming out unexpetedly.
Is that normal?
As far as the fabricated zip tie, what is the intended Porsche method of fastening the FI harness to
the fuel rails?
#27
Rennlist Member
Your sig doesn't say what MY and I'm too lazy to go back to the beginning of the thread, but I do know a couple of the intake bolts on the '85 go through the water jacket, so you will see coolant. I thought I had a cracked head and time stood still!!
Mike: the washer on the cam tower bolts has a rubberized backing on the side next to the cover. It may disappear or become so hard as to appear metalic on a 23 year old car.
Mike: the washer on the cam tower bolts has a rubberized backing on the side next to the cover. It may disappear or become so hard as to appear metalic on a 23 year old car.
#28
Craic Head
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Thanks guys.
When I removed the intakes, I ended up with coolant everywhere. I expected the gas lines to
be drained and caught that with a ziplock, but there were brackets on both sides of the block
that were attached by one Socket head screw which also sealed the coolant and the vacume temp
switch. I had to undo that screw to release the bracket and coolant started coming out unexpetedly.
Is that normal?
As far as the fabricated zip tie, what is the intended Porsche method of fastening the FI harness to
the fuel rails?
When I removed the intakes, I ended up with coolant everywhere. I expected the gas lines to
be drained and caught that with a ziplock, but there were brackets on both sides of the block
that were attached by one Socket head screw which also sealed the coolant and the vacume temp
switch. I had to undo that screw to release the bracket and coolant started coming out unexpetedly.
Is that normal?
As far as the fabricated zip tie, what is the intended Porsche method of fastening the FI harness to
the fuel rails?
There are different sized plastic clips that secure the harness along the fuel rails. They work as well as zip ties but are *slightly* more attractive. They have a button on the bottom that pops into the holes in the fuel rails. I'd call 928 intl, I'm sure they can tell you how many and what colors you need.
Your sig doesn't say what MY and I'm too lazy to go back to the beginning of the thread, but I do know a couple of the intake bolts on the '85 go through the water jacket, so you will see coolant. I thought I had a cracked head and time stood still!!
Mike: the washer on the cam tower bolts has a rubberized backing on the side next to the cover. It may disappear or become so hard as to appear metalic on a 23 year old car.
Mike: the washer on the cam tower bolts has a rubberized backing on the side next to the cover. It may disappear or become so hard as to appear metalic on a 23 year old car.
Thanks for the info though.
#29
I'm doing this now, just started this afternoon and have the intake distributors off so far. I'm guessing my next step will be the fuel rails and injectors, and that these should be removed and replaced together. Then the individual intake tubes come off. I'm taking pictures as I go and I'll post them when I'm done.
I'd like to know where Dwayne sent his intake to be powder coated? I really like the photos of his "silver vein/silver black" with red and yellow accents. My car is in central California so I'd hope the shop he used is on the west coast of the US. Any clues? Dwayne?
ref: https://rennlist.com/forums/928/4826...re-w-pics.html
Thanks,
Scott.
I'd like to know where Dwayne sent his intake to be powder coated? I really like the photos of his "silver vein/silver black" with red and yellow accents. My car is in central California so I'd hope the shop he used is on the west coast of the US. Any clues? Dwayne?
ref: https://rennlist.com/forums/928/4826...re-w-pics.html
Thanks,
Scott.
#30
on an 85/86 you are able to remove everything without removing the intake runners.
It can be abit tricky to do, but it is fully doable. You do not need to remove the fuel rails to do this, but if you want to remove them, you will need to remove the 2 bolts per side and the fuel line connections, then pry up. They get stuck in there pretty damn good.
It can be abit tricky to do, but it is fully doable. You do not need to remove the fuel rails to do this, but if you want to remove them, you will need to remove the 2 bolts per side and the fuel line connections, then pry up. They get stuck in there pretty damn good.
Do the injectors need to be unclipped from the rails first? I've heard people say they come out as an assembly but after that click I thought I'd ask before I broke something. It's a bit hard finding a good place to get leverage too.
Last edited by Pfc. Parts; 04-18-2013 at 03:22 PM.