View Poll Results: Pull the Holbert engine and transplant it with the 6.5 liter Rennlist engine?
Pull the engine and replace it now and start winning some races!
31
54.39%
Run the Holbert engine 'til it blows, or run mobil 1 in it and see what happens
3
5.26%
Replace it after this season
17
29.82%
Sell the Holbert car on the aution TV show and put the 6.5 liter in a stock S4 race car conversion
6
10.53%
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll
Should The Holbert 928 get an engine transplant mid season, or ever?
07-02-2008, 06:19 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Remember guys how LONG it often would take for DEVEK to build a stroker. And 6 weeks is what 12 weekend days , last I checked Kibort was still working a regular job, has a wife and children 
... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??
... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??In this case, I was under the impression that Mark had a complete motor that just needed a few things to finish up and put in the car. That not being the case brings a new wrinkle into it... Seems unlikely (unless you take a fair bit of well placed vacation and let the family know you will be MIA for 6 weeks) that this new stroker will be ready to go in time to complete the season on the podium!
I suggest spending a few extra $$$$ and getting some other parts to use so the Holbert motor can stay pretty complete and un-cannibalized.
Hope you can stay on the podium in total points and maybe even win a race before seasons end Mark!
Best,
07-02-2008, 06:37 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I dont know what those guys were doing, but I have done a bunch of installs before, and it doesnt take much time. my first 5 liter part euro was built quickly, and went in the car in a day. next day i drove it to tahoe, then it went to the dyno for some fine tuning and the next weekend I was at the POC Buttonwillow R5 races leading the race for many of the laps. never had a problem with that car, all race season, and that included 2 WC races.
Scot's went in without a hitch and has been racing it problem free all season.
I would imagine this would be similar. Unless I'm missing something.
The short block is done, and im thinking of just bolting everything on the Holbert car, on to this new engine, with the exception of the injectors, where Ill be using some 30lb'ers. I have cometic gaskets, and dont know how i feel about those, but they are supposed to be better. Any thoughts there? what does anderson/fan use? stock head gaskets? Ill put a seal on the tensioner and use oil this time, and put some new seals on the cam covers. other than that, i suspect it should be a bolt off, bolt on affair. I really dont care to enter the 420+ hp range, as i dont think the platform needs it nor can support it in many other areas. However, at 390 to 400rwhp, that would be plenty to support a winning SCCA ITE effort and put some hurt on a LOT of very fast cars out there. I figure, If i gained near 2 seconds with a 50hp shot of NOS a long time ago, 100hp might bring 2-3 seconds, or near 1:36s at Laguna, which is pretty darn fast for a stock chassis with stock brakes and street sport suspension.
I dont know about the tuning part. I would think that the RRFR could get the fuel ratio in the right range, and optimization for part throttle would be sufficient. If timing needs to be pulled out to prevent knocking, then further tuning would be required. I think Ive seen and heard many of the 6.5 liter set ups running with stock ECU settings, but with a fuel regulator. If i remember correctly , didnt anderson and Fan run their cars with out tuning for quite some time? (but always having the fuel ratios in the acceptable safety range?)
I dont have a real desire to deal with heads , as that just buys more HP and issues as far as im concerned. it seems that everyone is breaking stuff when they get in the 450 to 500rwhp range, and that makes sense. Andersons chassis can take full advantage of the 500rwhp, and so can his wallet, however, I think with some smart use of the power, i should be able to keep the tranmission and engine safe. Certainly, i dont want to go to the track without something pretty bullet proof, and all the components around the short block seem to be that way. If you look at all of the issues that most race teams have at the track, its usualy radiator, ignition, ECU dies, cant cycle ECU, injectors, engine miss, etc. Those parts that you see 95% of the time, are pretty well proven on this platform. Now, the question is, can the LH Jetronic and MAF support 20% more displacement?
All of the points made in this discussion are great ones. I'm now on the fence more than before.
Mk
Scot's went in without a hitch and has been racing it problem free all season.
I would imagine this would be similar. Unless I'm missing something.
