sjfarbs

I think I am on my way to fixing the Plastic End Cap on the raditor, thanks to Roger at 928 r us................

Just need a little step by step, I read the Nichols thread and think I understand............but a picture is worth 1000 words (or is that 6500 rpm?). Are there any picture threads on how to remove the Radiator?

If not; couple of simple questions:

1. What size wrenches do I need for the cooler lines?
2. To move the rubber clamp holding the RAD in, do you remove that hex or the rubber foot (is there a bolt under there?) If it is the hex screw, is there a bolt on the other side?
3. Two screws for the fan housing..........hoses, then rubber clamps, slide RAD slightly forward and remove? Sound about right?

Here are some pics............thanks for the help.

Shawn

Mrmerlin

t The rad hold downs are held in with the allen bolts remove these screws then the rubber /metal foot comes out. 2 screws on the top of the fan shroud are removed and then the wire harness for the fans ir removed and put out of the way, the shroud lifts straight up,. From your pictures I can`t tell the wrench sizes you need , Best to go to sears and buy a whole set of big metric wrenches then you will have it all possible sizes you will need are 19,22,24,27,28,30,32. Make sure to use 2 wrenches, one to loosen the fitting and one to counterhold the recepticle so you dont damage the internal cooler

Bill Ball

The lines into the sidetanks should be 32mm with a 27mm counterhold. Open end wrenches that size can be hard to find locally. The 27 needs to be somewhat thin. Sears has them (both 27 and 32), but I don't know if the 27 is thin enough - may be fine for all I know. [Confirmed OK by Ed in post #15]

What I use are called check nut or pump wrenches. They are single open end with a tapered shaft. I got a set that has 27,30,32,34,36 for about $40. Wish I could find the source at the moment.

If you can find a thin 27 for the counterhold, you can use a large adjustable on the 32mm nut.

Also, bicycle shops sell large, thin open end wrenches for headsets that might be sturdy enough.

Adam Geist

I found that using a 3/8" impact gun on the allen head bolts worked better than a socket and ratchet combo.

I first used the ratchet/socket combo but the mounting tab the allen bolt is screwed into flexed alot under torque. The 3/8" impact gun on the lowest setting removed the bolt with ease.

On both my '86.5's, the bolt threads were slightly rusted. I cleaned the threads and used anti-seize when I re-installed them.

sjfarbs

Thanks guys!!

Is there a bolt under the allen head screw? Or can you just back the allen out without grabbing anything underneath it?

Bill Ball

Just back the Allen out.

Mike B

You may have an electrical connection on the front lower driver's side of the radiator that will have be disconnected as well. There is one on my 1988.

sjfarbs

Many thanks again!

Is the allen a 3/8 then?

Adam Geist

The bolt is a 6mm allen head (3/8" drive).

Mike B

The allen key will be 6mm. All fasteners are metric.

F451

Just pulled mine on my '88 to get the end tank replaced. Lots of debri between the rad and the a/c condensor. I took the obligatory pics but then was too lazy to post them. Ha ha...

Can't wait to get my rad back in there with all new coolant hoses in the engine bay including a new heater valve.

Mrmerlin

Yes pay attention to the front driver side of the rad there is a elex connector that must be removed before you lift. Thats a good call ,Mike B

928drvr86.5

Be careful when removing the transmission and engine oil cooler lines. If the lines are original they will be stiff / brittle and may leak at fitting to hose crimp if disturbed too much. Kid gloves.

sjfarbs

Got it, soft hands...........think light

Would liquid wrench penetrant be a good idea?

F451

Absolutely. I used PB Blaster - my penetrant of choice, its a bit thicker then Liq Wrench. I let it soak over night.

27 and 32 mm wrenches from Sears worked just fine on the S4. Loosened right up without too much effort.