I do belive thats what its called, the one that hooks to bottom of air box?

 

or the top of the intake on S4's

Its just another sensor in the LH system. If you remove it the car will still run, but its now missing that bit of information that was deemed necessary by someone smarter then me for proper running and most likely emissions compliance.

Why exactly do you ask? Is yours missing or something? I dont think it would kill the engine but i still think you should fix it.

 

What did you break? There's no other reason for asking such a question.

 

Well this is coming from a guy that has "THE JERK" as his avatar. Avatar of course being "an electronic image that represents and is manipulated by a computer user"

And I just noticed his credo seems to be "oh **** what was that? what broke now?"

This then seems to be a line of question consistent with our OP.

 

without the IAT sensor the engine cannot calculate the appropriate AFR for the engine as it cannot go just off the engine temp.

Car will still run, though I would not consider it safe as it could cause really lean or right running.

 

If your intake Temp rises "I believe above 125 Degrees" it sends a signal to the LH and retards the timing. This helps to protect your motor from a lean condition, leave it alone.

 

LOL, no nothings wrong I just wondered because it always runs fine when its disconnected while Im under the hood. I ask because its an option for the intake R&R kits. I wish I lived in Texas.... you guys are always having all the fun.

 

Its one of many little things in a 928 that can easily go wrong, but the car will still run fairly well....but like the hall sender you will loose lots of HP from it!

 

+1 on retards the timing when a certain temp is reached. I only know this from reading Porkens stuff on modifying the timings using tricks.

 

According to Ken's information, it retards timing 3 degrees when inlet temp is greater than 122 degrees F. You can replace it with a 5K resistor between the leads and it will simulate a temp less than 122 degrees, and will not get any retarding of timing. Just unplugging will also retard timing.

 

The intake switch turns on the fans if the intake is hot. LH2.2 engines have them too, but neither LH2.2 or 2.3 have an air temp input to the LH fuel injection brain. The MAF supplies all the LH air data.

The TempI sensor in the airbox on LH2.2 is only for the EZ-F ignition brain as Glen and RngTrtl said. It retards 3° if unplugged, shorted, or the temp is over ~122°F, at high load (low vacuum), or the WOT switch is on.

Mike's car likely has other problems, and can't feel the retard. If otherwise properly tuned, you can see the drop on the dyno, and feel it in traffic, as it's pretty easy to reach the intake temp while sitting (especially without a radiator cover ).

I have a knock sensor/light installed so I have removed the TempI, and back off the throttle if I get an amber(!) or red(!!!) light.

 

whenever i say LH its EZ-K whenever i say EZK-its LH, dammit, i will just say ECU from now on

 

EZ-K doesn't have an air temp input, it gets air data from the LH.

It still has a coolant temp input, though.

 

OT:

Ken, do you think that neoprene would have a similiar benefit to air intake tubes for those of us without GTS tubes? I have ducting as my tubes and really like the look, but wouldnt mind creating a sleeve out of neoprene if it can also insulate the intake air from heat soak from the engine. I love your radcov'r idea after Roger Tyson pointed it out to me the other day. Was curious though if the intake tubes could benefit from the same type of insulation.

 

Airtemp sensor (temp 1) goes direct to pin 22 of EZ-F.