The short block is done, and im thinking of just bolting everything on the Holbert car, on to this new engine, with the exception of the injectors, where Ill be using some 30lb'ers. I have cometic gaskets, and dont know how i feel about those, but they are supposed to be better. Any thoughts there? what does anderson/fan use? stock head gaskets? Ill put a seal on the tensioner and use oil this time, and put some new seals on the cam covers. other than that, i suspect it should be a bolt off, bolt on affair. I really dont care to enter the 420+ hp range, as i dont think the platform needs it nor can support it in many other areas. However, at 390 to 400rwhp, that would be plenty to support a winning SCCA ITE effort and put some hurt on a LOT of very fast cars out there. I figure, If i gained near 2 seconds with a 50hp shot of NOS a long time ago, 100hp might bring 2-3 seconds, or near 1:36s at Laguna, which is pretty darn fast for a stock chassis with stock brakes and street sport suspension.
I dont know about the tuning part. I would think that the RRFR could get the fuel ratio in the right range, and optimization for part throttle would be sufficient. If timing needs to be pulled out to prevent knocking, then further tuning would be required. I think Ive seen and heard many of the 6.5 liter set ups running with stock ECU settings, but with a fuel regulator. If i remember correctly , didnt anderson and Fan run their cars with out tuning for quite some time? (but always having the fuel ratios in the acceptable safety range?)
I dont have a real desire to deal with heads , as that just buys more HP and issues as far as im concerned. it seems that everyone is breaking stuff when they get in the 450 to 500rwhp range, and that makes sense. Andersons chassis can take full advantage of the 500rwhp, and so can his wallet, however, I think with some smart use of the power, i should be able to keep the tranmission and engine safe. Certainly, i dont want to go to the track without something pretty bullet proof, and all the components around the short block seem to be that way. If you look at all of the issues that most race teams have at the track, its usualy radiator, ignition, ECU dies, cant cycle ECU, injectors, engine miss, etc. Those parts that you see 95% of the time, are pretty well proven on this platform. Now, the question is, can the LH Jetronic and MAF support 20% more displacement?
All of the points made in this discussion are great ones. I'm now on the fence more than before.
Mk
Remember guys how LONG it often would take for DEVEK to build a stroker. And 6 weeks is what 12 weekend days , last I checked Kibort was still working a regular job, has a wife and children ... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??
... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??
07-02-2008, 06:56 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The short block is just that. Everything, including the oil pump, pickups, pan, heads, intake, everything, will be transfered over. in the end, i willl have a Holbert short block. After building a short block into a long block in only a couple of hours, I dont think that will be a big deal. I've done the cam timing and installed the cams in pretty short order. The only thing that i havent done is the intake on an S4.
Right now, i see oil temps of near 240 to 260F on the hotest days, and water temps are right between the lines during the races, so im not too concerned about oil temps, especially since the oil analysis came back so many times so positive.
The only risk here is that if the short block has issues. I already voiced my concerns, but Todd and Tim have assured me that its all correct as far as clearances. the pistons with .024" of space at the tops made me worry, but the skirts are supposed to be .004. I guess i could pull a piston and check, but Todd checked all this.
I might be looking at this situation with rose colored lenses, but if you look at what i have done, vs others that change a little too much before they go and race, i think I should be in good shape. I cant tell you of all the real hot cars, viper comp coupes, etc, that have shown up to run with us in the ITE races and have left after one or two sessions due to engine problems listed above.
thoughts?? Im still on the fence!
I would love to pull the motor this weekend. and spend the next week in the evenings building up the short block. with 2 weeks left, i could break it in for a few hours and then go to the dyno. Certainly more run time that most any race car gets! then, it would be off to Thunderhill for a race where i could probably finish well if short shifting would get me 350rwhp!
Mk
Right now, i see oil temps of near 240 to 260F on the hotest days, and water temps are right between the lines during the races, so im not too concerned about oil temps, especially since the oil analysis came back so many times so positive.
The only risk here is that if the short block has issues. I already voiced my concerns, but Todd and Tim have assured me that its all correct as far as clearances. the pistons with .024" of space at the tops made me worry, but the skirts are supposed to be .004. I guess i could pull a piston and check, but Todd checked all this.
I might be looking at this situation with rose colored lenses, but if you look at what i have done, vs others that change a little too much before they go and race, i think I should be in good shape. I cant tell you of all the real hot cars, viper comp coupes, etc, that have shown up to run with us in the ITE races and have left after one or two sessions due to engine problems listed above.
thoughts?? Im still on the fence!
