90 GT suddenly running very rough
#106
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the thoughts. In my case the car ran well enough for a couple of thousand miles after the injectors, etc. work. Do you think it is a problem that could show up later on? Also, up to this point disconnecting the MAF has made a huge difference, do you think that would be true with the injector o-ring was an issue?
I definitely feel a bit more knowledge and understand the difference between the MAF disconnect limp home mode and the IMR LED 4 cylinder mode. The second has the potential negative consequences of vibration leading to TT failures, right?
Thanks for the thoughts. In my case the car ran well enough for a couple of thousand miles after the injectors, etc. work. Do you think it is a problem that could show up later on? Also, up to this point disconnecting the MAF has made a huge difference, do you think that would be true with the injector o-ring was an issue?
I definitely feel a bit more knowledge and understand the difference between the MAF disconnect limp home mode and the IMR LED 4 cylinder mode. The second has the potential negative consequences of vibration leading to TT failures, right?
The 4 cylinder mode operation is stated by Porsche to break TT's in 928s with automatic transmissions when run at 1K RPM.
#107
My 4-cylinder-mode problem was kind to me yesterday - in its way. I made it through my first DE at Lime Rock yesterday without a problem, but then the moment I pulled out of the park, it kicked into 4-cyl mode! I pulled over and checked for LEDs, and sure enough I had a green light on - left bank. I shut down and restarted to make sure I was looking at the right light, then about 15 seconds later it switched into ugly mode and the green light came on. I had to deal with it the whole way home... running rich and burning up $8.75/gallon 110 octane race gas at single-digit mpg the whole way!
So the O2 sensor reads the exhaust temperature? Stan, which bank was giving you problems? Did you replace the O2 sensor on the same side?
So the O2 sensor reads the exhaust temperature? Stan, which bank was giving you problems? Did you replace the O2 sensor on the same side?
left side coil: 1-4-6-7
right side coil: 2-3-5-8
The sensors produce a small voltage signal related to exhaust temperature. If a difference in the voltage output of the 2 sensors is greater than 6 mv (which equates to about 300F temperature difference), the system trips the relay which shuts of the fuel injectors to the cylinders served by the coil that serves the monitored cylinder and lighting an indicator LED. This shows which cylinder was determined to be colder and therefore which coil is suspect and which corresponding cylinders had their fuel injector signals disabled. We enter 4 cylinder mode. There is a delay of 15-20 seconds before the system is active on start-up.
left side: Red
right side: Green
So, a green LED indicates that the exhaust gas temperature cylinder 8 (3 in MY91+) was determined to be at least 300F colder than cylinder 4 (7 in MY91+).
One other thing - if the voltage difference is considerably greater than 6 mv, the system treats this as a defective sensor and trips the right side (Green) consistently. Pulling the relay and measuring resistance across the harness leads to and from the sensors may find an open circuit condition (bad sensor).
#108
The O2 sensor has nothing to do with tripping 4 cylinder mode (although the O2 sensor is disabled when running in 4 cylinder mode). This is a separate system. There are thermo sensors installed in the heads at the exhaust port of two cylinders from MY89 on that monitor the exhaust gas temperature of those cylinders. In 89 it was cylinders 4 and 8. In MY91 it was switched to cylinders 3 and 7. You can see them easily from underneath the car, and you will note unused plugged bungs under each exhaust outlet. The exhaust gas temperature monitoring is being used as a proxy for detecting ignition failure. One cylinder is served by the left side coil while the other is on the right side coil.
left side coil: 1-4-6-7
right side coil: 2-3-5-8
The sensors produce a small voltage signal related to exhaust temperature. If a difference in the voltage output of the 2 sensors is greater than 6 mv (which equates to about 300F temperature difference), the system trips the relay shutting of the fuel injectors to the cylinders served by the same coil that serves the monitored cylinder and lighting an indicator relay to show which cylinder was determiend to be colder and therefore which coil is suspect and which corresponding cylinders had their fuel injector signals disabled. We enter 4 cylinder mode. There is a delay of 15-20 seconds before the system is active on start-up.
left side: Red
right side: Green
So, a green LED indicates that the exhaust gas temperature cylinder 8 (3 in MY91+) was determined to be at least 300F colder than cylinder 4 (7 in MY91+).
