Auto tranny selector cable adjustment
02-22-2008, 02:44 AM
#16
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02-22-2008, 02:45 AM
#17
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Thanks Bill for posting the diagram. Can you confirm my translation of the instructions.
(i) (Move selector lever to N).
Does this mean: From under the car, manually move the lever (where the ball had is located), and count the clicks until you locate neutral.
(ii) (Pull ball socket off ball head on range selection lever.)
Makes sense!
(iii) (Set range selection lever on transmission to "N".)
Does this mean: Get in car, put your hand on transmission handle and select Neutral.
(iv) (Adjust ball socket)
Makes sense!
(i) (Move selector lever to N).
Does this mean: From under the car, manually move the lever (where the ball had is located), and count the clicks until you locate neutral.
(ii) (Pull ball socket off ball head on range selection lever.)
Makes sense!
(iii) (Set range selection lever on transmission to "N".)
Does this mean: Get in car, put your hand on transmission handle and select Neutral.
(iv) (Adjust ball socket)
Makes sense!
02-22-2008, 02:47 AM
#18
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Hopefully Keith will find that the socket does thread onto the cable end and can be turned, as you confirmed.
02-22-2008, 02:51 AM
#19
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A 10mm open end slipped between the socket and ball works well as a lever to pop it off too. The 4-speed tranny cable has a small locking pin slipped into small hole in the socket that must be removed first. I gather the 3-speed cable does not.
02-23-2008, 01:58 AM
#21
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OK...I'm back. I figured this out yesterday, but didn't finish the job until today. It was a BITCH, let me tell you. First off, Bill was right, there is a lock nut on the ball shaft. ...but that turned out to NOT be the issue. On the OB's, the cable comes over the TT and is clamped at the top of the tranny with a rubber grommet and 2 14mm fittings.
As it turns out, the cable comes out of the cable tube and is virtually a cable wrapped in a stretched spring. After that, it is attached to a rigid threaded piece that the ball connector is threaded too. So what had happened, was that where the cable comes out of the cable tube, there is (supposed to be) a rigid plastic tube that surrounds the cable to keep it from bending when pushing the selector switch into Reverse and Park. The plastic tube is fitted into the 14mm locking nut. Mine came out, so there was no longer any support.
Being that this piece and the fitting was mounted to the upper part of the tranny, it was a majorly slow and frustrating process to disassemble and assemble.
I got the fitting and the plastic tube out and had to figure out how to re-attach this thing. I first tried JB weld and the set up just laughed at it when I got it all back together. It just snapped. I pulled it apart again and this time I got out the heat gun and melted that sucker back into the fitting. So much so, that I had to drill the tube out and chase the thread to get all the melted plastic out. I will tell you this, that SOB ain't comin out again for years!
It was a long process for such a little thing. Getting the fitting back on was such a PITA as it is all in a tough to get to position allowing for a 6th of a turn with the wrench each twist.
Its done now though and works like a champ!
Pics of what I am talking about.
As it turns out, the cable comes out of the cable tube and is virtually a cable wrapped in a stretched spring. After that, it is attached to a rigid threaded piece that the ball connector is threaded too. So what had happened, was that where the cable comes out of the cable tube, there is (supposed to be) a rigid plastic tube that surrounds the cable to keep it from bending when pushing the selector switch into Reverse and Park. The plastic tube is fitted into the 14mm locking nut. Mine came out, so there was no longer any support.
Being that this piece and the fitting was mounted to the upper part of the tranny, it was a majorly slow and frustrating process to disassemble and assemble.
I got the fitting and the plastic tube out and had to figure out how to re-attach this thing. I first tried JB weld and the set up just laughed at it when I got it all back together. It just snapped. I pulled it apart again and this time I got out the heat gun and melted that sucker back into the fitting. So much so, that I had to drill the tube out and chase the thread to get all the melted plastic out. I will tell you this, that SOB ain't comin out again for years!
It was a long process for such a little thing. Getting the fitting back on was such a PITA as it is all in a tough to get to position allowing for a 6th of a turn with the wrench each twist.
Its done now though and works like a champ!
Pics of what I am talking about.
02-23-2008, 03:19 AM
#22
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Ah, good work, Keith. It make sense that the cable needs to be supported for push-back so it won't just bend. I'll have to look again to see how this is handled in the 4 speed. The cable is covered by a flexible rubber bellows, but I don't recall a rigid tube under it.
02-23-2008, 04:26 AM
#23
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Yea, my "bellows" was disintegrated. Any remaining pieces just fell off when I barely touched it. I guess I could/should find a replacement for it as it does keep out dirt, dust and moisture.
02-23-2008, 06:06 AM
#24
Team Owner
you can buy a replacment bellows PN is in the pet
