short throw shifter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
Ok here is a DIY short shifter.
In this following picture you see 3 shift levers,
The top is from a 1980 931 with a snailshell tranny,
the next is from an 85/86 928,
the bottom is from an S4, or GT, cant recall, with the top cut off.
This next picture is the lever which will be modified
You cut the lever between the two holes, you can use a Plasma cutter, zip disk, hacksaw etc.
This picture shows the lever once cut sitting in the vise, the lower hole is sitting on the back of the vice and the part which is cut off is sitting on the teeth
What you do is take the piece which is cut off the top, and lay it in the face which you cut (it is up in the vice in past picture). You then tack it to this face with the 2 notchs sitting off the edge of the shift lever.
Once tacked, put the lower piece with the hole on the top and tack it into place.
Make sure that the pieces are straight and that the holes are in the same plane.
When tacking the pieces make sure that you put the bottom piece with the hole on the same way it came off or the two rods will be off a fair amount.
This is what it looks like when done.
As you can see I added two small notches back into it so that a stock shift lever can be used.
If you wanted to add an aftermarket ****, just cut off the narrower part of the back and weld on a piece of round stock to it.
This is a picture of my modified one next to the 931 lever. As you can see the hole spacing is alittle further apart but not by much, the 931 unit is easier to install, but it needs to be modified as well because the wide part goes up too much, you need to narrow it, and without a plasma cutter that can take alot of time.
I have sent this modified one to Roger, and Roger when you install it. Yes it will be VERY tight to install, that is normal. Do not use the springs, or the plastic bushing with 2 holes in it. Use new (or good used) shifter lever bushings in the lever with some grease or moly lube etc.
When you first install it the lever will require some extra force to move as it will be rubbing on the foam insulation below it. That is fine and it will get alot easy with alittle usage.
This will REALLY tighten up the shifting and make the vehicle much more fun to drive.
Let me know either on here, or via email what you think of it.
In this following picture you see 3 shift levers,
The top is from a 1980 931 with a snailshell tranny,
the next is from an 85/86 928,
the bottom is from an S4, or GT, cant recall, with the top cut off.
This next picture is the lever which will be modified
You cut the lever between the two holes, you can use a Plasma cutter, zip disk, hacksaw etc.
This picture shows the lever once cut sitting in the vise, the lower hole is sitting on the back of the vice and the part which is cut off is sitting on the teeth
What you do is take the piece which is cut off the top, and lay it in the face which you cut (it is up in the vice in past picture). You then tack it to this face with the 2 notchs sitting off the edge of the shift lever.
Once tacked, put the lower piece with the hole on the top and tack it into place.
Make sure that the pieces are straight and that the holes are in the same plane.
When tacking the pieces make sure that you put the bottom piece with the hole on the same way it came off or the two rods will be off a fair amount.
This is what it looks like when done.
As you can see I added two small notches back into it so that a stock shift lever can be used.
If you wanted to add an aftermarket ****, just cut off the narrower part of the back and weld on a piece of round stock to it.
This is a picture of my modified one next to the 931 lever. As you can see the hole spacing is alittle further apart but not by much, the 931 unit is easier to install, but it needs to be modified as well because the wide part goes up too much, you need to narrow it, and without a plasma cutter that can take alot of time.
I have sent this modified one to Roger, and Roger when you install it. Yes it will be VERY tight to install, that is normal. Do not use the springs, or the plastic bushing with 2 holes in it. Use new (or good used) shifter lever bushings in the lever with some grease or moly lube etc.
When you first install it the lever will require some extra force to move as it will be rubbing on the foam insulation below it. That is fine and it will get alot easy with alittle usage.
This will REALLY tighten up the shifting and make the vehicle much more fun to drive.
Let me know either on here, or via email what you think of it.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
I also forgot to mention, I normally put abit of a bevel on the surfaces so that I get more penatration on the welds. Mainly as my welder isnt very big so I cant just turn up the juice, though I have never had one break yet.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
Yes you can Ketchmi,
however this is for the DIYers,
costs me very little gas and wire for MIG, and takes a whole 5 min to complete.
Much less than $70 or more dollars for a short shifter, and the weight difference between the two is not enough to worry about unless you are a VERY serious racer.
however this is for the DIYers,
costs me very little gas and wire for MIG, and takes a whole 5 min to complete.
Much less than $70 or more dollars for a short shifter, and the weight difference between the two is not enough to worry about unless you are a VERY serious racer.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 625
Likes: 29
From: Summerville SC
I must say that looks like a lot of work !
I posted a much simpler way to modify a shifter to decrease the throw and shorten it at the same time.
I will try to explain without photos. First don't cut off the top that destroys the fit of the factory ****. Take the original shifter and cut off the lower eyelet right at the bottom of the upper eyelet so it looks like the original bottom. Drill a hole up from the eyelet left on the lever to what ever throw ratio you want. Use the removed eyelet after you cut off the welds to install in the hole drilled then weld it in place. I think this is much simpler and I have done several shifters this way.
I posted a much simpler way to modify a shifter to decrease the throw and shorten it at the same time.
I will try to explain without photos. First don't cut off the top that destroys the fit of the factory ****. Take the original shifter and cut off the lower eyelet right at the bottom of the upper eyelet so it looks like the original bottom. Drill a hole up from the eyelet left on the lever to what ever throw ratio you want. Use the removed eyelet after you cut off the welds to install in the hole drilled then weld it in place. I think this is much simpler and I have done several shifters this way.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
to each his own, a4sfed
I do it this way as it is short simple, and no work at all with the tools I have.
The main reason I do it this way is it gives me the MAX distance between the holes that will work.
I do it this way as it is short simple, and no work at all with the tools I have.
The main reason I do it this way is it gives me the MAX distance between the holes that will work.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,023
Likes: 72
From: Southern Utah
on my 85, I think I am the only one that is not impressed with this upgrade. I find that it takes "smooth" out of the picture, especially on a downshift. Yes the shift pattern is tight, almost to tight, Very very notchy. It also feels like I am pulling my shifter threw molassis when I shift. I think this is becasue of the addes pressure on the linkages to fit the new mounting holes. I also see with all the additional pressure the bushings, them wearing very very fast.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
Likes: 39
From: Abbotsford B.C.
Shark attack,
No doubt about it, you are removing some leverage so it will always take a tiny bit more effort.
I have found even with good bushings in the rear of the car that the stock shifter has no feel, and the throw really is too long.
Hell I would love to be able to shorten up the side to side movement as well and am trying to some up with ways to do that, and make the throw even shorter.
No doubt about it, you are removing some leverage so it will always take a tiny bit more effort.
I have found even with good bushings in the rear of the car that the stock shifter has no feel, and the throw really is too long.
Hell I would love to be able to shorten up the side to side movement as well and am trying to some up with ways to do that, and make the throw even shorter.
