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The EASY way for that big ass bolt!

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Old 05-21-2008, 05:13 PM
  #16  
Charley B
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Just off camera is Mike with that chain in his teeth.
Old 05-21-2008, 05:55 PM
  #17  
Tony
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Next thread. Starter turns but fails to engage!

hey you got it off, good for you!
Old 05-21-2008, 06:10 PM
  #18  
Sailmed
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
With the car on a lift I just attempt a chin up on the end of a long cheater bar, my feet never leave the ground.... trying to pull up from on top the engine could be pretty hard.
Yea right...
Please remember your speaking to the 90lb weakling over here
I just do pull ups


Timing belt job is done
Off for a cruise in the 911 to fetch up distilled water and coolant - I hope she doesn't get to jealous

Last edited by Sailmed; 05-21-2008 at 06:10 PM. Reason: because I can
Old 05-21-2008, 10:07 PM
  #19  
Mitch Johnson
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Never had much trouble with the crank bolt myself, 3/4" breaker bar and I am not a big guy...the rear axle nuts however are another story
Old 05-21-2008, 10:51 PM
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Shark Attack
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if there is a will, there is a way.... It takes a real man to post pics of something like that.
Old 05-21-2008, 11:57 PM
  #21  
dr bob
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Remember that the 3/4" tools are available for rent in most markets. Even with the flywheel lock, there's a bit of windup in the crank itself. You wouldn't think so but there is. Even with the BFBar, it rotates 10-20 degrees sometime sbefore you feel the bolt start to turn. If in doubt about it moving, you just need a bigger bar. With a big enough lever and a fulcrum the size of Jupiter, you can move the world. Otherwise, the 4 ft bar seems to make this task child's play.
Old 05-22-2008, 01:20 AM
  #22  
heinrich
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bad idea. seriously. there is nothing a starter electric motor can do for you that your arms cannot ... a long breaker bar with a long pipe will exert some 1000 lb-ft of torque and all you would need would be enough work to lift a battery off the ground.

What if that thing goes and flies off and nails you in the ankle ... or the rad ... or the block .... or the timing belt tensioner ..... yum
Old 05-22-2008, 04:11 AM
  #23  
UKKid35
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Lightbulb A More Elegant Solution






If you use an old torque wrench (one that will not be used for measuring torque) then the ratchet ensures there's virtually no chance of any damage.

If you look carefully you can see that the wrench handle is lodged between the frame rail and the axle stand - it can't, and doesn't, move.

This method has worked for me on all but one occasion, when the 1/2" drive failed: there was no drama, no movement, the drive simply snapped leaving the 1/2" cube in the socket.

The disadvantage of the 4 foot breaker bar is the risk of putting a large dent in the fender when the nut comes loose - I know this has happened to someone here before.

The starter motor method is the easiest, quickest and least dramatic method, and you don't even need a flywheel lock (you can use 5th gear & handbrake on reassembly).
Old 10-02-2010, 11:53 PM
  #24  
Chuck Schreiber
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I think I saw this technique at the following website:

http://www.darwinawards.com/
Old 10-03-2010, 03:03 AM
  #25  
IcemanG17
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we found that using a 3/4" air impact wrench works pretty well on stubborn bolts.....
Old 10-03-2010, 03:52 PM
  #26  
dr bob
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Engine in the car, there isn't roomfor the 3/4 air impact while the AC condenser is in place.
Old 10-03-2010, 05:12 PM
  #27  
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...all you need is a sturdy set of Gorilla Arms
Old 10-03-2010, 06:53 PM
  #28  
IcemanG17
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Engine in the car, there isn't roomfor the 3/4 air impact while the AC condenser is in place.
true...but the Estate doesn't have a condenser....once the radiator and fan are gone there is nothing up there!!!!!
Old 10-03-2010, 07:40 PM
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Think the OP was asking about a real car...
Old 10-03-2010, 09:36 PM
  #30  
Ispeed
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Easier with a flywheel lock tool. 3/4" breaker bar and some pipe.



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