Mrmerlin

My 84 has 3 water pump bolts stuck in the block, I drilled the heads off of 2 of the bolts to remove the old water pump, the unseen bolt was simply globbed over with silicone on the last pump job.
So I have 2 bolts that can be grabbed with vice grips and the third bolt has a bit more than 1/4 inch above the block surface.
I have been heating the block with Mapp gas and soaking the bolts in PB blaster but so far nothings moving.
The block seems to suck up heat so fast that its hard to keep things hot.
In the shop we used a welder to weld on a nut to the stud and this usually got it out but i dont have a welder.
Does anyone have any other suggestions other than drilling the remaining bolts out , this would be a last resort. Thanks for your time, Stan

SeanR

I've had luck with a small drill bit on the bolt, and then using a reverse drill bit to bite into it. Good luck on finding one though, everyone looks at you funny when you ask if they have one.

Cheap and quick is using the Craftsman easy out. The kit I have has 5 sizes and the smallest one would work good on this. Have not had to try it on the WP bolts though. *knock on wood*

ZEUS+

I always mig a nut, drill or dremmel. This might grab it.
http://www.tools-plus.com/irwin-strait-line-394001.html

SeanR

Those are fantastic if there is a portion protruding out of the area you are trying to get at. And for rounded nuts/bolts.

Adam Geist

If welding a nut is the last resort try what my brother did with success. He had a couple of bolts snap off fairly close to the block. He tied a small piece of rag around the bolt and soaked it daily for a few days with Kroil. After this, he was able to remove the bolts easily with a pair of vise-grips.

Bill's recent post of a 1 to 1 mix of ATF and acetone might be worth a try.

Either way, I would clean as much of the silicone away from the remaining bolt so the penetrating oil has a chance to reach the threads.

Hope this helps,
Adam

docmirror

Use a small cut off wheel to get the shaft flush if possible. Left had drill bits are not hard to find at Harbor Freight or Western Tool. Start drilling with the left hand bit, sometimes the bolt backs out on it's own. If not, drill it to the largest size without buggering the threads, and then start with a curved dental pick on the remaining bolt thread. If it doesn't uncoil all the way, you may have to retap it.

BTDT.

jcorenman

Stan,

Try heating the bolts not the block. It's counter-intuitive but has worked for me in similar situations. I think what happens is that the corrosion insulates the bolt from the heat-sink effect of the aluminum, so the bolt heats and expands slightly relative to the aluminum-- which breaks up the corrosion a bit and gives the PB/Kroils/whatever a chance to penetrate.

Cheers, Jim

ZEUS+

That's one of the advantages when you mig a nut to a broken bolt. The heat aids in removal.

Bill Ball

Since the bolt heads are gone, you can turn them in as well as out. Maybe they will work loose more easily.

If you have to resort to drilling, the main problem, even with lefthand drill bits, is drilling on-center. The view angle creates lots of problems getting it on-center and perpendicular. Taking the radiator out improves your view.

Better yet is QuikCenter for assuring a centered, perpendicular drilling. CharleyB gave me a set.
http://www.boltmasterusa.com/
I can loan you my set if needed.

jcorenman

Oh darn, now I gotta buy a MIG (Sue is going to come looking for you, BTW).

Cheers, Jim

Bill Ball

Father's Day is coming up!

Mrmerlin

thanks for the ideas i will try heating the bolts radiator is out so i have lotts of room to work and the bolts are still protruding so there able to gripped with the vice grips, Thanks stan