SteveG

219 foot lbs

Imo000

BINGO!!! That’s what I did after loosing the crank bolt during the SC shake down runs. So I pulled the rad, put blue locktite on a replacement bolt and hammered it on with an impact gun. It hasn’t backed out yet but I probably didn’t have it on tight enough to start with. I have no problem with this cause I will know but can see being a issue if a car changes hands and the new owner has no idea that the bolt is glued on.

checkmate1996

I hope this post is tongue and cheek....

Is there a phobia against using a torque wrench???

marton

about
I broke my 1/2" 3' long breaker bar; to be sure use 3/4

Marton

Tass 928

My method is kind of strange. Working with a lift I use my 3/4 drive ratchet and put a block of wood under the end of the handle. I let the car down and it usually lets go. Sometimes I have to help a little by pushing down on the bumper.

I would guess you could achieve the same result with a floor jack lifting up on the wrench handle??

Mike B

Exactly what I used thanks to Roger's suggestion. My 1/2" 600 ft/lb impact had no effect. The 3/4" 3" bar...piece of cake.

the flyin' scotsman

Soak the bolt in penetrant and use a breaker bar with a 3/4" drive 27mm sockect then add a cheater pipe................pay close attention where your hands will go should it let loose to minmise the 'ouch' factor.

If the bolts on really really tight the rachet adds too much 'give' in the system and you risk breaking it.

Tony

Mines on with tq and blue loctite. Its gonna be a bitch to get off i know, but Ive had that bolt back out under the drag of the SC'er coming out of boost. Ive got a slightly longer and higher grade bolt as well.

Shark Attack

I use a 250ft# impact and a 10 gal compressor

JimBob951

Andrew, didn't yours back out too before? Mine is SC'd but I wonder if it was loctited? Any other method to get it off it it was?

Jimbob

dr bob

I think we used a 4' demo bar, a 3/4 drive adapter, and the deep 6pt impact socket to get Ryan's apart. It was in the stand, so we also used his 4' jack handle to counterhold the support part of the stand as we twisted the nut loose. Still took a few healthy tugs to get it to move.

Moral-- Big Bar. Don't wait until the engine is in the stand. Use a tough 6pt deep impact socket instead of the 12pt 'standard' socket if you want to avoid rounding the bolt or breaking the socket. The 1/2" breaker bars seem to have small pivot pins that break. When a larger pin is used, it weakens the square drive head enough so it splits under pressure. The 3/4 drive stuff is cheap at places like Harbor Freight and Northern. Precision isn't quite as important as brawn in this duty.

JimBob951

250# and 10 gal compressor?? no way! Really?

Imo000

No, no phobia here, I just don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. The extra loading of the SC and the additional pulley being slightly wobbling, I figured an impact gun an loctite is the way to go. Maybe it's over kill but seems to hold so far.

SteveG

And a torque wrench is sooooo expensive. JK..

Fabio421

Theres always a right tool for a job. I have that tool. I started this thread because I didn't want to take the chance of wringing off the bolt if it was reverse threaded. Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you, the right tool for the job. I had to go out and buy a socket because I didn't have any 3/4" drive that were small enough to fit the crank bolt. I only had to pull with one arm once I used this ratchet.