One other thing - if the voltage difference is considerably greater than that, the system treats this as a defective sensor and trips the right side (Green) consistently. Pulling the relay and measuring resistance across the harness leads to and from the sensors mayu find an open circuit condition (bad sensor).
left side coil: 1-4-6-7
right side coil: 2-3-5-8
The sensors produce a small voltage signal related to exhaust temperature. If a difference in the voltage output of the 2 sensors is greater than 6 mv (which equates to about 300F temperature difference), the system trips the relay shutting of the fuel injectors to the cylinders served by the same coil that serves the monitored cylinder and lighting an indicator relay to show which cylinder was determiend to be colder and therefore which coil is suspect and which corresponding cylinders had their fuel injector signals disabled. We enter 4 cylinder mode. There is a delay of 15-20 seconds before the system is active on start-up.
left side: Red
right side: Green
So, a green LED indicates that the exhaust gas temperature cylinder 8 (3 in MY91+) was determined to be at least 300F colder than cylinder 4 (7 in MY91+).
One other thing - if the voltage difference is considerably greater than that, the system treats this as a defective sensor and trips the right side (Green) consistently. Pulling the relay and measuring resistance across the harness leads to and from the sensors mayu find an open circuit condition (bad sensor).
So - if mine sporadically goes into 4-cyl mode (meaning sometimes for no good reason, like when it's still cold, and other times like it means it - like yesterday all the way home from Lime Rock), then it seems to me likely to be a bad sensor or loose connection to it. Is this a sound assumption?
I looked through the parts list, but could not find this sensor anywhere. Can you help me find it so I know what to look for?
Also, how exactly would I measure sensor resistance from the relay? Which relay? Which poles should I compare?
Thanks so much for your help!
#109
Bill, you are awesome!
So - if mine sporadically goes into 4-cyl mode (meaning sometimes for no good reason, like when it's still cold, and other times like it means it - like yesterday all the way home from Lime Rock), then it seems to me likely to be a bad sensor or loose connection to it. Is this a sound assumption?
I looked through the parts list, but could not find this sensor anywhere. Can you help me find it so I know what to look for?
Also, how exactly would I measure sensor resistance from the relay? Which relay? Which poles should I compare?
Thanks so much for your help!
So - if mine sporadically goes into 4-cyl mode (meaning sometimes for no good reason, like when it's still cold, and other times like it means it - like yesterday all the way home from Lime Rock), then it seems to me likely to be a bad sensor or loose connection to it. Is this a sound assumption?
I looked through the parts list, but could not find this sensor anywhere. Can you help me find it so I know what to look for?
Also, how exactly would I measure sensor resistance from the relay? Which relay? Which poles should I compare?
Thanks so much for your help!
To check the sensors, first get under the car and make sure they are still snug where they screw into the head (see picture below). Then pull the plug off the relay. Look at the relay base and you will see the terminals are labelled. Moving over to the plug, test resistance between the corresponding terminals for E1 and E2. It should be about 2.5 ohms. If it is much higher (usually infinite if bad), one of the elements is broken or possibly disconnected. To figure out which one, you'd have to find where they plug in to the harness, which is behind the engine. Here's a picture of the driver (right) side sensor. You can feel along the sheathed lead and feel the plug, but it's not accessible from below. Below that pciture is a screen capture from the PET. Note these sensors were well over $200 each last time I checked.
#110
There's always the bypass relay...
#111
Scratch that - I was able to trace the sensor wire up the back of the head where it clips into an anchor. Then it goes into the harness right next to the MAF - never to be seen again. I was able to see the same lead on the right side but could not trace it anywhere.
