Dwayne

I promised a pic of the fuel gauge operation after a fill up (after the cleaning and needle adjustment) I just filled it up and snapped a pic....

John Speake

Hi Dwayne,
You apply flux before applying heat. Obviously the cleaner you get everything first the better, as it is not an agressive flux. If you can't obtain a similar item in US let me know.

6mil928

Dwayne excellent write up. I'm going to use it soon. Jason

underdog928

Dwayne, fantastic writeup! Great pictures and great detailed explanation of each step in the process.

This is exactly what I needed before ripping into the pod to fix the PRND23 lights, which have NEVER worked, and my spastic voltmeter.

BTW, I had a problem with my fuel gauge not registering correctly after the car sat for a few years, but the problem must have been with the fuel tank sensor as continued filling the tank seemed to fix the problem. Which was certainly easier than removing the instrument cluster.

Good job!

steelworker2001

Noobs like me will rely on this type of info for many years to come.

Thanks for an excellent write up with pics!

cold_beer839

My fuel gauge is flaky too, but there is no way in hell I would try to do this repair.

WHY: I would burn the car to the ground without a doubt!! I have luck like that.

Pagnobito

There are 4 bulbs soldered into boards and inside plastic tubes , one of which can be seen here for the low fuel indicator, there are also high coolant temp, low voltage and oil pressure. My low fuel had blown. It can be tested by applying voltage to the two metal parts you see on the board.

The plastic tube has to be removed, solder a new bulb in and glue the tube back on. The little board itself is just held there by a little sticky once the screws are take out from the other side.

Majestic Moose

I have my cluster all apart and am debating whether to replace these hardwired bulbs and if I do it with LEDs will that interfere with the alternator exciter circuit? Would a larger resistor to compensate for the decrease in load be necessary?

Mongo

Alan is our electronics guru on this board. He did an article on LEDs a while back I think. I hope he can chime in to answer this.

I am considering tearing my cluster out of the car since my temperature gauge needle is erratic and always looks like it's overheating regardless of what the pyrometer check on the radiator hoses say.

crushingday

Great stuff!

Andre The Giant

Hi Dwayne, great post as usual. This will come in handy when I do decide to tackle the instrument cluster at one point. All is working right now, but a good cleaning doesn't hurt and might prevent other issues. I gather it's close to the same in the 85 ?

odurandina

i'm upgrading to a new tach and gps speedo on my 968.

Dwayne's thread is great.


what's goin' in....

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Anders Flodin

This helped me alot, but I have one problem not addressed. My sliding contact between steering wheel and column, the little copper strip, connecting the horn pad so you can turn the steering wheel and still honk, is worn out, anyone else experienced this, fix or hunt for used part?
Thanks,

Anders

GT6ixer

How is it worn out? Copper likes to oxidize. I took steel wool to mine and also bent it out a little more to give it more pre-load on the mating ring. Applying the grease like Dwayne suggests will help eliminate any annoying scraping noises as you turn the wheel.

Anders Flodin

3:rd time I try to reply to this, get kicked out as not logged in when I post a pic using cut'n paste....so no pic this time and see if that works

GT6ixer, thanks for answering. The strip is worn away, hanging together by a 2-3mm strip which what is left, see pic above. I am not sure if the part above will fit, I have to investigate further, but it could be a solution. Trying to solder someting on to the copper strip and patch it up will probably be noisy just as you mention.
Thanks,'
Anders