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03-22-2008, 12:47 PM
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
Don't want to claim victory but after checking all my connections I went back to my Maf intake.
I repositioned my Intake pipe going into the Maf, after remembering the issue in the beginning that the car surged when it was in too far.
When the pipe from the S/C was in too far it drove the Maf nuts, I pulled, reconnected and checked and car seems fine now, but keeping my fingers crossed.
Did you ever check that amount of pipe inserted in the boot on yours? I believe it causes the air to be caveatted if not in correctly
.
I repositioned my Intake pipe going into the Maf, after remembering the issue in the beginning that the car surged when it was in too far.
When the pipe from the S/C was in too far it drove the Maf nuts, I pulled, reconnected and checked and car seems fine now, but keeping my fingers crossed.
Did you ever check that amount of pipe inserted in the boot on yours? I believe it causes the air to be caveatted if not in correctly
.
03-23-2008, 04:02 PM
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
I am getting a little frustrated trying to track down a skipping issue, now it includes a start-up and stalling issue.
The car seems to change the way it runs everyday.
Today cold start kept stalling until one min or so on feathering the gas.
After shifting, I take my foot off the accelerator and Rpm’s go to zero and stalls, not a very safe thing to do in traffic.
I removed the Lm-3 rake checked all the wires for shorts, replaced the chips with the Auto Auth to eliminate that as an issue. My A/F gauge seems to show rich most of the time while driving. Where can I look to next, I am getting mixed responses as to what the problem could be.
Does anyone have a loaner Maf for me to try, I need to research who rebuilds these and I know its time, but substitute testing is what I want to do for now.
The car seems to change the way it runs everyday.
Today cold start kept stalling until one min or so on feathering the gas.
After shifting, I take my foot off the accelerator and Rpm’s go to zero and stalls, not a very safe thing to do in traffic.
I removed the Lm-3 rake checked all the wires for shorts, replaced the chips with the Auto Auth to eliminate that as an issue. My A/F gauge seems to show rich most of the time while driving. Where can I look to next, I am getting mixed responses as to what the problem could be.
Does anyone have a loaner Maf for me to try, I need to research who rebuilds these and I know its time, but substitute testing is what I want to do for now.
03-23-2008, 04:25 PM
#22
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Do the 85-86 cars have throttle position sensors? If so, try checking that to see if its within spec. It sounds like a problem I had with another brand of car. Everything pointed to the TPS but it ended up being a shorted fuel injector wiring harness. I know I just contradicted myself but its what I'm good at. 
03-23-2008, 05:33 PM
#23
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hi Shawn
No Tps just closed and Wot which have both been tested, with all new Injectors and new connectors. I just need to sub a Maf to put this to bed or continue my journey to insanity.
No Tps just closed and Wot which have both been tested, with all new Injectors and new connectors. I just need to sub a Maf to put this to bed or continue my journey to insanity.
03-23-2008, 06:56 PM
#24
Race Car
Thread Starter
I found one post on this site for Maf repairs any other recommendations?
Growing and innovating since 1990
Injection Labs was founded in 1990 in Boulder, Colorado, as a remanufacturer of fuel injection components. High demand for its flagship product, the Bosch Air Mass Meter, resulted in the move to a larger facility in Gardnerville, Nevada, three years later.
Growing and innovating since 1990
Injection Labs was founded in 1990 in Boulder, Colorado, as a remanufacturer of fuel injection components. High demand for its flagship product, the Bosch Air Mass Meter, resulted in the move to a larger facility in Gardnerville, Nevada, three years later.
03-23-2008, 11:21 PM
#25
Rocket Pilot
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Tampa, dont waste your money on a new MAF ,BTDT. on this same issue. One thing that helped me a lot was replacing that bosch plastic BOV with a high quality Greddy unit that you can adjust. This has eliminated the off the revs stalling. In fact I am using tandem units adjusted for big boost so they simultaniously blow off just a little as to not cause that stalling. You can do it with just one though.
Kevin
Kevin
03-23-2008, 11:31 PM
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
After a couple of Wot car barely made it home skipping, surging black smoke A/f shows full rich. I disconnected the Maf smoke went away idle fluctuates a bit and of course wont go over 2K but was able to drive it onto the lift.
Bad MAF?
Bad MAF?
03-23-2008, 11:43 PM
#29
Rocket Pilot
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Or John will send you a Maf to try(with deposit). The bov will not hold open unless it is ruptured. The BOV is a crucial part of how your car will run. A greddy or Vortech unit is much much better.