I disconnected the left-side sensor at that retainer clip and measured about 3 Ohm across its two wires. I could not get at the right-side sensor wire connection - too much in the way for Popeye.
I disconnected the left-side sensor at that retainer clip and measured about 3 Ohm across its two wires. I could not get at the right-side sensor wire connection - too much in the way for Popeye.
#112
And another thing...
I am thinking that it's the relay or the sensors, not a real ignition problem. The car runs perfectly until it switches into 4-cyl mode. If there were a real problem causing the temp of one bank of cylinders to fail, I think I'd be aware of it. Could cylinder #8 failing by itself could go undetected? I'm new to V8s so I don't want to assume.
I am thinking that it's the relay or the sensors, not a real ignition problem. The car runs perfectly until it switches into 4-cyl mode. If there were a real problem causing the temp of one bank of cylinders to fail, I think I'd be aware of it. Could cylinder #8 failing by itself could go undetected? I'm new to V8s so I don't want to assume.
#113
Stan, that makes sense. The cold-idle loop runs for about a minute, then the LH kicks in and starts running the engine by the MAF sensor.
My 4-cylinder-mode problem was kind to me yesterday - in its way. I made it through my first DE at Lime Rock yesterday without a problem, but then the moment I pulled out of the park, it kicked into 4-cyl mode! I pulled over and checked for LEDs, and sure enough I had a green light on - left bank. I shut down and restarted to make sure I was looking at the right light, then about 15 seconds later it switched into ugly mode and the green light came on. I had to deal with it the whole way home... running rich and burning up $8.75/gallon 110 octane race gas at single-digit mpg the whole way!
So the O2 sensor reads the exhaust temperature? Stan, which bank was giving you problems? Did you replace the O2 sensor on the same side?
My 4-cylinder-mode problem was kind to me yesterday - in its way. I made it through my first DE at Lime Rock yesterday without a problem, but then the moment I pulled out of the park, it kicked into 4-cyl mode! I pulled over and checked for LEDs, and sure enough I had a green light on - left bank. I shut down and restarted to make sure I was looking at the right light, then about 15 seconds later it switched into ugly mode and the green light came on. I had to deal with it the whole way home... running rich and burning up $8.75/gallon 110 octane race gas at single-digit mpg the whole way!
So the O2 sensor reads the exhaust temperature? Stan, which bank was giving you problems? Did you replace the O2 sensor on the same side?
There are two EGT sensors, one on each side, they could be your problem. I didn't get to reviewing those, but there are some notes in this topic from others suggesting how to do so.
#114
ITS THE 02 SENSOR ON MINE 90S4
Hello Bill and other members i had the limp mode sporadic like you guys about a year ago .I had replaced everything in the ignition system and the problem was still there,until i traced it to the bosch o2 sensor .I paid 150.00 for the o2 and the problem went away and if you had not replaced one its a good chance that is the problem......
#115
The O2 sensor has nothing to do with tripping 4 cylinder mode (although the O2 sensor is disabled when running in 4 cylinder mode). This is a separate system. There are thermo sensors installed in the heads at the exhaust port of two cylinders from MY89 on that monitor the exhaust gas temperature of those cylinders. In 89 it was cylinders 4 and 8. In MY91 it was switched to cylinders 3 and 7. You can see them easily from underneath the car, and you will note unused plugged bungs under the exhaust port for all cylinders. The exhaust gas temperature monitoring is being used as a proxy for detecting ignition failure. One of the monitored cylinders is served by the left side coil while the other is on the right side coil.
left side coil: 1-4-6-7
right side coil: 2-3-5-8
The sensors produce a small voltage signal related to exhaust temperature. If a difference in the voltage output of the 2 sensors is greater than 6 mv (which equates to about 300F temperature difference), the system trips the relay which shuts of the fuel injectors to the cylinders served by the coil that serves the monitored cylinder and lighting an indicator LED. This shows which cylinder was determined to be colder and therefore which coil is suspect and which corresponding cylinders had their fuel injector signals disabled. We enter 4 cylinder mode. There is a delay of 15-20 seconds before the system is active on start-up.
left side: Red
right side: Green
So, a green LED indicates that the exhaust gas temperature cylinder 8 (3 in MY91+) was determined to be at least 300F colder than cylinder 4 (7 in MY91+).
