mark kibort

wow, lots of things going the wrong way.

make sure fuel reg vacuum lines are actuated by the bottom side of the TB. so they show vacuum under idle.

also, make sure the vacuum advance is on the right vacuum line too.

bad plugs, bad distributor cap, injector clogged?
weak fuel pressure, bad fuel regulator, and last, possibly a bad AFM. do the voltage check and see what you got. I forgot the terminals , but tap in to the afm and get a voltage. should be 4.5v closed and 8v at wide open. (easy to check) if all that is checked, it may be a bad ECU.

MK

KBlair

Hey VU if your ECU turns out to be bad you might want to jump on the Megasquirt wagon with James and myself. They have some more PCB boards in now so we are talking less than $150 in parts for a full programmable ECU. Plus you get to convert your L-jet from AFM to a MAP sensor, any you can "chip" your car.

/puts on flame-retardant suit/

Just a thought

ViribusUnits

I'm going to check the fuel pressure. I wounder if I can get a adjustable regulater and dampaner instead of two new regs.

I just re did the vacume system, and I know their right. The pressure regulater has 20+ "Hg on it at idle, the distributer, none. So, thats working right.

I've got new plugs, new cap, good wires, good rotor, good coil.

Now that I've got more information, I'm betting something isn't right with the fuel pressure regs. I'm going to get a pressure gauge and see what I can do.

If it is the ECU, I'm not sure what I'll do. I don't want to go for the mega-squirt. I've got no experence putting electrics together, plus I'm not too found of the idea of a MAP system. I'd rather have a Air Flow Controled system, but I'll take what I can get. The problem is I'm not sure I can put it together, expecaly not with a AFC modification.

Normy

VU-

I'm not sure who's more deserving of a beer based upon his troubles with his car- you or Struthers!

-I can relate. I've been through hell trying to get my '85 to stop missing...I think I've finally found it. Bad gas...

Today I flew to my home in Orlando from my girlfriend's house in Brussels [yes, that's right...Belgium. 4600 miles. And you thought YOUR commute to the honey was ardous!] and encountered a shark that had sat for exactly 30 days. I started it up, and the garage was filled with nasty smoke that smelled like turpentine, the "KUHL" light came on [My S2's dash is in German], and to add insult to injury, the Duracell in the garage door opener decided to take a holiday in Ibiza.

Well, it ran well enough after I added distilled water. Curiously, and OMINOUSLY... I have a tiny spot of green fluid on the Wal-Mart "Battleship Grey" garage floor. I sometimes suspect my car is gay - there's pretty much a rainbow of colors on the garage floor from the various leaks!

Anyway...my advice would be to do what I did in January- after checking everything from stem to stern based upon recommendations from the MANUALS and Rennlist, and still being unable to figure the thing out myself....I took it to a good Porsche shop and had them hook up their diagnostic computer and let them tell me what they thought the problem was. Now, not every mechanic fixes odd problems on the first try, but they can certainly be counted on to tell you if individual components check out.

Sometimes it is best to go to the doctor-

Normy!
'85 S2 5 Speed

ViribusUnits

Well, you have a heck of a drive!!!! I keep haveing a nightmare where I graduate, the stock market plumets, and I end up with a job in Northern Sibera, or something. I figure your almost there! Keep the romance alive, it'll all work out, somehow, sometime...

Well, Struther can have the beer, I don't drink. Too many in my family have had problems with the drink. Plus, I'm not pirticulary found of the taste. I tryed the harder stuff once, ran out of money before I got a buz, go figure. I only had 8 dollars.

All I want is a solution, to my problem!

Btw, what was wrong with your car?

I don't trust two of the three places in Houston to get it fixed. I can't stand the dealership, Momentium, and one of the recomended shops fed me an intersting (not realy) line about there being diffrent upper control arms, with the same part number. And the cost of said arms was pretty awful. Unforchantly for them, I have a copy of the service mannual, and called one of the big three. When I asked for the casting number, price, and interchangeability of an 83's control arm, the guy in CA laughed in my ear. I've only breifly talked to the other privet shop, and if I have any work, I'm going there, to try them out. Unforchantly, I don't realy like the price of labor, but...

Anyways, it's my car, I'm gonna fix it, come he** or high water.. And if I don't, I'll get a Phd in the process.

Danno

"Idle switch has nothing to do with idle mixture, only off throttle fuel supply."

Uhhh, isn't idle considered off-throttle? Anyway, the click in the idle-switch causes the computer to select a completely different fuel-map in the chips. The idle fuel-map has only 5-cells and goes up to 1920rpm.

"The idle hunts all the time, and is much worse with the sensor disconnected. I tryed raiseing the idle with the sensor disconnected, she hunts a bit like that too."

This is typically caused by a vacuum leak after the throttle-body.

mark kibort

danno, is throttle release, to be more clear. all fuel is cut off, until the rpms reach a lower area, then it goes back to a default fuel map, and the off idle switch is ingnored. (ecu takes over)

MK

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>"Idle switch has nothing to do with idle mixture, only off throttle fuel supply."

Uhhh, isn't idle considered off-throttle? Anyway, the click in the idle-switch causes the computer to select a completely different fuel-map in the chips. The idle fuel-map has only 5-cells and goes up to 1920rpm.

"The idle hunts all the time, and is much worse with the sensor disconnected. I tryed raiseing the idle with the sensor disconnected, she hunts a bit like that too."

This is typically caused by a vacuum leak after the throttle-body.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">

Danno

Uhhh, the ECU is always in control; you'll notice that the spark-plugs are still fired when you've released the throttle and idle-switch is clicked on. Yes it does both functions. Above 1920rpm, it signals the fuel cut-off (which the ECU controls BTW) and below that, it selects the idle map on the chips.

You ever notice that by monitoring the exhaust with a wideband O2 and disconnecting the idle-switch (not rotating the TPS) while maintaining the same RPM yields different air-fuel ratios? On the U.S. cars, this was a concession to emissions having a leaner idle-map. Yet the partial-throttle maps are the same as the Australia, Canada and Japan.