Brain surgery or HALL sensor replacing? Which is harder?
05-22-2008, 12:45 PM
#16
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Sam-
Seems to me that you can just insert the pins back into the connector and tape it together so that they don't fall out, until you can get a new sensor. In Dean's case there's little to lose by doing this since it sounds like it was disconnected before. That said, I have no idea what the nature (or amplitude) of the signal coming from the Hall sensor is, so it may be that oxidation on the exposed pins, or vibration/movement of individual pins loose in the connector might interfere with the output signal from the sensor itself. On the other hand, it might work fine for another 15 years with the pins just shoved in there. I just don't know. My foreward knock sensor connection was just three bare pins when I got the car, and the connection held together just fine. (No idea if it was actually sending signal or not.....)
Seems to me that you can just insert the pins back into the connector and tape it together so that they don't fall out, until you can get a new sensor. In Dean's case there's little to lose by doing this since it sounds like it was disconnected before. That said, I have no idea what the nature (or amplitude) of the signal coming from the Hall sensor is, so it may be that oxidation on the exposed pins, or vibration/movement of individual pins loose in the connector might interfere with the output signal from the sensor itself. On the other hand, it might work fine for another 15 years with the pins just shoved in there. I just don't know. My foreward knock sensor connection was just three bare pins when I got the car, and the connection held together just fine. (No idea if it was actually sending signal or not.....)
05-22-2008, 01:51 PM
#17
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I've done the Hall sensor R&R a half-dozen or more times. My $0.928 cents:
If you have access to diagnostic tools (Hammer, Spanner, etc.) then you can partially verify if a 'tape' fix to the connector works or not; you'll get a Hall sensor fault. However, it has been my experience that once the sensor connector fails and the connector is further disturbed by work in the area (cam covers, t-belt, etc.) that the chances of the ECUs dealing correctly with the signal from the sensor is very small. The WSM asserts that a bad Hall sensor will result in timing retard. This is true if the ECUs determine that the sensor signal is faulty. However, I have experienced three times now, where a bad sensor and/or sensor connection results in a stumbling poorly running (or not at all) motor. The Hall sensor signal is very noisy and the connection is shielded. So any extra noise from bad shielding or a poor 'tape fix' may result in the ECUs not being able to figure out what's signal and what isn't. In short: replace the hall sensor.
Get as much stuff out of the way as possible.
Lift loop - Lie under car with head just inboard from the front wheel. With left arm holding a long-handle ratchet reach around the engine cross brace between the manifold and the body. Use right hand behind the airpump to guide the ratchet to lift loop bolt. Essentially you are hugging the engine cross brace and working 'around' it.
Disconnecting the airpump hose from the diverter valve and unrouting the front main engine harness can also increase access to the sensor cover bolts. Having the cam cover off also can help.
A long wobble-head allan wrench socket can be used from over and under the car to get the two bolts out. If a bolt is stripped you can grind the head off with a dremel and its snake attachment in about 5 minutes.
If you have access to diagnostic tools (Hammer, Spanner, etc.) then you can partially verify if a 'tape' fix to the connector works or not; you'll get a Hall sensor fault. However, it has been my experience that once the sensor connector fails and the connector is further disturbed by work in the area (cam covers, t-belt, etc.) that the chances of the ECUs dealing correctly with the signal from the sensor is very small. The WSM asserts that a bad Hall sensor will result in timing retard. This is true if the ECUs determine that the sensor signal is faulty. However, I have experienced three times now, where a bad sensor and/or sensor connection results in a stumbling poorly running (or not at all) motor. The Hall sensor signal is very noisy and the connection is shielded. So any extra noise from bad shielding or a poor 'tape fix' may result in the ECUs not being able to figure out what's signal and what isn't. In short: replace the hall sensor.
Get as much stuff out of the way as possible.
Lift loop - Lie under car with head just inboard from the front wheel. With left arm holding a long-handle ratchet reach around the engine cross brace between the manifold and the body. Use right hand behind the airpump to guide the ratchet to lift loop bolt. Essentially you are hugging the engine cross brace and working 'around' it.
Disconnecting the airpump hose from the diverter valve and unrouting the front main engine harness can also increase access to the sensor cover bolts. Having the cam cover off also can help.
A long wobble-head allan wrench socket can be used from over and under the car to get the two bolts out. If a bolt is stripped you can grind the head off with a dremel and its snake attachment in about 5 minutes.
05-22-2008, 03:01 PM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well its out! After taking everything I could off that valve cover including the spark plug wires, their brackets, air pump, several hoses I finally had a CHANCE. Waiting on a new cover for the sensor now...coming from Germany. The fuel lines were still a pain but I got around them. First pic is the "empty" area where the sensor bolts. Second pic is the bad sensor...third pic is the new sensor and finally the perfect plug...We shall see what difference this makes in the way the car runs soon. I will let you know.....WHAT a PITA!
Last edited by Dean_Fuller; 04-16-2010 at 04:25 AM.
05-23-2008, 05:26 PM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Tom....Im just waiting on a new cover from Germany now. Like you said...after cleaning the broken plug parts out the 2 plug right up. I still have the wire clip that holds the 2 together so I think I'm good to go! Man what a job!
05-25-2008, 02:33 AM
#21
Team Owner
now the good news if your Hall sensor connector look like that its a safe bet that your knock sensors and the crank position sesnsor are not far behind, I am glad you got the Hall sensor replaced
05-25-2008, 12:32 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Both knock sensors are underneath the intake manifold with the CPS close by.
When you get to the intake refresh project add these 3 sensors to the list.
05-25-2008, 12:57 PM
#24
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Dean- Here's 4000 words for you:
Front knock sensor connection:
Rear knock sensor connection:
Why you'll be R&R'ing the knock sensors as part of an intake R&R;
CPS connection (just below throttle cable pulley):
Front knock sensor connection:
Rear knock sensor connection:
Why you'll be R&R'ing the knock sensors as part of an intake R&R;
CPS connection (just below throttle cable pulley):
