dual disk clutch install help
#1
dual disk clutch install help
I am having much trouble installing the dd in my car. i cant get the driveshaft coupler and the clutch setup into the car. there must be something i am missing. do i have to unbolt the torque tube and tranny and move backwards to do this? please help.
James
James
#3
If you got the old one out, the new one should go back in. If you're still having trouble when I get home from work in a few hours I'll look up the thread where I got LOTS of help getting the old clutch out and the new one in.
Here's some stuff I put on my website from it:
http://members.rennlist.com/njsharkf...move_1985.html
#4
the whole thing goes up as a unit. have the shaft off to the side, until you get the clutch up there to clear the torque tube, then, fiddle around with it until it goes in the hole. then, line up the holes for the clutch to flywheel bolts and get a few starte by a few threads. then, install the rest of them an the clutch will sinch itself down, regardless if you are using those pins. (which do make it a bit easier, but are not required) if the short shaft is not alined in this process, it will jam at an angle. make sure its in the pilot bearing before screwing the clutch to flywheel bolts in
thats all i remember.
mk
thats all i remember.
mk
#6
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This much is clear..."I do not know anything about pressure plate shims" you might want to read the manuals it makes life a lot less challenging. New pressure plates come with the shims in place but three bent nails (heads removed ) work equally well keeping the pressure plate from extending fully is what it is all about.
#7
I really think you dont need to move the transmission, but it works, knock yourself out.
Ive done this a bunch of times, and its a fight but it always seems to go together. the shaft should go into the pilot bearing even with the torque tube sticking out the way it does. you just have to move things around until it fits in. your arms will get tired, but eventually it will go in, and then like i said attach one of the flywheel/clutch bolts and you are home free.
good luck!
Ive done this a bunch of times, and its a fight but it always seems to go together. the shaft should go into the pilot bearing even with the torque tube sticking out the way it does. you just have to move things around until it fits in. your arms will get tired, but eventually it will go in, and then like i said attach one of the flywheel/clutch bolts and you are home free.
good luck!
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#8
If it was far enough back to get the old one out, you should be able to get the new one in. Having said that, I unbolted the tranny in mine at the rear and at the four bell housing bolts and moved the driveshaft back to get mine out because I couldn't get the locator pins out and it was hanging up.
If you got the old one out, the new one should go back in. If you're still having trouble when I get home from work in a few hours I'll look up the thread where I got LOTS of help getting the old clutch out and the new one in.
Here's some stuff I put on my website from it:
http://members.rennlist.com/njsharkf...move_1985.html
If you got the old one out, the new one should go back in. If you're still having trouble when I get home from work in a few hours I'll look up the thread where I got LOTS of help getting the old clutch out and the new one in.
Here's some stuff I put on my website from it:
http://members.rennlist.com/njsharkf...move_1985.html
#9
Wot Jim said
Make little U shaped brackets from a wire coat hanger to place under the three metal post heads to keep the clutch pressure plate from pressing against the bolts that you have to remove to detach the clutch assembly from the flywheel. They are described in the manual. When you reassemble the clutch, be sure to include those wire brackets; it makes the assembly much easier.
Marton
HTML Code:
..."I do not know anything about pressure plate shims"
Marton
#10
I made mine from 1/2" wide aluminum L-bracket material from an Ace hardware store, used to reinforce the edges of plywood sheet. It's pretty soft stuff, easily dremeled down to size (which are shown in the WSM).
#13
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From: Anaheim California
There are three large "rivets" which hold the pressure plate together you place the U shaped wire under the heads. Easy when it is bolted to a flywheel and compressed. Off the car you need to compress it with a big c clamp or vise then insert the U wire.
#14
So it's analgous to the S4 PP, but the you just use wire shims instead of the fancypants S4+ 'upgraded' shims?
Sorry for being obtuse, I'm hopeless unless I have a picture to look at.
Sorry for being obtuse, I'm hopeless unless I have a picture to look at.
#15
Thanks
For the shims, I used 10AWG copper wire (lose the insulation and bend it in a U-shape) then use the c-clamp technique Jim described, slide them in under the T-shaped thingys, release clamp. Then when you bolt it to the flywheel it will compress and the shims will fall out.
For the shims, I used 10AWG copper wire (lose the insulation and bend it in a U-shape) then use the c-clamp technique Jim described, slide them in under the T-shaped thingys, release clamp. Then when you bolt it to the flywheel it will compress and the shims will fall out.