Makes sense. And off they come them cams.

 

Tuomo--

The cams are kinda brittle and will break if they are not supported well as they are removed. The factory has a fancy too for this, and IIRC there are some home-brew solutions you can try. Beg/borrow/buy a set of the factory pieces-- cheaper than any new cams.

 

Thanks for the tip. I haven't taken the cams off yet, I've just been staring at the whole thing trying to figure out the strategy. The best strategy may be to get those tools. Are you talking about the special tool #928 shown in the workshop manual on page 15-119?

 

I have been told my more than one that you do not need those tools, I wonder how many cams have stress cracks just waiting to become a broken cam out there.

I agree with the Doc , buy the factory tools.

When are you going to be doing yours?

If I am done with mine, I may be able to help you out.

The other Greg

 

What model year brakes are the same as a 1982 Comp Package car? I'm going to be replacing the discs, and looking for calipers to rebuild, want to see what parts I can find. I know I could look to go to S4 and up brakes, but that's too expensive for my blood right now. so would 83+ "S" brakes be a direct swap? Were the 81 and older brakes not as good? Thanks for the help.

 

1982 Competition Package brakes _are_ S brakes. Just get the parts for the '83 brakes and you'll be fine. Well, unless you're swapping brake hoses as some of those use a banjo fitting and some don't. The pads and hardware are the same.

 

Building your own set of tools is simple. I have a link to someone's setup in my "still overheating" thread. I made my own and they worked great.

Newbie question: why does my car always take up so much space when it is taken apart? Will everything really fit back in there??

 

Glen,
Good to see you posting. Hope all is well.


Question: Is the voltage supply to the fuel pump variable? Increased voltage with throttle load?

 

Hi Jim. Doing well, just busy. Fired up the car last weekend and that block is still purring. Hope you're doing well and extend my greetings and thanks to your Dad.

The pump gets the straight voltage with no feedback loop.

And to Fraggle's question: No. It will all not go back. You will have parts left over afterwards and you won't recognize them.

 

I'm pulling everything I might need from my TBF block, but don't have the bit to undo the flywheel. What size XZN is it that I need?

 

12mm

That's called a "triple square" hereabouts. "XZN" does sound cooler.

 

How do I remove the camshaft drive hub? Part 928.105.459.00? Am I too much of a whimp when I am afraid to just try to pull it out?

 

The workshop manual is, as usual, extremely helpful:

"7. Unscrew camshaft bolt and take sprocket, drive hub and woodruff key off of exhaust camshaft."

Ok, so how do I take of the drive hub?

World has progressed over the last 25 years. If your read the Infiniti M35/45 workshop manual, it is, how would I say, somewhat more verbose.

 

Tuomo-

They should come right off the nose of the cam easily. Are both of yours stuck in place? Maybe a little overnight Kroil soak and a gentle persuasion with a 3-ear gear puller? (Cams are brittle, take it easy...) Is the woodruff key on the camshaft skewed somehow so the hub can't slide forward? Maybe you could tap the key back/down a bit?

 

Rob --

It looks to me that the woodruff key is intact.

I've tapped the hubs a couple of times with a long socket over the cam.

I can pull it out with a gear puller, but just wanted to make sure I don't break it because I've missed some locking mechanism.

One of the reasons why they might be stuck is that this engine burned down because of the bursted fuel line (or insurance fraud!).

Interestingly, one of the sides was missing the rotor trim, part #928.105.460.01.