The Points & Condensers Preservation Society
04-05-2008, 12:49 PM
#1
Drifting
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The Points & Condensers Preservation Society
Keep in mind that the first Saturday of every month is the meeting of The Points & Condensers Preservation Society, 888 Railroad St. Ypsilanti, MI.
Today the Rolls Royce society showed up with 17 cars. 928's or any other car is always welcome.
May 31 will be a dust of the old buggy car tour to MIS with a couple of laps. Just a nice group of car guys. Mac
Today the Rolls Royce society showed up with 17 cars. 928's or any other car is always welcome.
May 31 will be a dust of the old buggy car tour to MIS with a couple of laps. Just a nice group of car guys. Mac
04-05-2008, 01:08 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Points and condensors............o'man does those words involke nightmares.
The was a company in the UK (perhaps still around) Boyer that made kits to replace the P&C systems with electronic ignitions.
The was a company in the UK (perhaps still around) Boyer that made kits to replace the P&C systems with electronic ignitions.
04-05-2008, 01:48 PM
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Hard to believe that folks still dwell on these things. Revolting, make me recoil just thinking about them.
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As much as people say they would like to have things simple, like in the 'good old days', their memories are selective. Points/plugs/condenser every 6,000 miles. Find somebody who knows the carburetor well enough to "tune" it every 12,000 miles or so. Caps and rotors, distributor shaft wear, vacuum and mechanical timing advance and retard, little vacuum delay valves, throttle stop solenoids, vacuum pull-off valves. Ahhh! The Good Old Days!
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As much as people say they would like to have things simple, like in the 'good old days', their memories are selective. Points/plugs/condenser every 6,000 miles. Find somebody who knows the carburetor well enough to "tune" it every 12,000 miles or so. Caps and rotors, distributor shaft wear, vacuum and mechanical timing advance and retard, little vacuum delay valves, throttle stop solenoids, vacuum pull-off valves. Ahhh! The Good Old Days!
04-05-2008, 04:18 PM
#6
Hard to believe that folks still dwell on these things. Revolting, make me recoil just thinking about them.
---
As much as people say they would like to have things simple, like in the 'good old days', their memories are selective. Points/plugs/condenser every 6,000 miles. Find somebody who knows the carburetor well enough to "tune" it every 12,000 miles or so. Caps and rotors, distributor shaft wear, vacuum and mechanical timing advance and retard, little vacuum delay valves, throttle stop solenoids, vacuum pull-off valves. Ahhh! The Good Old Days!
---
As much as people say they would like to have things simple, like in the 'good old days', their memories are selective. Points/plugs/condenser every 6,000 miles. Find somebody who knows the carburetor well enough to "tune" it every 12,000 miles or so. Caps and rotors, distributor shaft wear, vacuum and mechanical timing advance and retard, little vacuum delay valves, throttle stop solenoids, vacuum pull-off valves. Ahhh! The Good Old Days!
04-05-2008, 05:21 PM
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
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In the early 1970's, I was doing consulting on the side to an oil company in Cali, working with the Big 2 auto mfrs to get the cars, the emissions and the gas to all play together well. Driveability was at the tail of the list of demands, that's for sure. Things like vacuum-operated EGR systems that were insensitive to engine RPM's and not real sensitive to load were the order of the day. Can't have a misfire even with the artificially-leaned mixtures, so high-output electronic ignition became the new standard. Still had a vacuum can on the side though.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on the point of view...) I have no knowledge or experience with hand crank starters. The closest I came to that was my first "winter car", a '58 beetle I found for $50. It had a pull-strap gismo in the boot that could supposedly be used to start the car if the starter pooped out. Didn't do much for dead battery problems since there was no ignition then. It was likely a JC Whitney gadget that the original owner threw in there. I tried it once, and it kinda worked, but it was really a lot easier to just push the car a bit, jam it into first, and bump-bump-bump it to life again. Macreel, you were probably raised on flivers and such.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on the point of view...) I have no knowledge or experience with hand crank starters. The closest I came to that was my first "winter car", a '58 beetle I found for $50. It had a pull-strap gismo in the boot that could supposedly be used to start the car if the starter pooped out. Didn't do much for dead battery problems since there was no ignition then. It was likely a JC Whitney gadget that the original owner threw in there. I tried it once, and it kinda worked, but it was really a lot easier to just push the car a bit, jam it into first, and bump-bump-bump it to life again. Macreel, you were probably raised on flivers and such.
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04-05-2008, 08:57 PM
#8
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04-20-2008, 09:44 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Wow, those are beautiful.
The fun with those old things are the tinkering and tuning. Although I bet these get an "A-1 certified tinker".
I always did my best with my small block chevy and mallory dual point and holley. Although truth be told, I dumped the holley for a quadrajet cause I couldnt get the holley to run right (oh same for the dual point - crap on the street, no vacuum advance)
The fun with those old things are the tinkering and tuning. Although I bet these get an "A-1 certified tinker".
I always did my best with my small block chevy and mallory dual point and holley. Although truth be told, I dumped the holley for a quadrajet cause I couldnt get the holley to run right (oh same for the dual point - crap on the street, no vacuum advance)
04-20-2008, 10:33 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
My Model A Ford of course has the points and condensor. I actually keep a spare set under the rear seat. Of course the car has no oil filter or air filter. The recommended service interval was an oil change every 500 miles.
We've come a long way.
I have also hand cranked it for "fun" It's important to not lock your thumb over the handle and to crank with a brisk up pull so that if you've set the spark lever or fuel lever wrong the kick back will not break your arm.
Ken
We've come a long way.
I have also hand cranked it for "fun" It's important to not lock your thumb over the handle and to crank with a brisk up pull so that if you've set the spark lever or fuel lever wrong the kick back will not break your arm.
Ken
