Hi Roger,

I am sending the cash now

ta

 

How big (i.e., long) of a job is this for a mechanic to do? Is there any while-you're-at-it synergy in doing springs & shocks as well?

 

Ive already done my springs and shocks, brand new

 

Don't know about mechanic's time, but oil pan gasket and steering rack are
good things to do at the same time.

 

Any help in identifying these???

 

They look like the old Rockauto MM's. The pin on the bottom needs cutting off and as long as they do not slosh when shaken they should be OK

 

The oil pan gasket should definitely be done at this time. As for the steering rack, I found that most of the wetness on mine was from engine oil leaking on it and the only real issue I had with it were a couple of the bushings were shot. Since I haven't lost fluid from the rack, I left it alone.

 

Is there a good reason to change the MM's from the old style (square ones) to the new style (round ones) including the cross mount? I have it all out of the car now. Time for some decisionmaking.

 

Price and reliability favors solid mounts.

 

I have found on the pre 83 cars that in most cases the original square solid mounts are still good after all these years. I see no real benefit to change the setup on the older cars.
You may need to change the additional engine shocks which I happen to sell for $75.99 each 8>)

 

Roger,

Do the ones you sell require any trimming or new hardware?

 

No trimming and comes with new hardware.
Some people have reported that the stud on the bottom may be slightly longer than stock and possibly hit part of the steering rack. It may be a good idea to trim a couple of mm of the lower stud to be absolutly 100%. I never have and have had no problems. Easier to do it out of the car than in.

 

Rog,
That happened to mine, only on the driver's side though.

 

Roger-

Have you (or anyone else for that matter...) identified a reliable source for a hydraulic replacement for the hydraulic originals? Most of the threads about the aftermarket mounts focused on the imported mounts from Rock Auto. Is there a reliable domestic hydraulic mount that will last longer than the leaky RA gems? Mine are OK (Porsche mounts a few years in the car now...) but others ask pretty regularly. I like the hydraulic mounts so we don't need to retrofit the early $75.99-from-Roger to the later car when solid mounts are sub'd in. [shields up!]

 

The whole problem with the hydraulic MM's is that they leak and collapse.
Most do and some don't.
Anchor and Corteco supply a hydrauilc MM but why fit it if it is going to fail prematurly?
The difference in "feel" between solid and hydraulic is non existent so why take the chance?
Solid cannot fail - hydraulic can. Solid was used up until 83 and most are still good.
Nobody makes MM's in the USA now because of poor quality and high price.
Overseas suppliers offer much better quality at a lower price - sorry.
Seems to fit a lot of products these days 8>(