Prepping front bumbper cover for paint?
#1
Prepping front bumbper cover for paint?
I finally picked up the 2 used front bumper cover I bought about a month ago. The red one is really faded but is the best shape of the two. The camoflage one (from the movie Leonard Part 6) is in pretty bad shape but not as bad as the one on my shark now. It has some waving in it.
So what's the best process to go about prepping this thing to be painted? It's an 83 so it's poly and not fiberglass.
Any ideas? I'll post pics of the camo one later.
So what's the best process to go about prepping this thing to be painted? It's an 83 so it's poly and not fiberglass.
Any ideas? I'll post pics of the camo one later.
#2
Kblair. Here you go.
1) Take some good wax/grease remover (something like PPG's DX330) to clean the current bumper. Reason for this is, you dont want to push any surface material, oils and such into the paint that is there. (Prep is 80% of a good paint job, to say the least)
2) Then use some 400 (wet with small amount of dish soap) and lightly sand in 45degree alternating patterns. Put a sponge behind it to follow the contours. (the soap will keep the paper clean). Never go up/down or left/right, as it will show the pattern under the paint. NEVER NEVER do the circular motion either.
3) Take it to a 600 next. Same process.
4) DX330 it again. (now ok to prime)
5) Depending on the color, get a primer/sealer as close to the color as possible. (light gray for lets say white, dark primer color for black..etc). I know on the poly you need a flex agent, but not sure of the amount. Typically the company website has a guidline for it.
6) Base/Clear paint (same deal with flex agent needed). NOTE: If you decide to prime it you need to paint within 24hours, or, you will have to wetsand the primer surface again.
7) Once its painted, you need to wetsand (yes again) but start with a 1200 and take it up to a 2000.
8) Buff it out (right angle polisher, low speed) with a 3m FinesseIt-II. (it will look like glass).
1) Take some good wax/grease remover (something like PPG's DX330) to clean the current bumper. Reason for this is, you dont want to push any surface material, oils and such into the paint that is there. (Prep is 80% of a good paint job, to say the least)
2) Then use some 400 (wet with small amount of dish soap) and lightly sand in 45degree alternating patterns. Put a sponge behind it to follow the contours. (the soap will keep the paper clean). Never go up/down or left/right, as it will show the pattern under the paint. NEVER NEVER do the circular motion either.
3) Take it to a 600 next. Same process.
4) DX330 it again. (now ok to prime)
5) Depending on the color, get a primer/sealer as close to the color as possible. (light gray for lets say white, dark primer color for black..etc). I know on the poly you need a flex agent, but not sure of the amount. Typically the company website has a guidline for it.
6) Base/Clear paint (same deal with flex agent needed). NOTE: If you decide to prime it you need to paint within 24hours, or, you will have to wetsand the primer surface again.
7) Once its painted, you need to wetsand (yes again) but start with a 1200 and take it up to a 2000.
8) Buff it out (right angle polisher, low speed) with a 3m FinesseIt-II. (it will look like glass).
#3
Hey! Glad you got your stuff - I got mine, too. I picked up the lights/bumper combo. Good people to deal with.
Hope you have fun with that cammo bumper cover. For some odd reason, I think that would be a cool thing to hang in the garage.
Good luck with the paint job.
Hope you have fun with that cammo bumper cover. For some odd reason, I think that would be a cool thing to hang in the garage.
Good luck with the paint job.
#4
hi
1. if there are any cracks (even hairline) in the bumper dig them out with a wizzy wheel further out then the crack appears.Fill with glass resin compound (this will shrink and contract in line with the original material)
2.primer
3. use 1500 paper (water and soap)
4. paint
5. As 3
6. laquer
7. as 3 and 5
8. buff it up using rubbing compound, T cut then polish
9. admire the results
Always remember the finish will only be good if it has been prepared well!
cheers Tim
84 s2 auto in U.K.
1. if there are any cracks (even hairline) in the bumper dig them out with a wizzy wheel further out then the crack appears.Fill with glass resin compound (this will shrink and contract in line with the original material)
2.primer
3. use 1500 paper (water and soap)
4. paint
5. As 3
6. laquer
7. as 3 and 5
8. buff it up using rubbing compound, T cut then polish
9. admire the results
Always remember the finish will only be good if it has been prepared well!
cheers Tim
84 s2 auto in U.K.
#5
On the subject of bumpers, what would be the best way to fill in a deep gouge in the process of refinishing. Some kind of flexible bondo or rubber filler? (From a wild 360 spin out and whack with a Fire Hydrant in the rear bumper on a damp morning at Deadmans Curve.)
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#11
Yeah, if any of you get answers about the best product to use for flexible plastic body parts, I would like to know... All I know for sure, is that fiberglass resin, and bondo, will not flex as much as the plastic bumpers, so over time, any repairs will crack, or worse case, break loose. I am sure the pros have some kind of flexible plastic filler. Something in between bondo and caulking... Something durable, but flexible, and sandable!
How do I know this?
I used bondo to fill up my front license plate holes. They are now cracking away fron the bumper, and trying to take some of the paint with them... I need a repaint on the front bumper anyhow, and I too, would like to redo the front bumper repairs, but use the right filler...
How do I know this?
I used bondo to fill up my front license plate holes. They are now cracking away fron the bumper, and trying to take some of the paint with them... I need a repaint on the front bumper anyhow, and I too, would like to redo the front bumper repairs, but use the right filler...
#12
I think I found what we may need to make any changes:
http://e46fanatics.com/features/feature.php?news_id=44
http://e46fanatics.com/features/feature.php?news_id=44
#13
I wonder if this would help us:
http://www.urethanesupply.com/identify.html
Maybe we are Polypropeline?
http://www.urethanesupply.com/identify.html
Maybe we are Polypropeline?
#14
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Porsche stated they are polyurethane ..... 928 Service information . To help prevent cracking and spider webs Porsche recommends removing the old paint prior to painting so that the paint is not too thick and both primer and paint need flexative added . Small tears can be "superglued" auto body shop suppliers have flexible filler for use on polyurethane .