One other thing - if the voltage difference is considerably greater than 6 mv, the system treats this as a defective sensor and trips the right side (Green) consistently. Pulling the relay and measuring resistance across the harness leads to and from the sensors may find an open circuit condition (bad sensor).
left side coil: 1-4-6-7
right side coil: 2-3-5-8
The sensors produce a small voltage signal related to exhaust temperature. If a difference in the voltage output of the 2 sensors is greater than 6 mv (which equates to about 300F temperature difference), the system trips the relay which shuts of the fuel injectors to the cylinders served by the coil that serves the monitored cylinder and lighting an indicator LED. This shows which cylinder was determined to be colder and therefore which coil is suspect and which corresponding cylinders had their fuel injector signals disabled. We enter 4 cylinder mode. There is a delay of 15-20 seconds before the system is active on start-up.
left side: Red
right side: Green
So, a green LED indicates that the exhaust gas temperature cylinder 8 (3 in MY91+) was determined to be at least 300F colder than cylinder 4 (7 in MY91+).
One other thing - if the voltage difference is considerably greater than 6 mv, the system treats this as a defective sensor and trips the right side (Green) consistently. Pulling the relay and measuring resistance across the harness leads to and from the sensors may find an open circuit condition (bad sensor).
While my resolutions is not confirmed enough to know for sure (as the car is still on jack stands). It does seems possible that replacing my O2 sensor correct my poor running issue and the resultant relay tripping. So, isn't it possible that a bad O2 sensor results in a poor mixture from the LH, and that may result in the IMR tripping (presumably from an over rich condition that gets recognized on one bank before the other)?
I think Dave Chamberland mentioned something similar earlier as well.
#116
#117
Well, sure I guess it's possible a bad O2 sensor might somehow cause the ignition monitoring relay to trip (although I'm not sure how). I just meant to indicate that it is not part of the monitoring system itself.
Hey Bill,
While my resolutions is not confirmed enough to know for sure (as the car is still on jack stands). It does seems possible that replacing my O2 sensor correct my poor running issue and the resultant relay tripping. So, isn't it possible that a bad O2 sensor results in a poor mixture from the LH, and that may result in the IMR tripping (presumably from an over rich condition that gets recognized on one bank before the other)?
I think Dave Chamberland mentioned something similar earlier as well.
While my resolutions is not confirmed enough to know for sure (as the car is still on jack stands). It does seems possible that replacing my O2 sensor correct my poor running issue and the resultant relay tripping. So, isn't it possible that a bad O2 sensor results in a poor mixture from the LH, and that may result in the IMR tripping (presumably from an over rich condition that gets recognized on one bank before the other)?
I think Dave Chamberland mentioned something similar earlier as well.
#118
And another thing...
I am thinking that it's the relay or the sensors, not a real ignition problem. The car runs perfectly until it switches into 4-cyl mode. If there were a real problem causing the temp of one bank of cylinders to fail, I think I'd be aware of it. Could cylinder #8 failing by itself could go undetected? I'm new to V8s so I don't want to assume.
I am thinking that it's the relay or the sensors, not a real ignition problem. The car runs perfectly until it switches into 4-cyl mode. If there were a real problem causing the temp of one bank of cylinders to fail, I think I'd be aware of it. Could cylinder #8 failing by itself could go undetected? I'm new to V8s so I don't want to assume.
