rattling sound under valve cover
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info I will make sure nothing falls down there.
Can anyone confirm in my earlier post if thats the correct way to remove them?
Thanks
Can anyone confirm in my earlier post if thats the correct way to remove them?
Thanks
#17
Rennlist Member
Yes, that is it. These are the plugs referenced in the earlier posts. Just remove the bridge and the plugs come right out. Just replace these plastic plugs with the pins and reassemble with new gaskets and seals. Also, consider replacing the tensioner pads while you are in there. I didn't get this advice till it was all buttoned up. I am not going back in now though.
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
So I got the parts. Just to confirm I replace the plastic plugs with just the pins? Correct? Below is a picture of the parts I received.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Correct, take old plastic ones out and put just those five pins in. This should be done to all '87-91 (GTS have them from factory) MY engines.
In Andrew's PET picture there is part number 32a. What it is exactly and where in the cover bolt its located, between bolt head and steel washer (#32)?
In Andrew's PET picture there is part number 32a. What it is exactly and where in the cover bolt its located, between bolt head and steel washer (#32)?
#20
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Go ahead and change the tensioner pads too as a preventative step. It's easy, only trick is how to manaeuver the little crush rings into position. I put a rag down around and behind the lower union bolt so if one of the rings came loose I could work it out. Then used a dental pick to carefully hook and lift out the lower ring (upper one came out with the J-pipe and union bolt). The pads are quite inexpensive and just slide into place after you (carefully) lift the piston just far enough to release them . Be careful with the tensioner not to let the piston extend so far that it comes out and the innards fall out. I used a piece of wire to lock the piston in place and then held it carefully when re-fitting back within the chain.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
At first glance it doesn't appear they will fit because they are long theren the old plastic plugs. Thanks for the info guy keep it coming!
#24
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Its not even remotely close to fitting. The small end will not fit in the oil galley hole at all. I will try and get a picture and upload. Maybe I'm missing something? Do they take force to go inthere? I tried applying a little force but no dice its pretty obvious the diamoter of the pins are to big!
#25
Team Owner
the reduced section of the pin is that part that plugs into the oil feed in the head the thicker portion will cross the empty part of the journal and be held by the other end of the cam securing cap, the parts you have look like the correct parts. and you discard the rubber/metal plugs
#26
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Rubber metal/plugs? Are they actually in the oil galley hole?
After thinking about this for a while the only way I can see is to have someone hold the pins for me while they are in the hole until I can get it torqued down because the pins will NOT stay up by themselves as they will not fit all the way in the hole. Is the right?
After thinking about this for a while the only way I can see is to have someone hold the pins for me while they are in the hole until I can get it torqued down because the pins will NOT stay up by themselves as they will not fit all the way in the hole. Is the right?
#29
Rennlist Member
are the pads supposed to be grooved that much?
also, my tensioner plunger had broke free of the cylinder slightly. i had to put it back in position so it would move freely. Its just crimped in to position. mine was jammed (no movement)
however, it was not making any noise. I was just loosing sproket teeth (dont know if that was the reason, as i was loosing teeth on both sides of the engine, one with a perfectly good tensioner)
mk
also, my tensioner plunger had broke free of the cylinder slightly. i had to put it back in position so it would move freely. Its just crimped in to position. mine was jammed (no movement)
however, it was not making any noise. I was just loosing sproket teeth (dont know if that was the reason, as i was loosing teeth on both sides of the engine, one with a perfectly good tensioner)
mk
#30
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
are the pads supposed to be grooved that much?
also, my tensioner plunger had broke free of the cylinder slightly. i had to put it back in position so it would move freely. Its just crimped in to position. mine was jammed (no movement)
however, it was not making any noise. I was just loosing sproket teeth (dont know if that was the reason, as i was loosing teeth on both sides of the engine, one with a perfectly good tensioner)
mk
also, my tensioner plunger had broke free of the cylinder slightly. i had to put it back in position so it would move freely. Its just crimped in to position. mine was jammed (no movement)
however, it was not making any noise. I was just loosing sproket teeth (dont know if that was the reason, as i was loosing teeth on both sides of the engine, one with a perfectly good tensioner)
mk
Mark I think thats just an illusion from the picture I took. The pad is not grooved hardly at all. The tensioner pads were replaced by the PO back in 2006. I can get close up photos of the pad if you would like to see how they have weared.