I've tried several ways to remove the U joint at the steering rack but can't seem to figure out the exact procedure. I've removed thed this in the past (6years ago) but I can't remember how. This is the last step before pulling the driver side head but if it's not off, the manifold will not clear. Anyone remembers how to do it?

 

There's a through-bolt that clamps the lower part of the joint to the splined end of the pinion on the rack. That bolt needs to come out completely, as it indexes in a slot cut in the splines. Once the bolt is out, you may find it easier to wedge a small screwdriver into the clamp to open it a little. Then a few taps with a hammer and a soft drift will push the u-joint off the splines. I recommend that you mark the shaft with the location of the slot in the u-joint so you only need to put it together once on assembly. A spot of anti-sieze on the splines will help with future removals.

 

As Bob said - that is the only way it comes off.

Before taking it off, this is a good opportunity to confirm that the steering wheel is perfectly centered when the rack 'dimple' is centered: if not, it can be corrected on reassembly, and the tie rods adjusted accordingly. (Most of the cars I've checked were not correctly centered wrt the rack.)

 

Nice avatar, Dr.

 

Took me ages to work that out on a previous car. I tried changing it thousands of miles from home because the rubber bush had become very soft, but I just couldn't work out why it wouldn't come off. Sadly I had to complete my journey with very imprecise steering - not nice.

 

Thanks Bob but I have already tired that adn didn't quiet. Both bolts are out (at the bottom of the joint and at the top). I already go the joint to move up the steering shaft but when the the U joint gets to the end of the splined part of the steering shaft there is still about an inch to go before the joint can slide off the rack. Almost as if the splined part of the steering shaft is too short (the splines need to go a bit furhter).

 

That's a good point, I'll keep an eye on it during assembly.

 

The rack is held up into the crossmember by four bolts, easily accessed after the lower cover is removed. Lower the driver's side of the rack slightly and it will clear the end of the u-joint.

Changing the tie rod lengths to center the rack perfectly should probably be left to a time when you are ready to reset toe-in. The difference between a good setting and bad is less than 1/8 of a turn on one side. It would be impractical to expect to get it perfect by counting threads.

 

Ahh ok...... will drop one corner of the rack then. But what pi$$es me off is that I have removed this joint before and never touched the rack but at this point I'll do what you suggested and worry about the centering after I have the engine running again.

 

I have had the same difficulty with the joint, even with the bolt out and something wedged in the split. I used a large prybar between the rack and the joint, destroying the boot that is around the base of that shaft, but that was OK since the rack was being replaced.

This U-joint has twice as many splines as the steering wheel shaft, so it is critical to get it on just right, as Dr. Bob and Garth mentioned. In theory the slot for the bolt indexes it correctly, but on one rebuilt rack, I had to slightly file the slot to allow me to position it one tooth off from the index or the steering wheel would not align with the rack centered - it was off one-half tooth at the steering wheel. Sure, you can run with the rack slightly off-center, and I did for years, but it's best to do it right.

 

Soooona biiiiitch...FINALLY Its' out without touching the rack. As per Bob's suggestion I started pulling hte plate under the rack to get to it but couldn't get to the bolt head for the large bolts (17mm head). I would have had to modify a socket (shorten) for taht so as I last dich effor I put a very large flathead screwdriver between the U joint and the rack (the screwdriver handle resting on the cross brace) and pried on it.......woila... the joint popled off the rack. The rubber disk on the steering shaft had enough give to let the joint come off the end of the splies of the steering rack. I was just about had it and was ready to get the sawsall out and cut the steering shaft in half, then use the one out of the parts car and figure out the reassamble later. I'm glad I didn't..............kept telling myself "this came out before, it HAS to come out now too".

 

ohh yeah..... now that you mention it... there WAS a boot on there when I first removed it years ago, and as you, I destroyed it too.

 

un do the power steering hosesfrom the bottom of the rackremove 9 bolts holding the rack and let it drop out of the way this will release the shaft from the rack and also you can then remove the steering shaft mark the ends first

 

You were probalby tying your post when I posted my last two. Dropping the rack is probably the proper way of doing it but it's possible to do it without even touching it.

 

Yep its a bitch when its time to reinstall the rack connections,, BTDT, goodluck whatever method you use