Torque Converter Out, Should I replace seal?
07-12-2021, 04:20 PM
#16
can someone please provide a picture of the radial seal and bronze bushing? Maybe in the manual preferably with assembly/disassembly instructions, if not, then from PET?
07-12-2021, 06:25 PM
#17
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If you are removing the oil pump/reverse piston assembly to replace the O-ring around the oil pump body, it is quite simple to knock out the seal, when the pump is apart. However, you must be careful to not hit the bushing when removing the seal
It's simple to install the new seal, when the oil pump is apart.....you can easily tap it in, with a simple hammer. Make sure the seal is aligned perfectly with the face of the oil pump. Be sure to lubricate that bushing liberally. They have a tendency to "weld" themselves to the torque converter, if there isn't enough lubricant.
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greg brown
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
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Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
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greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
Last edited by GregBBRD; 07-12-2021 at 06:38 PM.
07-13-2021, 10:07 AM
#18
In the very 1st post, above, the radial seal is that red colored ring around the center metal parts. You can clearly see the gold colored bushing, below that seal. While the bushing do wear, slightly, unless there are visible scratches or damage, I'd suggest you leave it alone.
If you are removing the oil pump/reverse piston assembly to replace the O-ring around the oil pump body, it is quite simple to knock out the seal, when the pump is apart. However, you must be careful to not hit the bushing when removing the seal
It's simple to install the new seal, when the oil pump is apart.....you can easily tap it in, with a simple hammer. Make sure the seal is aligned perfectly with the face of the oil pump. Be sure to lubricate that bushing liberally. They have a tendency to "weld" themselves to the torque converter, if there isn't enough lubricant.
If you are removing the oil pump/reverse piston assembly to replace the O-ring around the oil pump body, it is quite simple to knock out the seal, when the pump is apart. However, you must be careful to not hit the bushing when removing the seal
It's simple to install the new seal, when the oil pump is apart.....you can easily tap it in, with a simple hammer. Make sure the seal is aligned perfectly with the face of the oil pump. Be sure to lubricate that bushing liberally. They have a tendency to "weld" themselves to the torque converter, if there isn't enough lubricant.
What about the inner and outer piston gaskets? Are they normally replaced as well?
Thanks
07-13-2021, 01:08 PM
#19
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My logic is that the seals get harder, with age, and I don't want one to break or crack when reassembled. Be careful here. Use genuine Mercedes seals on this piston, exclusively (Especially on the inner seal.)
Last edited by GregBBRD; 07-13-2021 at 01:18 PM.
07-14-2021, 08:29 AM
#20
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In my opinion (and practice) the only special handling when reassembling a transmission (or engine for that matter) is never force anything together with a tool or try to use a fastener to "draw" two parts together unless the manual specifically calls for pressing/driving into place. These are precision made parts and should fit together with hand pressure or at most, a nudge/tap from your bare hands.
07-15-2021, 01:51 PM
#21
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I threaded a couple of the short bolts that attach the drive plate to the torque converter into holes on the converter and then wrapped a piece of nylon rope around the bolts to make an improvised three-sided handle to lower the converter into place.
In my opinion (and practice) the only special handling when reassembling a transmission (or engine for that matter) is never force anything together with a tool or try to use a fastener to "draw" two parts together unless the manual specifically calls for pressing/driving into place. These are precision made parts and should fit together with hand pressure or at most, a nudge/tap from your bare hands.
In my opinion (and practice) the only special handling when reassembling a transmission (or engine for that matter) is never force anything together with a tool or try to use a fastener to "draw" two parts together unless the manual specifically calls for pressing/driving into place. These are precision made parts and should fit together with hand pressure or at most, a nudge/tap from your bare hands.
07-15-2021, 04:57 PM
#22
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