Dean_Fuller

I just don't get it. How on God's green Earth is one to replace the Hall sensor? Looks like you have to remove the motor lift bracket to get to the bottom bolt holding the sensor on to the cam plate. I can't TOUCH that bolt from top or bottom. Any guidance would be great.

Pic shows condition of plug. The reason I have to do it now is I don't think its been hooked up for months...maybe years.

Rob Edwards

Dean-

Until someone smarter posts a simpler way:


The Hall sensor is a PITA. I recently replaced mine but I had everything on the passenger side of the motor removed, including the A/C compressor and the airpump, and the metal Y-coolant pipe. Even then it's easier to get at the 13 mm bolt that holds the engine lift bracket from below, looking up. I also disconnected the 14 pin connector near the jump post and threaded it back to in front of the dipstick so it was out of the way.


You MIGHT be able to get enough room to get to the lower hex bolt if you remove the air pump (loosen the belt tensioner, then the belt, then the upper bolt holding the air pump, and remove its output hose from the diverter valve back by cylinder #3, then pull it forward ). There's only the one bolt on the engine bracket, there's also a hole for a locating pin that protrudes from the block (see pic below).
Once you have clearance, you're not home free, as the 4 mm hex bolts on the Hall sensor are easily stripped. I stripped the lower bolt but had enough room to use a screw-type extractor on it.

Hall sensor replacement is best done as a WYAIT during a bigger job, like chain tensioner replacement & valve cover gasket re-seal, or pan-cooling hose R&R, etc.

Here's a shot with everything out of the way: (Note Roger's new fuel line up there, hint, hint..... )

Jim bailey - 928 International

Perhaps now it is clear why it is seldom changed...

Dean_Fuller

Thanks Rob...I got one of the 2 bolts off holding the sensor...The bottom one is stripped. Can you show me what your talking about when you say a "screw type extractor"? THANK your very much for your help!

Tom. M

Dean..if you can insert it back into the plug..give it a try...as long as the wires are not broken, it should work. Get it together and then wire or tape it together until you are in there for some major stuff...no point in replacing it if you can get it back together...

Good Luck.

Rob Edwards

Dean-

There are a couple of types of bolt extractors, the common ones include the external socket- type extractors, like so:




and the screw type ones, like so:



Both are left hand fluted, so you thread them over (or into) the stripped bolt, and they bite the bolt head (or recess) and turn it out, going lefty-loosey.

Dean_Fuller

Thanks Rob...I will look for a set.

Tom...Its so tight I don't even think I can rap the socket well with tape...I feel I have to replace it.

Bill Ball

I would make a new connector before I would try to replace the sensor. Yours looks like it could be taped together well enough to be secure. Replace it when you do the cam cover seals.

RED SHARK 1990

Hello i did mine and it took 10 hours,for one 4 hours for two broken cam tower bolts-the rest is the hall sensor my lower one was stripped also-here is how i got it out .Use an extension and a 6 point ot 12 point mm socket slighty smaller and and tapped into it tight and reversed it with a wrench on the other end of the extension.Also we used an end of the half inch wrench to tap side way since the damn hammer was too big for the space.Try that.

unit

hi
Anyone know where to get a new sensor at a good price?
i know its a bosch part so im guessing its used on other cars? any advice.

Sam

valiant

Wow looks like a tough job..

But I reckon Brain Surgery may be trickery buddy...
I'm pretty sure your not trying to replace the sensor while the car is still running..... ANYWAY.


What actually goes wrong with this hall sensor???

Looks like the plug connector has failed not the sensor itself, wouldn't that mean replacement of the sensor itself is fruitless??

Surely you can get new harness plugs??

PS.

Sweet looking rims UNIT..

marton

In both cases; practice on someonelse first

Marton

unit

anyone have any answer?

am i right to think the housing can be taped up and save the expense on a new sensor?

sam

Dean_Fuller

Not sure...I got a brand new sensor from Roger at 928'sRus for $100.00 USD.

Tom. M

One more note Dean, If you remove the remnants of the old broken up part from the one end, the one with the tabs will fit in there and fit nice an snug...then just wrap with tape (maybe even zip tie the two ends)..and you will be good to go..