I would love to pull the motor this weekend. and spend the next week in the evenings building up the short block. with 2 weeks left, i could break it in for a few hours and then go to the dyno. Certainly more run time that most any race car gets! then, it would be off to Thunderhill for a race where i could probably finish well if short shifting would get me 350rwhp!
Mk
07-02-2008, 09:43 PM
#37
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2002
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Obviously you will do a much better job of installing and tuning the engine if you do it on the off season.
So what's the big deal about winning this season?
Why not win next season, with your new engine properly installed and running?
As Jim pointed out, there is a significant chance that you will have some kind of minor or major problems of some kind. Maybe as simple as a leak, or some other tuning issue, but it could also be much worse. And I doubt you will be "taking it easy" on the new engine, in the middle of a race you really want to win. So you won't be backing off, just because it seems to be running strangely. But that may cost you the engine. But if you do your testing on the off season, you can do your testing on a dyno, and keep an eye on A/F ratios, etc. If something is not working exactly right, you can take the time to figure out what it is. There will be no rush.
The only reason you want to rush the install, is because you want to win.
It's purely an ego-driven motivation.
Logic dictates that you do it right.
If you want to do it now, be willing to drop out of the next race or two, if the car is not running perfectly after you get the engine installed. That's the only way I think you can safely take this on right now. Take the time to do it right. Maybe it will only take you a couple days, and it may work great. But be prepared to drop out of this season completely, if something goes wrong with the engine installation. What if the engine does not work right, so you try to put the Holbert engine back together, but then it does not work right either? You need to realize that things may go wrong, and be willing to take the time to fix them properly, even if that means missing races and losing points.
So what's the big deal about winning this season?
Why not win next season, with your new engine properly installed and running?
As Jim pointed out, there is a significant chance that you will have some kind of minor or major problems of some kind. Maybe as simple as a leak, or some other tuning issue, but it could also be much worse. And I doubt you will be "taking it easy" on the new engine, in the middle of a race you really want to win. So you won't be backing off, just because it seems to be running strangely. But that may cost you the engine. But if you do your testing on the off season, you can do your testing on a dyno, and keep an eye on A/F ratios, etc. If something is not working exactly right, you can take the time to figure out what it is. There will be no rush.
The only reason you want to rush the install, is because you want to win.
It's purely an ego-driven motivation.
Logic dictates that you do it right.
If you want to do it now, be willing to drop out of the next race or two, if the car is not running perfectly after you get the engine installed. That's the only way I think you can safely take this on right now. Take the time to do it right. Maybe it will only take you a couple days, and it may work great. But be prepared to drop out of this season completely, if something goes wrong with the engine installation. What if the engine does not work right, so you try to put the Holbert engine back together, but then it does not work right either? You need to realize that things may go wrong, and be willing to take the time to fix them properly, even if that means missing races and losing points.
07-02-2008, 09:44 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I know mark A has made a habit of doing this. I think an engine always needs to show up and race. Nothing can really prepare it for a race day, other than 5hours of driving and a dyno run or two. most of the time, Andersons engine only gets a dyno run and a few practice laps before his races on the new gear. Sure, he has it dialed in , but still, I dont think it had much tuning originally when it was only 420 RWHP. in fact, joe has been at the track, swapping out old stock S4 computers and has raced in this form before. so are you talking about
as was mentioned, i wonder what kind of issues i could expect by just building this engine up and sticking it in and running it.
Remember, in racing, there is always a chance that the car will break. Anderson went to RA and blew a intake, which leaned it out , which blew the motor. before that, he stripped 3rd gear at laguna. Joe at laguna, chased a ghost, that turned out to be a slipped timing belt or broken harmonic balancer.
Most all of the things that go wrong are not the engine bottom end or rough tuning. Do you think there would be any issue going to a dyno and checking the fuel air ratios. more than likely, they would be healthy without much tuning.
mk
as was mentioned, i wonder what kind of issues i could expect by just building this engine up and sticking it in and running it.
Remember, in racing, there is always a chance that the car will break. Anderson went to RA and blew a intake, which leaned it out , which blew the motor. before that, he stripped 3rd gear at laguna. Joe at laguna, chased a ghost, that turned out to be a slipped timing belt or broken harmonic balancer.
