Cam Cover Removal
09-09-2002 | 01:36 PM
#1
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: New York City
Cam Cover Removal
I have a small oil leak coming from the right Cylinder Head Cover seal.There seem to be no web sites addressing the steps involved in removing the fuel lines etc. to get access to the covers.
"Tony's Silver Bullet" website talks only of the difficulty in removing the hex bolts.
I just finished tensioning the T-Belt and wish to
replace the cover seals and end this oil leak which only occurs after the car has been idle for weeks.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Bad S4
87 S4
Blk/Blk
5-Speed
28K Miles
"Tony's Silver Bullet" website talks only of the difficulty in removing the hex bolts.
I just finished tensioning the T-Belt and wish to
replace the cover seals and end this oil leak which only occurs after the car has been idle for weeks.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks
Bad S4
87 S4
Blk/Blk
5-Speed
28K Miles
09-09-2002 | 02:47 PM
#4
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Spokane, WA
Unlucky its the worst one !!!
Remove engine xbar for better access, remove plug wires, air box & tubes.
Get under car and unbolt the air pump switch and the engine hoist bracket. Remove.
Follow the fuel line and there is a small u clip bolted to the intake, unbolt, this will allow for more movement of the tube. No need to remove.
Unbolt cam cover and lift out, you'll need to tilt towards the rear of the car as there is a long tube at the rear of the cam cover.
With cam cover removed, check cam blanking plugs (that they are there), cam end covers for leaking and the clean the chack valves.
Before refitting cam cover permanently try a dry run to make sure you have the knack.
Presume you have new gasket, rubber rings for the spark plug holes and 0-rings for the breathers.
Apply gasket sealent to the engine at the 4 corners and I applied it along the bottom edge, when refitting you will see why the dry runs are handy !!
Some of the bolts have washers, these are for the lower bolts to allow more torque to stop leaks, otherwise bolts bottom out.
Everything else is a direct revers od dis-assembly.
Hope ths helps.
Chris
Remove engine xbar for better access, remove plug wires, air box & tubes.
Get under car and unbolt the air pump switch and the engine hoist bracket. Remove.
Follow the fuel line and there is a small u clip bolted to the intake, unbolt, this will allow for more movement of the tube. No need to remove.
Unbolt cam cover and lift out, you'll need to tilt towards the rear of the car as there is a long tube at the rear of the cam cover.
With cam cover removed, check cam blanking plugs (that they are there), cam end covers for leaking and the clean the chack valves.
Before refitting cam cover permanently try a dry run to make sure you have the knack.
Presume you have new gasket, rubber rings for the spark plug holes and 0-rings for the breathers.
Apply gasket sealent to the engine at the 4 corners and I applied it along the bottom edge, when refitting you will see why the dry runs are handy !!
Some of the bolts have washers, these are for the lower bolts to allow more torque to stop leaks, otherwise bolts bottom out.
Everything else is a direct revers od dis-assembly.
Hope ths helps.
Chris
09-09-2002 | 04:49 PM
#6
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 1
From: Chicago
Your car may or may not have the washers on some of the bolts as mentioned above. There's some information which includes a service bulletin on valve cover sealing at: <a href="http://www.jageng.com/Shark%20Bit;%20Porsche%20928%20Notebook%20R%2012%2000.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com/Shark%20Bit;%20Porsche%20928%20Notebook%20R%2012%2000.pdf</a>
On my car there is a bolt holding a wiring harness clamp at the very back of the passenger side valve cover. That needed to come out to remove the valve cover. There was also another small bolt at the lower front section of the same valve cover, near the cam position sensor, that also needed to be removed before the valve cover would come off. It's a lot easier to just loosen the engine lift eyes than to completely remove them.
On my car there is a bolt holding a wiring harness clamp at the very back of the passenger side valve cover. That needed to come out to remove the valve cover. There was also another small bolt at the lower front section of the same valve cover, near the cam position sensor, that also needed to be removed before the valve cover would come off. It's a lot easier to just loosen the engine lift eyes than to completely remove them.
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09-09-2002 | 11:49 PM
#8
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From: Irving, TX
I used a cardboard box to keep the bolts and spacers organized so they could go back in the same holes. The bolts are different lengths.
I used some RTV sealant in the corners per the service bulletin. Local Porsche mechanic said not to use any other sealant or adhesive, just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry when installing cam cover gaskets. The reason is that eventually the adhesive or sealant can bubble up resulting in a leak. If your cam covers still have the original paint, they may look like mine underneath with bubbling, flaking paint.
I took the opportunity to have the cam covers and the intake manifold powder coated.
Also a good time to clean the oil check valves. See Tony H.'s site. Good luck!
I used some RTV sealant in the corners per the service bulletin. Local Porsche mechanic said not to use any other sealant or adhesive, just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry when installing cam cover gaskets. The reason is that eventually the adhesive or sealant can bubble up resulting in a leak. If your cam covers still have the original paint, they may look like mine underneath with bubbling, flaking paint.
I took the opportunity to have the cam covers and the intake manifold powder coated.
Also a good time to clean the oil check valves. See Tony H.'s site. Good luck!
