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Old 03-25-2008, 12:22 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
You didn't ask! What are your thoughts?
You putz!!

So you need:
1. Intercooler
2. Heat exchanger
3. Plumbing
4. Electric water pump
5. New LH & EZK chip (this is the key.......)
6. ?? not sure but it seams like I'm forgetting something
Old 03-25-2008, 12:30 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
Hey Tim! Yeah it's been awhile since we have talked. The only modifications I have done is 30lb. injectors and a smaller pulley (3.25") ...... snip
Kevin
Well, that changes quite a bit of the original equation.

I assume you are running stock fuel pressure and the standard Vortech FMU. What size disc do you have in the FMU? The one I sent with the Stage One kit is going to be WAY to agressive for the 30lb injectors. Not only will it make it very rich it will try to snub out the fuel pump at high boost. You might want to put a catch can on your tailpipe and reclaim some of the fuel pouring out of it

I could send you a chip from the ST with 30lb selected for the injector size. Let me know but there is no gaurantee because I have not tested this senario.

If you are not running an LM1 right now I suggest you invest in one asap and make sure what you are doing is not going to kill the motor. I could send you a chip with some ignition retard at WOT because with that size pulley you are most likely outside of where the stock knock sensor retard can save you.
Old 03-25-2008, 12:48 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Tim Murphy
Well, that changes quite a bit of the original equation.

I assume you are running stock fuel pressure and the standard Vortech FMU. What size disc do you have in the FMU? The one I sent with the Stage One kit is going to be WAY to agressive for the 30lb injectors. Not only will it make it very rich it will try to snub out the fuel pump at high boost. You might want to put a catch can on your tailpipe and reclaim some of the fuel pouring out of it

I could send you a chip from the ST with 30lb selected for the injector size. Let me know but there is no gaurantee because I have not tested this senario.

If you are not running an LM1 right now I suggest you invest in one asap and make sure what you are doing is not going to kill the motor. I could send you a chip with some ignition retard at WOT because with that size pulley you are most likely outside of where the stock knock sensor retard can save you.
Tim, please send me the lh chip described above as well as the ezk chip for the retard at wot. I will paypal or send you payment. But, what do I do about this FMU? Can I just be rid of it with the new maps?
Kevin
Old 03-25-2008, 03:59 PM
  #49  
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Just for the record my car ran fine for a long time with none none of these issues after my repairs before the S/C install. My thought is that the Maf may have been on the way out and boosting it just hastened its demise. All the gauges and Lm-1 equipment I hooked up may be an issue, I will back check my install this week while waiting for my Maf.
The way it reacts now it got progressively worse with the cut out symptom then two days ago it spazzed out completely. Once the Maf was disconnected the car ran without a huge trail of smoke. It's a lot easier to find a constant problem then a random one. I'm sure its a connection or Maf issue except for the 1/2 second drop out which other members are bringing to my attention on the S/C cars.
Old 03-25-2008, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
Just for the record my car ran fine for a long time with none none of these issues after my repairs before the S/C install. My thought is that the Maf may have been on the way out and boosting it just hastened its demise.
That would be my guess.


Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
I'm sure its a connection or Maf issue except for the 1/2 second drop out which other members are bringing to my attention on the S/C cars.
Are you talking about Murf SC'd cars (setup as instructed)? I am not aware of anyone having issues other than what you are working on.

I had one customer with slight surging while cruising but that was remedied with a new MAF. Had another that would not allow the car to rev above 5500 rpm and that was also remedied with a new MAF (that one was a total guess because we ran out of ideas). Some of the Stage 3 cars have a slight stumble just off idle but I think I have that tackled with some ST tuning.

If they are Murf cars, please PM me the names you are aware of so I can offer them some assistance.

Thanks,
Tim
Old 03-25-2008, 07:17 PM
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I sent my Maf off this morning and was just checking my connections and look what I found. Not sure if this would make any difference but it looks like it bowed in, although it stayed in place.
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:43 PM
  #52  
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If that came out of the maf that way, I would seriously be looking for an intake restriction on the inlet side. Could be your whole problem
Old 03-25-2008, 07:52 PM
  #53  
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It stayed in the intake tube just like that, the clamp must have come loose under boost and started to bow. I'm glad it did not get sucked up but I am not sure if it would pass through the pipes due to the size. It could have gone in there and haunted me with a rattle or some type of restriction and just added to this post.
Old 03-25-2008, 08:30 PM
  #54  
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I still think its a restriction. When the intake filter hose gets kinked it can create the pressure of a dozen Kirby vacuum cleaners. Prolly what bowed up that maf screen. Just a guess.
Old 03-25-2008, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
I still think its a restriction. When the intake filter hose gets kinked it can create the pressure of a dozen Kirby vacuum cleaners. Prolly what bowed up that maf screen. Just a guess.
Kevin, your statement above is physically impossible for a number of reasons. The only thing that could bow the screen is pressure drop across it. If something was sucked into the intake and was trapped on the screen it would cause a lot of pressure drop and could push out the screen. If the top screen was still in place and the bottom one blew out then I would suspect that the screen was not installed properly.

Mark, I assume the screen is from the downstream side of the MAF? If so, it would not affect anything as long as it was not interfering with the throttle plate. If it was from the upstream side I figure you would have found it when you removed the MAF. I'm surprised you didn't see it missing when you took the MAF out and sent it off for rebuild.
Old 03-25-2008, 09:30 PM
  #56  
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What is the sample rate for the analog to digital converter on these LM-1 systems and can it be set higher? The reason i ask is because the resolution/screen compression for the X axis (time) of the Data files shown is such that you cannot determine what is the cause and what is a syptom of what is going on here. The highest usable screen resolution i see in these files is .5 seconds per division, not nearly small enough to determine what is going on.
Old 03-25-2008, 09:45 PM
  #57  
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Nevermind, the file named, "surge 5" shows .1 sec/div and the waveform shows only one point of data at that setting. Basically at ~10 samples per second, the LM-1 does not sample fast enough to get meaningful data for what you are trying to use it for.
Old 03-25-2008, 09:54 PM
  #58  
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When I took the Maf off I was trying to find a box, catch Ups and then my bug would not shift into gear due to a defective brake switch. I messed with the bug for an 1/2 hour got it to shift, ran to catch Ups with tape in my hand before they picked up. So as you can see I did not even look at it, the top screen was on, that I would have noticed. So live one day in my shoes and you would understand why I missed that. The only thing I could see with it this way would be a little power loss. I'm still betting on the Maf, just checked the Maf connector its fine no exposed wires. I do remember the lower screen did not have a lot of tension on the spring but it sat in the Maf correctly. It may have dislodged when installing it but due to the limited visibility I never would have known this, besides the car ran great for a while.
Old 03-25-2008, 10:25 PM
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Ben,

Thats it for resolution !
Old 03-25-2008, 10:37 PM
  #60  
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Still a nice unit for the price. The data aquisition systems I use at work sample at 8000hz per channel x 96 channels, but they cost $30k+. We NEVER record at less than 100Hz, even for temperatures.


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