About to install new sprockets and wondering should I use some anti-seize on the bolt? WSM doesn't mention it and it didn't have any on it, removal wasn't too hard...
So what do you think?

 

No

 

+1

There are a number of places in the WSM where Porsche does not specifically call for anti-seize but where everyone seems to think it's still a good idea. This is not one of them.

 

IIRC people recommend using it on the crank bolt. But not here, how so? Or am I wrong on the crank?

Next question, since the consequences of using it where it shouldn't be are worse than the opposite, could we get aggreement on a list of where not to put it?

 

I would not put it on the crank bolt becasue the rotation of the engine wants to loosen the crank bolt. I do however, put a very light coat on the nose of the crank where the harmonic dampner goes. It helps to ensure easy removal in the future.

 

When in doubt I put anit-size on one side of the bolt and loc-tite red on the other.

I figure that way I cover all the bases

 

Well, I'm going to re-torque it, b/c I can't remember if I used on the threads of the crank bolt. I think I did. If it moves I suppose removing the bolt and cleaning it is the next step. I know I put it on the innards of the balancer.

 

So do the bolts come out half-fast?

 

It would seem anti -seize is good for steel to aluminium. I.E. intake manifold or other block attachments.

 

+1 , and it was the rotation of the engine with a loosened crank bolt...

"Believe me, you don't want your crank bolt coming off that's why my shark is now in a 1000 pieces in the garage and other misc. parts of the house!"

 

I use antiseize on both the crank and cam bolts. Do not over torque the cam bolts. I don't know about 32V, but 16V cams are brittle.

 

Myself I use anti sieze on everything
I do pay attention to the recommended Torque values.

Maybe somebody who does not believe in anti sieze on correctly torqued bolts could supply their technical reasons?

Marton

 

From Loctite
Torque Guide

Proper clamp load is an essential part of any bolted assembly for trouble-free operations. Torquing either nut or bolt creates the clamp load. Anti-Seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts. The relationship between torque and clamp load is expressed in the following equation: T = KFD

Where: T = Torque (in-lb, ft-lb, N-m)
F = Clamp Load (lb, N)
D = Nominal diameter of bolt (in, ft, m)
K = Torque coefficient or nut factor, determined experimentally

Marton

 

I'm one that does not put anti-seize on if the WSM does not say to unless there is some other good reason, like the bolts are known to corrode and snap (e.g., water pump bolts, exhaust bolts). Other than the crank bolts being found way over-torqued, I've not had a problem getting them off and never found them to be corroded.

 

I think the bottom line is that it's a waste of time to put anti-seize on any bolt that *you know* is not going to corrode. I don't think I've ever seen a corroded cam bolt...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C