Most all of the things that go wrong are not the engine bottom end or rough tuning. Do you think there would be any issue going to a dyno and checking the fuel air ratios. more than likely, they would be healthy without much tuning.
mk
Remember guys how LONG it often would take for DEVEK to build a stroker. And 6 weeks is what 12 weekend days , last I checked Kibort was still working a regular job, has a wife and children ... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??
... I have seen cars taken to the track without any shakedown time and it OFTEN is not pretty. Very nice of all of you to offer your help and it probably can be done but a lot of things have to happen for it to be right. Running 2nd or 3rd is far better than not running at all !! Mark do you have a gasket set ?? the correct head gaskets ??
07-02-2008, 09:46 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good and valid points. Those are all things I know I have to agree to before I start this project. it seems simple, but it could have some glitches and I have to deal with them in the Logical way! (not the ego way) And, I'm ok with that.
Mk
Mk
Obviously you will do a much better job of installing and tuning the engine if you do it on the off season.
So what's the big deal about winning this season?
Why not win next season, with your new engine properly installed and running?
As Jim pointed out, there is a significant chance that you will have some kind of minor or major problems of some kind. Maybe as simple as a leak, or some other tuning issue, but it could also be much worse. And I doubt you will be "taking it easy" on the new engine, in the middle of a race you really want to win. So you won't be backing off, just because it seems to be running strangely. But that may cost you the engine. But if you do your testing on the off season, you can do your testing on a dyno, and keep an eye on A/F ratios, etc. If something is not working exactly right, you can take the time to figure out what it is. There will be no rush.
The only reason you want to rush the install, is because you want to win.
It's purely an ego-driven motivation.
Logic dictates that you do it right.
If you want to do it now, be willing to drop out of the next race or two, if the car is not running perfectly after you get the engine installed. That's the only way I think you can safely take this on right now. Take the time to do it right. Maybe it will only take you a couple days, and it may work great. But be prepared to drop out of this season completely, if something goes wrong with the engine installation. What if the engine does not work right, so you try to put the Holbert engine back together, but then it does not work right either? You need to realize that things may go wrong, and be willing to take the time to fix them properly, even if that means missing races and losing points.
So what's the big deal about winning this season?
Why not win next season, with your new engine properly installed and running?
As Jim pointed out, there is a significant chance that you will have some kind of minor or major problems of some kind. Maybe as simple as a leak, or some other tuning issue, but it could also be much worse. And I doubt you will be "taking it easy" on the new engine, in the middle of a race you really want to win. So you won't be backing off, just because it seems to be running strangely. But that may cost you the engine. But if you do your testing on the off season, you can do your testing on a dyno, and keep an eye on A/F ratios, etc. If something is not working exactly right, you can take the time to figure out what it is. There will be no rush.
The only reason you want to rush the install, is because you want to win.
It's purely an ego-driven motivation.
Logic dictates that you do it right.
If you want to do it now, be willing to drop out of the next race or two, if the car is not running perfectly after you get the engine installed. That's the only way I think you can safely take this on right now. Take the time to do it right. Maybe it will only take you a couple days, and it may work great. But be prepared to drop out of this season completely, if something goes wrong with the engine installation. What if the engine does not work right, so you try to put the Holbert engine back together, but then it does not work right either? You need to realize that things may go wrong, and be willing to take the time to fix them properly, even if that means missing races and losing points.
07-02-2008, 10:03 PM
#40
Former Vendor
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Mark,
Please listen to Jim and others who say wait. Rushing around to get this done and risking so much is just plain not worth it. You must test the car and make sure everything is running right afterwards.
And breaking the motor is not the only possible problem. John Veninger broke his trans with all the extra HP/TQ he was making with his new to him stroker at the Sebring races.
Remember, this kind of change has effects on the whole car.
Constantine
Please listen to Jim and others who say wait. Rushing around to get this done and risking so much is just plain not worth it. You must test the car and make sure everything is running right afterwards.
And breaking the motor is not the only possible problem. John Veninger broke his trans with all the extra HP/TQ he was making with his new to him stroker at the Sebring races.
Remember, this kind of change has effects on the whole car.
Constantine
07-02-2008, 10:09 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am listening. Believe me the easier way is to wait as well.
