The Official "Ask Your Novice 928 Questions Here" Thread.
03-15-2008 | 11:57 PM
#136
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
03-16-2008 | 12:57 AM
#139
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 2
From: Not close enough to VIR.
Brian, pull the CE panel and look for a cooked relay ground. IIRC horn and fog are next to each other. I'm not sure about the others. If you don't have wiring diagrams, PM me your email address and I'll send them.
03-16-2008 | 09:20 PM
#142
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: '85 32v 5spd LSD - Vancouver, Canada
A2: You can replace the 7" lights with the 8" S4 lamps. The US S4 has a H5/9005 bulb that uses a different electrical connector, and also has the typical US 'yellow blob' beam pattern. Look instead for a set of H4/9004 "euro spec" or E-code assemblies from a non-US car. They should be standard in Canada cars anyway. The 9004 bulb requires no connector change.
A3: It's likely a mechanical issue in the speedo head in the pod. The speedo uses an electrical pulse sender at the side of the gearbox in the rear, a wired connection from there to the speedo head. A servomotor in the head drives the odometer and speedo. The odo gear is a notorious failure item. The speedo 'lag' may be something as simple as old tired/cold/gel'd grease in the head. There are speedo shops that can fix this for you. Hollywood Speedometer nearby me in California does ship-in work if you can't find a qualified place local to you in Ab.
Someone with more experience with Q1 will need to chime in on that rub-strip question.
A3: It's likely a mechanical issue in the speedo head in the pod. The speedo uses an electrical pulse sender at the side of the gearbox in the rear, a wired connection from there to the speedo head. A servomotor in the head drives the odometer and speedo. The odo gear is a notorious failure item. The speedo 'lag' may be something as simple as old tired/cold/gel'd grease in the head. There are speedo shops that can fix this for you. Hollywood Speedometer nearby me in California does ship-in work if you can't find a qualified place local to you in Ab.
Someone with more experience with Q1 will need to chime in on that rub-strip question.
03-16-2008 | 09:28 PM
#143
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: '85 32v 5spd LSD - Vancouver, Canada
to fix the rub strip , you will need , PB blaster,wax and grease remover, a helper, thin mechanics wire and some blue tape.
Put the blue tape on the outside edges of the strip against the paint , (2 layers are better than one), get a heat gun and with a thin piece of mechanics wire tie off the ends of the wire around some long sockets so you can grab the wire and pull it between the door skin and the rub strip.(dont try to pull the moulding away from the door you will bend the inside metal part of the strip and it will no longer fit)
Now Spray the whole strip with PB blaster after putting on the blue tape, feed the wire under the end of the trim strip, and remove any hold down hardware (there might be 2 nutted fasteners under the door rubber seal) You have to dig the rubber out to find them. the helper holds one end of the strip and runs the heat gun around in front of the wire, you pull the wire along the door and this will smoothly disengage the rubber sided tape without damaging the metal in the rub strip, and if you go slow the door paint should have no sign of the wire (THe PB helps the wire slide along). To install first scrape all of the old double sided tape off, this will take about an hour you can use the PB blaster with the strip placed on a flat surface with a towel under it.
Make sure to get the 3M double sided tape thats thick enough they make different thicknesses and if you dont have the thick er stuff the moulding will fall off in short order.
You may have to lay 2 strips of tape next to each other to get the correct width. Use the heat gun to heat the rubber before laying on the new tape, clean the rubber strip and the door with wax and grease remover before refitting the moulding.
