robot808

bled again the other night. goes much quicker now. weather has been awful, so i am still waiting to road test.
keep me posted 928andRC51, i want to hear a success story.
nosnow, when you say you put the rear higher, you mean while bleeding right? or ride height?
thanks,

nosnow

I only had the rear higher during bleeding. I just found because of where the fluid connector to the master is the fluid would go down a little during the bleed process and I'd get an air bubble. Putting the rear higher allowed more fluid to be in the front of the res.

mark kibort

scot bled his at the shop yesterday, said the pedal came back just like it did when i pushed in the slave plunger, but eventually went down a bit. (pedal went down). by the way, his fluid was pretty dirty looking. since his pedal is so easy to push down, im thinking that the pedal spring tension is not correct, so had him tighten up that wing nut, to put less pressure down on the pedal. (3 turns) . what if the spring in the Master is getting tired, or it is leaking, maybe what he needs is a new master? (or new guts as was discussed). any chance that a new slave can help things out to?

mk

robot808

Mark,
I think that one of the problems with this system is that the problem could be anywhere. Slave rebuild kits are cheap, new slave cylinders aren't that bad either. I am sure you could install it in minutes. My feeling is that the spring wouldn't effect the pedal dropping much if the hydraulics were right. I think the WSM calls for a 43mm gap at that spring though.
Today is a beautiful day in Chicago, so I took my car for a ride to work. I stopped at a drive thru. While I was pulling up to the window my clutch pedal slammed into the firewall with a giant thud. I freaked. I instantly assumed some kind of catastrophic hydraulic failure.
Turns out, in my haste to bleed, I forgot to put the E-clip that holds the rod on the pedal back. Really scared the crap out of me though.
Anyway, here's to hoping the clutch will still work tomorrow.
Keep me posted guys, I wanna hear positive results.

Landseer

My clutch rebuild included almost everything.

Had to come back and do the master innards. And bleed a few times.

But it took some run-in of the discs to make the system reliable. Taught my younger daughter to drive it, she heated-it up pretty extensively over the course of 45 minutes. Now its great.

marton

Been reading this thread with interest, recently put on new master, blue hose & flexible tube & new fluid. Not the slave because this was changed relatively recently.

Only changed the master because I had to change the brake master & I managed to pull the blue hose connector out of the clutch master; don't ask...

Despite trying all the bleeding ideas here (except removing everything & doing it on the bench) I still can not get it into gear or easily change gear first thing in the morning. I have to start it in gear.....
The strange thing is after a few miles the whole gear change system works easily & perfectly.

Marton

shmark

That's because the fluid heats up and expands, reducing the air problem. The only fix is to get the air out completely, and bleeding the master is the quickest thing to try and it usually takes several attempts to get it working well. If that fails then it takes removing the system as a whole and bench bleeding it, using Stan's method.

Ispeed

Update, still 100% after 400 miles this weekend.

mark kibort

so whats it like doing the master inners from the inside of the car?

mk

UKKid35

Very easy. The difficult part is finding the right seals. The ones I was suppled from a UK vendor were not the same as those in my clutch. However I couldn't see any damage to the original seals so I reused them and now it is working perfectly.

marton

Mark posted
OK, I will try that again

marton

Landseer

Master innards. Quick and easy. But, I had it out, thoroughly cleaned, and replaced with new seals first. The seals were from a NAPA kit, they were wrong and old-feeling.

Eventualy had to buy a new cylinder to get new innards.

shmark

Literally 10 minutes, 20 if you're never done it. Don't bother with buying seals, just buy a new master from one of the suppliers and use the guts to replace the existing one. 30 seconds with a set of snap ring pliers and you'll have it apart and know exactly what to do. Then dive into the footwell with a bunch of rags to soak up the fluid, pop out the snap ring (pushrod holds it in place), then pop off the pushrod and slowly let it out. Installation is the reverse.

Of course this only works if the existing barrel is still good. If you still have problems then it's a bit more involved to replace the whole thing. See Stan's method.

928FIXER

Very interesting.We get the same problem everytime someone opens up the clutch system.I've done a hundred or more repairs to clutch systems and never have had a problem.I saw the design problem the first time I had to bleed one.Its very simple,put the fluid in from the bottom,it will force all,repeat ALL the air out thru the master cyclinder

robot808

Well, three days in a row and the pedal feels better than ever! The last time I bled I did something really dumb. I knew what would happen, but I did it anyway. I bled from the master with the powerbleeder on. Of course fluid sprayed everywhere, but I had everything covered. Not sure if it helped at all, but my pedal has stayed firm this time.
I will keep you posted.

Mark, I did the master rebuild kit, seals were the wrong size. I ended up replacing the guts from a new MC. I did use the rebuild kit in the slave, I do feel good about that one.