How much HP was JV making? Im hoping for only around 400rwhp, and would be very happy of 390rwhp! I know the torque breaks things, but if i roll the throttle on after shifts, as well as the fact that im limited by traction on some turns anyway, it would be easy to match the same power (torque) to the wheels as i have now. this way, I could come off the turns as i do now and roll the throttle , and then wait til the upper rpms to floor it. or use the floored position only for "Push for Pass".
mk
How much HP was JV making? Im hoping for only around 400rwhp, and would be very happy of 390rwhp! I know the torque breaks things, but if i roll the throttle on after shifts, as well as the fact that im limited by traction on some turns anyway, it would be easy to match the same power (torque) to the wheels as i have now. this way, I could come off the turns as i do now and roll the throttle , and then wait til the upper rpms to floor it. or use the floored position only for "Push for Pass".
mk
Mark,
Please listen to Jim and others who say wait. Rushing around to get this done and risking so much is just plain not worth it. You must test the car and make sure everything is running right afterwards.
And breaking the motor is not the only possible problem. John Veninger broke his trans with all the extra HP/TQ he was making with his new to him stroker at the Sebring races.
Remember, this kind of change has effects on the whole car.
Constantine
Please listen to Jim and others who say wait. Rushing around to get this done and risking so much is just plain not worth it. You must test the car and make sure everything is running right afterwards.
And breaking the motor is not the only possible problem. John Veninger broke his trans with all the extra HP/TQ he was making with his new to him stroker at the Sebring races.
Remember, this kind of change has effects on the whole car.
Constantine
07-02-2008, 10:21 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
Mark............whats the condition of the current engine; compression, h/p etc. If alls good my position would be to leave as is and do the work off race season.
You live in CA so getting road time is no issue for testing, running in etc and by next spring ready to rock.
I also support JB's position and get yourself an S4 engine; check out Mikes RennWish offer currently posted at the top of the page.
You live in CA so getting road time is no issue for testing, running in etc and by next spring ready to rock.
I also support JB's position and get yourself an S4 engine; check out Mikes RennWish offer currently posted at the top of the page.
07-02-2008, 10:30 PM
#43
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I vote that you wait.
If you need two seconds at Laguna/Thill/Sears, why not get rid of the trashcan RA-1's and buy
a set of Kumho V710's? Friends who've tried them say they're worth about that much per lap over the Toyos.
Plus even if you plop your heads/cam/intake on the 6.5L bottom end there's no guarantee that you'll make the extra 70 hp. It's also my understanding that Rylan is running an artificially low rev limit. All he'd have to do is go back to the stock S2000 redline and he'd have a power advantage again.
For this year, I think it's best to use the strategy that's gotten you this far, which has been good driving and reliability. Then take your time over the winter to methodically build up that 6.5L & get ready for the assault next year.
After seeing all that went into building up my engine, it's hard for me to imagine compressing that into a few weeks. Would you run your new engine without crank scrapers? Pan spacer? Accusump? Breather mods?
If you need two seconds at Laguna/Thill/Sears, why not get rid of the trashcan RA-1's and buy
a set of Kumho V710's? Friends who've tried them say they're worth about that much per lap over the Toyos. Plus even if you plop your heads/cam/intake on the 6.5L bottom end there's no guarantee that you'll make the extra 70 hp. It's also my understanding that Rylan is running an artificially low rev limit. All he'd have to do is go back to the stock S2000 redline and he'd have a power advantage again.
For this year, I think it's best to use the strategy that's gotten you this far, which has been good driving and reliability. Then take your time over the winter to methodically build up that 6.5L & get ready for the assault next year.
After seeing all that went into building up my engine, it's hard for me to imagine compressing that into a few weeks. Would you run your new engine without crank scrapers? Pan spacer? Accusump? Breather mods?
07-02-2008, 10:30 PM
#44
I must have not kept up with the current news on the stroker. I assumed Mark has an entire engine ready to go..... Didn't realize that the Holbert engine would have to be torn down to make the new one go.
Hmmm.
Hmmm.
07-03-2008, 12:42 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think there has been too many racers that have spent the $1500 for new toyos, or a set of brand new hoosier R6s to show that there really is not much of a difference. I think Rob in the vet, who bought a new set found a second on them, as well as my line through 6 which was my last great advantage over him 
. I would say that the V710s might be as fast as the new hoosiers, but even that would only be a second at best.
