rattling sound under valve cover
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
rattling sound under valve cover
My car started experencing some rattling sound under the passenger side valve cover (seems to be coming the most from the front). It seems to get worse as the revs increased. First time I heard it I shut the car down and haven't started it since. Oil is full and clean with Mobil 0-40w and the car ran great for the past month or so since I had it out. Could this be a chain tensioner on its way out? Honestly it sounds like somthing is loose in there and bouncing around. How hard are the tensioners to change? I just did a t-belt change at 93k last summer and she just turned 100k now. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
This is something loose and bouncing around. In the 1987 the cam end plugs are made of plastic and deform and come loose. There is a metal pin that replaces the cam end plugs. The plastic end caps allow oil to drain out and causes the lifters to starve for oil.
Before I changed mine out it sounded like diesel with all of the clatter. There are 5 caps that need to be replaced with the pins. 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. While I was in there I replaced all of the gaskets and anything rubber.
It is tight working in there and it took me forever to get it done. But, then again I am the worlds slowest 928 shadetree mechanic. But, after it was done, my cam covers didn't seep oil anymore, my engine sounded much happier and my hot oil pressure improved.
Before I changed mine out it sounded like diesel with all of the clatter. There are 5 caps that need to be replaced with the pins. 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. While I was in there I replaced all of the gaskets and anything rubber.
It is tight working in there and it took me forever to get it done. But, then again I am the worlds slowest 928 shadetree mechanic. But, after it was done, my cam covers didn't seep oil anymore, my engine sounded much happier and my hot oil pressure improved.
#4
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 61 Likes
on
35 Posts
It's not too hard to get the covers off. You'll want to pick up a sacrifical set of allen wrenches so you can cut a nub off a 5mm wrench as some of them are a bit tight. It shouldn't take more than an hour to get the cover off from start to finish.
Now will also be the best time to get the covers powder coated while you have them off. Let me know if you run into any issues along the way as I've BTDT.
Now will also be the best time to get the covers powder coated while you have them off. Let me know if you run into any issues along the way as I've BTDT.
#7
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 61 Likes
on
35 Posts
They're called cam journal pins. 928.105.262.00 928 Specialists has them for $1.18 a piece. You will need 5 of them. 3 for one head and 2 for the other (I forget which one gets the extra). The end seals you list would be tough to replace without pulling the engine, so unless they're leaking, I'd leave them alone.
You'll also want to replace a few other items while you're at it.
These PET images are for a 1991, so verify for your MY, but you'll want to order the following numbers: 23, 24, 29, 31, and possible the tensioner pads (depending on condition).
You'll also want to replace a few other items while you're at it.
These PET images are for a 1991, so verify for your MY, but you'll want to order the following numbers: 23, 24, 29, 31, and possible the tensioner pads (depending on condition).
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Here is a further description of what you may find once under the cam cover as well as a write up for getting the cam covers off.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/nasty.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/valve.htm
If you contact any of the big 928 parts suppliers they should be able to help you out on what you need.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/nasty.htm
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/valve.htm
If you contact any of the big 928 parts suppliers they should be able to help you out on what you need.
#9
Race Car
This is something loose and bouncing around. In the 1987 the cam end plugs are made of plastic and deform and come loose. There is a metal pin that replaces the cam end plugs. The plastic end caps allow oil to drain out and causes the lifters to starve for oil.
Before I changed mine out it sounded like diesel with all of the clatter. There are 5 caps that need to be replaced with the pins. 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. While I was in there I replaced all of the gaskets and anything rubber.
It is tight working in there and it took me forever to get it done. But, then again I am the worlds slowest 928 shadetree mechanic. But, after it was done, my cam covers didn't seep oil anymore, my engine sounded much happier and my hot oil pressure improved.
Before I changed mine out it sounded like diesel with all of the clatter. There are 5 caps that need to be replaced with the pins. 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. While I was in there I replaced all of the gaskets and anything rubber.
It is tight working in there and it took me forever to get it done. But, then again I am the worlds slowest 928 shadetree mechanic. But, after it was done, my cam covers didn't seep oil anymore, my engine sounded much happier and my hot oil pressure improved.
++++1 on this, I can almost guarantee that is the problem, I just fixed mine, on my 87
#11
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Is the best way to remove the passenger side valve cover include removing the metal fuel line that runs down the width of it? I see no other way other than to remove that metal fuel line? Any input would be great. thanks
Last edited by Dan87951; 03-25-2008 at 10:38 PM.
#12
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 61 Likes
on
35 Posts
You can try and separate the fuel line just above the cover, but if can be very difficult. You may consider just cutting it and replacing the rubber line portion with some new EFI hose and 2 clamps. That's what I did. Once it's separated, you should be able to work around it.
#13
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I finally got the valve cover off, not a bad job at all and I think I found the problem. On the back in there are these two black circular plugs (in red) for where the longer cams would go but they are warped. The bottom circular plug is warped pretty bad where the top one seems ok. Looks like I have to take the top portion of the bracket off (all the bolts in purple) in order to have access to the black circular plugs (in red). Is this the correct way to do it? Lift the bracket it out and the black plugs are accessible?
Thanks
Thanks
#14
Rocket Pilot
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: gettysburg pa.
Posts: 3,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dan, Watch that junk on the rails. It could fall in the oil return passages, in fact make sure nothing falls in there at all. Check the operation of those tensioners as well by spinning the engine and watching them. I had to replace one of mine that failed.