The first time my ignition monitoring system tripped, I sensed a loss of power and the car downshifted strangely, but I kept going for 5 or 6 miles until it dawned on me. I actually had the carpet out of my car at the time, and I finally looked over and there was the green LED glowing brightly in the dark. I pulled over and killed the motor. On restart I had absolutely no problem with the car for about a month. Then it tripped again one day when I hit a bump on the way to work. It did it again a week later. Each of those times, I instantly knew what it was.
So, loss of power from 4 cylinders, which is pretty obvious to say the least, didn't stop me immediately...the first time. Hence, I fully understand why Porsche put this system in. Although dual coil 928s before 89 didn't have the monitoring system and we rarely hear about cat fires, they did and still do happen. One of our members had one on an 86 a few years ago when a coil shorted and he drove on.
After a series of 3 transient malfunctions, where the relay tripped, and upon stopping and restarting the car there was no problem at all for weeks, I disabled the system in my car. That was 3 years ago. I'm banking that I would recognize the ignition failure this system was designed to detect after the experience I've had.
#119
Supercharged
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 65
From: Back in Michigan - Full time!
I've had 3 experiences with the IMR tripping.
1: I had a bad coil wire ont he passenger-side that would get wet after washing the car. It would dry out and be OKAY. I've since replaced.
2: Coolant got into Cyl #7 becasue of a failed head. Pulled engine and fixed.
3: Just recently, I noticed upon cold start it will sometimes go into 4-cyl mode. I've since determined that the replacement O2 sensor I just put in must be bad as I've received the same engine code twice now, "Fuel mixture too rich." It was fine before this, just replaced the O2 sensor as I think it was original to the car.
1: I had a bad coil wire ont he passenger-side that would get wet after washing the car. It would dry out and be OKAY. I've since replaced.
2: Coolant got into Cyl #7 becasue of a failed head. Pulled engine and fixed.
3: Just recently, I noticed upon cold start it will sometimes go into 4-cyl mode. I've since determined that the replacement O2 sensor I just put in must be bad as I've received the same engine code twice now, "Fuel mixture too rich." It was fine before this, just replaced the O2 sensor as I think it was original to the car.
#120
Okie-doke...
After monkeying around with the left-bank sensor wire and checking the ignition monitoring relay, I went out for a long, spirited test drive and had no problems at all with tripping 4-cyl mode.
The next thing I'll do is check for any codes, especially O2 sensor codes (tomorrow AM on the way to work).
Bill, when I said I think I would notice a true ignition problem, I don't think I made myself clear... I meant that if there was a legitimate ignition problem, I would notice the change in performance it would cause before the IMR kicks me into 4-cyl mode (it's quite obvious that it's in that mode after it trips). My point being that I would notice something was "off" before the IMR would notice something is off and switch to 4-cyl mode. Therefore, I think I have a phantom problem with the IMR or EGT sensors rather than a real problem with the ignition system.
I'll also re-read the info on the exhaust gas temp sensors and see if there is anything else I can do to check them. Unfortunately, the engine will be waaaaaay too hot to test them if it were to trip into 4-cyl mode.
Thanks again everyone!
After monkeying around with the left-bank sensor wire and checking the ignition monitoring relay, I went out for a long, spirited test drive and had no problems at all with tripping 4-cyl mode.
The next thing I'll do is check for any codes, especially O2 sensor codes (tomorrow AM on the way to work).
Bill, when I said I think I would notice a true ignition problem, I don't think I made myself clear... I meant that if there was a legitimate ignition problem, I would notice the change in performance it would cause before the IMR kicks me into 4-cyl mode (it's quite obvious that it's in that mode after it trips). My point being that I would notice something was "off" before the IMR would notice something is off and switch to 4-cyl mode. Therefore, I think I have a phantom problem with the IMR or EGT sensors rather than a real problem with the ignition system.
I'll also re-read the info on the exhaust gas temp sensors and see if there is anything else I can do to check them. Unfortunately, the engine will be waaaaaay too hot to test them if it were to trip into 4-cyl mode.
Thanks again everyone!