I would think that the new bottom end should get the car to 390rwhp at least. after all, its the same bottom end that anderson ran, but less the 968 valves and 1mm lift cams. even after porting the intake and TB, he still only got 420rwhp.
as far as getting it together in a few weeks. Im not doing any of the experimental cam work you did, and I know how to get the cams in and adjusted quickly. I dont really think the crank scraper is needed nor anything else. after all, i have been racing as is, and wont be increasing the cornering ability. only straight line acceleration. Actually, the RPM range that will be used might go down a tad, but I have to say, after shifting at redline over the past 8 races, im sure getting used to that sound! (see latest video below)
So, it might make good sense to open her up after the season. who knows, maybe Rob will get a flat tire and Rylan might melt that 2.2 liter with 395rwhp!
Yes, Rylan has his redline set at 8000rpm so he can get 360rwhp. at 8900, he gets the 395, but he has to re-flash the ecu if he needs it. Thats ok. I think his peakier HP, even with his lighter weight, might not be able to keep up with the Holbert machine with 400rwhp.
I hear the message loud and clear. If i take my time in the installation, I might be able to do some intake port matching, shark tuning to make sure i get this thing over 400 reliable rwhp!
mk
. I would say that the V710s might be as fast as the new hoosiers, but even that would only be a second at best. I would think that the new bottom end should get the car to 390rwhp at least. after all, its the same bottom end that anderson ran, but less the 968 valves and 1mm lift cams. even after porting the intake and TB, he still only got 420rwhp.
as far as getting it together in a few weeks. Im not doing any of the experimental cam work you did, and I know how to get the cams in and adjusted quickly. I dont really think the crank scraper is needed nor anything else. after all, i have been racing as is, and wont be increasing the cornering ability. only straight line acceleration. Actually, the RPM range that will be used might go down a tad, but I have to say, after shifting at redline over the past 8 races, im sure getting used to that sound! (see latest video below)
So, it might make good sense to open her up after the season. who knows, maybe Rob will get a flat tire and Rylan might melt that 2.2 liter with 395rwhp!
Yes, Rylan has his redline set at 8000rpm so he can get 360rwhp. at 8900, he gets the 395, but he has to re-flash the ecu if he needs it. Thats ok. I think his peakier HP, even with his lighter weight, might not be able to keep up with the Holbert machine with 400rwhp.
I hear the message loud and clear. If i take my time in the installation, I might be able to do some intake port matching, shark tuning to make sure i get this thing over 400 reliable rwhp!
mk
I vote that you wait.
If you need two seconds at Laguna/Thill/Sears, why not get rid of the trashcan RA-1's and buy a set of Kumho V710's? Friends who've tried them say they're worth about that much per lap over the Toyos.
Plus even if you plop your heads/cam/intake on the 6.5L bottom end there's no guarantee that you'll make the extra 70 hp. It's also my understanding that Rylan is running an artificially low rev limit. All he'd have to do is go back to the stock S2000 redline and he'd have a power advantage again.
For this year, I think it's best to use the strategy that's gotten you this far, which has been good driving and reliability. Then take your time over the winter to methodically build up that 6.5L & get ready for the assault next year.
After seeing all that went into building up my engine, it's hard for me to imagine compressing that into a few weeks. Would you run your new engine without crank scrapers? Pan spacer? Accusump? Breather mods?
If you need two seconds at Laguna/Thill/Sears, why not get rid of the trashcan RA-1's and buy
a set of Kumho V710's? Friends who've tried them say they're worth about that much per lap over the Toyos. Plus even if you plop your heads/cam/intake on the 6.5L bottom end there's no guarantee that you'll make the extra 70 hp. It's also my understanding that Rylan is running an artificially low rev limit. All he'd have to do is go back to the stock S2000 redline and he'd have a power advantage again.
For this year, I think it's best to use the strategy that's gotten you this far, which has been good driving and reliability. Then take your time over the winter to methodically build up that 6.5L & get ready for the assault next year.
After seeing all that went into building up my engine, it's hard for me to imagine compressing that into a few weeks. Would you run your new engine without crank scrapers? Pan spacer? Accusump? Breather mods?