To make it line up close the door and run a piece of blue tape under each end of the fender and quarter mouldings this will give you a straight line to lay the strip back on. Use the heat gun on the door to warm things up , you will only have one chance so test fitting is a good idea, once this is fitted heat the moulding with the heat gun and usisng a soft wrag apply pressure and hold the moulding to the door for about 30 seconds in each area, its also a good idea to park the car in the sun this will help the tape cure, dont let it get wet for 3 days
Put the blue tape on the outside edges of the strip against the paint , (2 layers are better than one), get a heat gun and with a thin piece of mechanics wire tie off the ends of the wire around some long sockets so you can grab the wire and pull it between the door skin and the rub strip.(dont try to pull the moulding away from the door you will bend the inside metal part of the strip and it will no longer fit)
Now Spray the whole strip with PB blaster after putting on the blue tape, feed the wire under the end of the trim strip, and remove any hold down hardware (there might be 2 nutted fasteners under the door rubber seal) You have to dig the rubber out to find them. the helper holds one end of the strip and runs the heat gun around in front of the wire, you pull the wire along the door and this will smoothly disengage the rubber sided tape without damaging the metal in the rub strip, and if you go slow the door paint should have no sign of the wire (THe PB helps the wire slide along). To install first scrape all of the old double sided tape off, this will take about an hour you can use the PB blaster with the strip placed on a flat surface with a towel under it.
Make sure to get the 3M double sided tape thats thick enough they make different thicknesses and if you dont have the thick er stuff the moulding will fall off in short order.
You may have to lay 2 strips of tape next to each other to get the correct width. Use the heat gun to heat the rubber before laying on the new tape, clean the rubber strip and the door with wax and grease remover before refitting the moulding.
To make it line up close the door and run a piece of blue tape under each end of the fender and quarter mouldings this will give you a straight line to lay the strip back on. Use the heat gun on the door to warm things up , you will only have one chance so test fitting is a good idea, once this is fitted heat the moulding with the heat gun and usisng a soft wrag apply pressure and hold the moulding to the door for about 30 seconds in each area, its also a good idea to park the car in the sun this will help the tape cure, dont let it get wet for 3 days
03-17-2008 | 07:02 AM
#144
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Here's one for you all:
Why call these cars "sharks"? You know, of course, that's the term for the ugliest years of the Corvette, the 68-82 models, named after the Mako Shark concept car of the late 60s.
And I'm a Sting Ray owner
Why call these cars "sharks"? You know, of course, that's the term for the ugliest years of the Corvette, the 68-82 models, named after the Mako Shark concept car of the late 60s.
And I'm a Sting Ray owner
03-17-2008 | 11:08 AM
#145
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
From: Clarkston Mi
Compression test
Intake R&R
Vacuum lines
Fuel lines
sensors (temp I, temp II, Maf, throttle position switch, crank sensor)
Intake boots
75° thermistat
Pre-boost dyno (to make sure your engine is putting good power stock and so you know how much your boost has added.)
There is more but it depends on how crazy you want to get with boost.
Intake R&R
Vacuum lines
Fuel lines
sensors (temp I, temp II, Maf, throttle position switch, crank sensor)
Intake boots
75° thermistat
Pre-boost dyno (to make sure your engine is putting good power stock and so you know how much your boost has added.)
There is more but it depends on how crazy you want to get with boost.
03-17-2008 | 01:36 PM
#147
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 1
From: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
Mine will be = Owners life + the estate sale time.
IF you can get my son and daughter to sell.
Normal conversation....
Daughter - "I get the 86.5"
Son - "Fine, I'll take the Euro's"
Mom - "Good luck, he'll probably live forever
"
IF you can get my son and daughter to sell.
Normal conversation....
Daughter - "I get the 86.5"
Son - "Fine, I'll take the Euro's"
Mom - "Good luck, he'll probably live forever
"
03-28-2008 | 05:53 PM
#148
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 660
Likes: 7
From: Great Falls, VA
What is the "factory suggested" tire pressure for the S2? Would that change once a new set of wheels are put on? How much more/less air should be put in for "aggressive fun runs"?
You said basic was allowed!!! So, I complied a few all at once!
You said basic was allowed!!! So, I complied a few all at once!
03-28-2008 | 05:57 PM
#149
Sharkaholic
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From: Rochester, WA
IIRC it is listed on the inside of the fuel door.
